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Discussion Starter #1
well im not sure if any of you guys have read my many recent rambling posts, but im in the process of changing the alternator on my '99 V6 passat. im not sure what those crazy germans were thinking but working on a chevy is much easier. anyway, here are some pics for you all to enjoy.

the only view of my car that looks nice at the moment~


from the passenger side~


drivers side~


the alternator is no longer bolted down, but just sort of 'stuck' in there~


anyone know what size torx wrench i need to remove these screws? T40 maybe?


any advice would be great!! its starting to rain outside, so i guess im down for the day... always got tomorrow right??
 

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PLEASE tell me you aren't underneath that car supported only by jacks!
At a bare minimum use 2 jack stands - they aren't that expensive (20.00?).
Lowes sells "Kobalt" brand Torx set - I don't remember how much though.
T15, T20, T25, T27, T30, T40, T45, and T50.
They also sell a set of Metric Hex sockets.
Be safe.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
PLEASE tell me you aren't underneath that car supported only by jacks!
At a bare minimum use 2 jack stands - they aren't that expensive (20.00?).
Lowes sells "Kobalt" brand Torx set - I don't remember how much though.
T15, T20, T25, T27, T30, T40, T45, and T50.
They also sell a set of Metric Hex sockets.
Be safe.
yes, the car was only supported by jacks... i guess i should invest in some stands... thanks for being concerned.
 

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Please invest in (or borrow) some stands. We don't want to read about you being crushed under your fine looking auto.
 

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OMG, get that car on stands. Have you ever jacked up a car that fell without wheels? Trust me it ain't easy and luckily I didn't have to do it with a screaming person underneath.

Once you get the front in service positoin, the altenator will come out easily. Service position means unbolting the frame around the radiator. There's a couple screws on top, a couple on the sides and some through the bumper. You should support it with long metric bolts (can't remember the size) in the bumper holes or long 1/4 inch rods.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
ok guys! ill get some stands!!
really its nice to know that people here are concerned with safety as well as getting cars in good running shape.
ive got everything but the 8 bolts (4 on each side) off where i would use the rod to slide the front assembly foward. those things are TIGHT!!! i might have to hit em with some WD40 or something like that.
thanks for the suggestions and any more are still welcome.
you guys rock!
 

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:nervous: i got scared for you when i saw those jacks holding up that heavy as car ,..
buy them from WAL mart use them and then return the in 90 days for a full refund but make sure you dont scratch them....thats how i did it

 

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Discussion Starter #10
BTW, did you know that the brush/diode assembly is replaceable?
no i didnt know that... can any alternator shop do that or do i have to go to a VW guy? im guessing that would be cheaper than buying a refurbished one @ 170 bux. i dont even want to think about how much a new one would cost.
 

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:nervous: i got scared for you when i saw those jacks holding up that heavy as car ,..
buy them from WAL mart use them and then return the in 90 days for a full refund but make sure you dont scratch them....thats how i did it

There are 2 VERY wrong things here.
1) If you turn the jack stands the other way you won't mess up the pinch welds at the jack points
2) you NEVER jack up the rear of a torsion beam VW by the beam itself. you'll damage the beam.
 

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no i didnt know that... can any alternator shop do that or do i have to go to a VW guy? im guessing that would be cheaper than buying a refurbished one @ 170 bux. i dont even want to think about how much a new one would cost.
You should be able to do it yourself. Assuming that the windings and bearings are ok, just change out the diode/brushes. Here's the part:

http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=d0khhr454isd03apubmdij45&partnumber= 1197311530
 

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If you take the alternator to an auto electric shop they will be able to test it for you for a small fee. If its the regulator they will be replace it and test that it works.

While it will be cheaper to just get the regulator and install it yourself I do not like taking the chance that it may not work. It's worth the little extra money to know you only need to do this once on a car like this.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
well the good news is we finally figured out how to get the front end into 'service position' and the alternator slid right out. so i got a new one on the way. should be here about 4 oclock and its got a lifetime warranty. i just hope i can get it all back together.
one other question, when my alternator went out so did my brake lites & turn signals. well, the turn signals wok if i manually click them off and on but the 2 side brake lites are out. its not the bulb or the fuse, what should i check next? relays? can anyone direct me to a write up on doing this?
thanks for the help guys.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
well back to bad news... that alternator ordered was the wrong one. the right one this shop could order is a Bosch that runs about 280 $$
found a good shop that can rebuild mine for $150. so, looks like thats the plan.
 

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well the good news is we finally figured out how to get the front end into 'service position' and the alternator slid right out. so i got a new one on the way. should be here about 4 oclock and its got a lifetime warranty. i just hope i can get it all back together.
one other question, when my alternator went out so did my brake lites & turn signals. well, the turn signals wok if i manually click them off and on but the 2 side brake lites are out. its not the bulb or the fuse, what should i check next? relays? can anyone direct me to a write up on doing this?
thanks for the help guys.
your turn signals are an easy fix, just replace the hazard switch.
 

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OMG, get that car on stands. Have you ever jacked up a car that fell without wheels? Trust me it ain't easy and luckily I didn't have to do it with a screaming person underneath.

Once you get the front in service positoin, the altenator will come out easily. Service position means unbolting the frame around the radiator. There's a couple screws on top, a couple on the sides and some through the bumper. You should support it with long metric bolts (can't remember the size) in the bumper holes or long 1/4 inch rods.
Hmm. You know, I bought a set of wheel ramps to use when I need to get under my car because I didn't want the car to fall on me, but I never thought about what it would be like to have to be the guy rescuing someone else from underneath a fallen car. I think that might even be more traumatic.
 
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