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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Like many B5.5 wagon owners in the U.S. and Canada, VW's tailgate "logic" (if you can call it that....) drove me bonkers - having the tailgate always "locked" was, well, beyond annoying.
So, I set out on a research project - and, I found out how to change it!
With these changes, you can have a B5.5 (NAR) tailgate that is unlocked when the rear doors are unlocked, and also that can actually be opened from the remote (as well as the 'trunk' button on the driver's door.) :thumbup:

Disclaimer and credit: I just pieced all of this together, and came up with the mechanical solution to get the gate to clear the latch on its own. Others found the necessary bits here:
http://www.passatworld.com/forums/b5-garage/346503-yet-another-ccm-issue-thread-now-more-trunk-release-action.html
and here: TDIClub Forums - View Single Post - Additional CCM coding and configurations with VDS Pro

Tools needed:
-- Laptop with a serial port. Doesn't need to have a hard drive (or even an OS) on it.
-- VAG-KKL serial-to-OBD cable. Must be a 'has chip' cable (will have a status LED on it.)
-- USB flash drive, that's set up to boot into DOS. I used a program called Rufus ( Rufus - Create bootable USB drives the easy way ) to create a bootable flash drive.
-- a copy of VDS-PRO, or EasyCCM, to do the coding changes in the CCM. You'll place each of these on the flash drive (optionally in their own folders - but, not required.)

Disclaimer
I am not responsible if you irreparably bork your CCM. ;)

Recommended (but not required): Use EasyCCM to back up your current CCM configuration, before you start making changes.
ALWAYS write down the value of a byte before you make changes to it.

Explanation of syntax on configuration bits & bytes: a byte is composed of 8 bits, those bits are numbered 0-7 and from right to left, like this: 76543210. Three bytes make a word, and you will always need to change the same bit in all three bytes of a word (group of three memory addresses.)
You can use any of a number of online tools to convert decimal values (what VDS-PRO reads & write) into binary (so you can change the proper bits.)
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Coding changes, part 1. Tailgate 'unlocked' when the rear doors are unlocked.
Addresses 04370-04372, change value of bit 1 to 1 (my old value was 41, new value 105)
Addresses 04352-04354, change value of bit 6 to 1 (my old value was 6, new value 4)

Side effect: If the vehicle is locked, and you release the tailgate via the same old two-step (key button then tailgate pad), the car will take two minutes to re-arm the alarm after you close the tailgate. No other weirdness has been observed.
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Coding changes, part 2. Tailgate release (actually opening it!) from the key remote, and from LF door switch.
Addresses 04361-04363, change value of bit 1 to 0
Addresses 04367-04369, change value of bit 1 to 0

No side effects found - and, this also corrected the side effect of the changes in part 1. :)

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Mechanical changes:
No changes to the gate lock are necessary. But, the gate itself is quite heavy, and needs a little help to clear the latch when you open it remotely. These aren't quite a straight swap, as the Audi parts that I found are slightly smaller than the VW pieces. But, the Audi bits do fit inside the VW bits - so, I grafted the two together!

First up, the new parts. Audi 4F5-827-249-B (stop buffer with ejector.)


And, your existing tailgate stops:


Old stops disassembled. The rubber buffer just pops off, and then the stop can be screwed into and thru the base - it's a left-hand thread.


You'll need to grind the top two threads out of the old stopper base, so that the Audi part will fit inside of it, as shown. A Dremel, of course (with a rotary file, a router bit, or even a drywall-cutter bit) works great for this stuff:


Stacked together. Note that the Audi part covers the mounting holes in the old base:


Quick work with a grinder makes those go away:


Once you're sure that they fit, and you'll be able to push the rivet pins back in, you can glue them together. I used urethane, because it's incredibly strong, and maintains a little flexibility. In other words, it won't crack or break apart.
Glue applied (you don't need a lot!), and new assembly clamped together overnight for the glue to cure:


Most likely, you'll find that you'll screw the new stop all the way in, as it's a bit taller than the original was. Start at that point, make sure that the gate opens & closes correctly, maybe need to turn them out a click or three. That done, pop the ejectors out - insert a #2 Phillips screwdriver, and turn the ejector ~1/4 turn left.
Enjoy a gate that pops itself clear of the latch.

Finished product, installed:



There also might be a BMW part that's a direct replacement - I need to make a couple of measurements (and probably a test fit) sometime; will update this post again when that happens.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Revisiting the gate ejector stops. I present to you, ejector stops, version 2! These have a little more 'uumph' to them - and, the spring pressure is adjustable, too!

Just like before, you'll need two of these. BMW 51-24-7-179-237 (trunk lid stop, E93.)




Still need to grind out the inside of the old stop bases - only difference is that the BMW parts are a tiny bit larger in diameter, and they're deeper - so, more plastic to remove. Pic not needed here.

Still need to remove the mounting tabs:




New hybrid stops assembled, and a little finish filing (optional) done:



The Bimmer parts are, as mentioned earlier, significantly deeper on their backside. As you can see, they aren't going to fit in the mounting cups for the gate stops:




They're thin, though - a fresh razor blade makes quick work of the unneeded part:




And, installed:




They, I think, fit to the 'stop' area on the quarter panels a bit better than the Audi parts did.
Install & adjust stops - basically, the gate shouldn't 'bounce' when you press on either side, and it should appear parallel to the quarter windows.
Preload adjustment: Those white 10mm nuts on the back of the stops adjust the spring pressure. Righty-tighty and all that. I wound mine in 5 turns on each. They actually work better than the Audi bits did. :)
 

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Very good write-up--I've got this one bookmarked for later.

Question for ya. When you say that the trunk can be released and opened remotely, does that mean that with coding & the addition of the new gate ejector stops, it will actually open all the way at the push of a button? Or will it just unlock and unlatch, allowing you to just pull the trunk up with no need to push the release on the trunk to open?

My partner has been asking me to figure out a way to make his Passat's hatch pop open ever since I got my CC, where the trunk pops up like frogs in a dynamite pond at the push of a button ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It can't lift the gate up & open - it just unlocks & unlatches the gate. I'm not even going to try to find a way to get that heavy-ass thing to lift itself from closed...... But, I'm okay with that.
This is still a significant improvement over the "functionality" (if you can call it that) that VW gave us here in the States.
 

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It can't lift the gate up & open - it just unlocks & unlatches the gate. I'm not even going to try to find a way to get that heavy-ass thing to lift itself from closed...... But, I'm okay with that.
This is still a significant improvement over the "functionality" (if you can call it that) that VW gave us here in the States.
Thanks for the info! I figured that would be the case, but you're right, that's a huge improvement over the way it came from the factory. Hell, I'll just be happy when I can unlock the trunk with door unlock buttons.
 
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