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Discussion Starter #1
I've had my airbag light on for about a month now, and it's starting to drive me a little crazy:banghead: I’ve been getting this

00588 - Airbag Igniter: Driver Side (N95)
32-00 - Resistance too High

When I did a search if found this thread
http://www.passatworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=197593&highlight=airbag+fault

Just like guy i can confirm the first to connections but not the 3rd, which is located behind the wheel somewhere. Anyone know exactly where this thing is? A picture perhaps? Or a more detailed description?

TIA
Ethan
 

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Sorry - it's been way too long since I've had the steering wheel off and the column cover removed.

But IIRC, you have to take the (steering) wheel off to remove the column cover? If I read Sharky's post correctly, the third connector is under the column cover. Hope this helps - if it confuses then ignore it, like I said it's been a long time.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Rusty said:
Sorry - it's been way too long since I've had the steering wheel off and the column cover removed.

But IIRC, you have to take the (steering) wheel off to remove the column cover? If I read Sharky's post correctly, the third connector is under the column cover. Hope this helps - if it confuses then ignore it, like I said it's been a long time.
Nope that helps. I'll look up one of the 3 spoke swaps how to's this weekend and look.

Anyone know what the clock spiring is or what it looks like so I can tell if it's F'ed if the wire is still connected?

Thanks!!
Ethan
 

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What you need is a long, thin Phillips screwdriver. It has to be long enough so that the handle doesn't hit the steering wheel so you can get it in the 2 screw holes that are parallel with the column. You have those 2 screws, the 2 from underneath, and the Torx bolt that is up above the tilt/telescope lever. Don't forget that one.

Take all those out, and take off the tilt lever handle, and you can pull the column trim without taking the wheel off.

The 3rd connector will be in the lower left corner of the column as you look at it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Sharky said:
What you need is a long, thin Phillips screwdriver. It has to be long enough so that the handle doesn't hit the steering wheel so you can get it in the 2 screw holes that are parallel with the column. You have those 2 screws, the 2 from underneath, and the Torx bolt that is up above the tilt/telescope lever. Don't forget that one.

Take all those out, and take off the tilt lever handle, and you can pull the column trim without taking the wheel off.

The 3rd connector will be in the lower left corner of the column as you look at it.
Thanks Sharky:bowdown: I'll take a look at that this weekend and report what i find:thumbup: In the event that my clock spring is messed up, how much am i looking at to fix it?

TIA
Ethan
 

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Well, assuming you can pull the steering wheel yourself, just the cost of the part. I don't know what they go for.
 

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Actually Turbo, I used to work for a company that made Clocksprings. Basically, you have a 2 piece round plastic housing, with a connector on each side. Then, connecting the 2 connectors (inside the round disc shaped plastic housing) is a flat ribbon cable or conductor). In the "old" days, contact between steering wheel switches and the wiring harness in the steering column was made by a spring loaded pin and a copper conducting ring, which would wear out. Nowadays, this "clockspring" mechanism takes the place of the old contact/ring setup and is much more reliable. Basically, as the steering wheel is turned, the "spring" (coiled flat ribbon conductor) winds and unwinds, and SHOULD have enough length so that there is always enough ribbon to allow the steering wheel to turn lock-to-lock without overtensioning the conductor inside. I don't know price, but it is a relatively simple device and SHOULD be accordingly low cost, BUT....(we are talking about VW parts here!)
;)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
gregu710 said:
Actually Turbo, I used to work for a company that made Clocksprings. Basically, you have a 2 piece round plastic housing, with a connector on each side. Then, connecting the 2 connectors (inside the round disc shaped plastic housing) is a flat ribbon cable or conductor). In the "old" days, contact between steering wheel switches and the wiring harness in the steering column was made by a spring loaded pin and a copper conducting ring, which would wear out. Nowadays, this "clockspring" mechanism takes the place of the old contact/ring setup and is much more reliable. Basically, as the steering wheel is turned, the "spring" (coiled flat ribbon conductor) winds and unwinds, and SHOULD have enough length so that there is always enough ribbon to allow the steering wheel to turn lock-to-lock without overtensioning the conductor inside. I don't know price, but it is a relatively simple device and SHOULD be accordingly low cost, BUT....(we are talking about VW parts here!)
;)
Thanks, good explination on of a sbject that's not been well covered:thumbup:
 

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Just be patient trying to remove the airbag when you replace the spring. You might get 1 side unclipped in 15 seconds and spend 15 minutes on the other side. The Haynes manual has a decent writeup on removal.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
PZ said:
Just be patient trying to remove the airbag when you replace the spring. You might get 1 side unclipped in 15 seconds and spend 15 minutes on the other side. The Haynes manual has a decent writeup on removal.
I've taken the airbag off several times now, And you speak the truth.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Alright, anyone got the part # for the clock spring? I just spend my night checking the 3rd connector, and the damn thing is won't go off (well it guess it went off for 5 min and then came back on.
 

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One thing to remember with clocksprings is to be sure that the front wheels are centered and the clockspring is securely mounted before the wheels are turned and the steering shaft rotates. I don't know about VW's but Chrysler products have had lots of problems with clocksprings that have gotten "backwound" on the assembly line and/or during maintenance and have failed prematurely. I don't think this is a tough job, but I would see if somebody could hook me up with the right page from the service manual before installing a new one just to see if there is anything in particular that needs to be done when installing...
 

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This post isn't helping the thread, but aren't airbag component failures *supposed* to be covered by the dealer for the lifetime of the car, hence the message on the visor mandated by the NHTSA? You'd think an important safety device like that would be, but then again, there is the entire ABS module debacle.
 

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luvmyb5,
just for the record, the ABS module is not a safety device. One would think so, but nope. According to agreements with the OEM's (FORD,GM, VW, etc....), since the manual brakes still function without ABS, the ABS Module is not considered a "Safety Item". I know this since I work for a company that makes ABS Systems (including VW)
 

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gregu710 said:
luvmyb5,
just for the record, the ABS module is not a safety device. One would think so, but nope. According to agreements with the OEM's (FORD,GM, VW, etc....), since the manual brakes still function without ABS, the ABS Module is not considered a "Safety Item". I know this since I work for a company that makes ABS Systems (including VW)
ABS is bullshit anyway, but my point is that malfunctions of parts of something that can blow off your freakin head should be warrantied for the life of the vehicle, otherwise don't put it in a car. My friend's Camry's airbag abraded his face, but at least he didn't get a high level of whiplash or a broken vertebra.
 

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Don't know if I'd go so far as to say ABS is BS, since I've seen it in action (in Germany with someone else driving way to fast around corner on a wet road), especially with Electronic Stability Control, and it pulled our asses out of the fire (rear end started going WAY wide in the Golf TDI we were in, and without the guy driving doing any countersteering or anything like that, the rear brakes were applied by the ABS/ESC, and the rear end pulled right back into line!). BUT, there are situations where it isn't effective and it, just like anything else, was never touted as a cure-all for poor driving habits.
 

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Airbag/ABS

I am confused. This started as an airbag light and now the thread is talking about brakes (ABS). Am I missing something. Being a newbie I might just not understanding.

TIA
 

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"I am confused. This started as an airbag light and now the thread is talking about brakes "

Nope, just a slight drift off course...
:)
 
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