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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well,

I love doing DIY's on my ride. And im a pretty mechanical savy guy :thumbup:
But dont really feel good about messing with electrical. I am up for almost anything motor wise, but i dont feel confident with electrical problems or upgrades. This is due to me not ever installing a stereo or anything of that nature i suppose.

But iv decided to upgrade my stock HU to a aftermarket with a ipod adapter. My big fault here is going to be wiring the HU. Iv read about the subject and i know what i will need but i just want to be sure i get the right thing.

That being said, can anyone sort me out and point me toward the adapter i need to plug the a/m HU to the stock connection, along with anything else id need.

I got a 99 B5 with a single din radio.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I look at that write up.. and i think "what the hell?"

I really dont get wire splicing or whatever.

You strip the wire, cut it?, add a wire tap and it somehow connects the 3 wires?

also dont get how to put together the harness for it at the beginning of the write up.
 

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from Darth's write up...
Now that we have our mis en place, lets get started. Not out to the car just yet. First take the Wiring harness and Install Instructions out of the box of your new HU. It should look like this:

grab your Wiring harness adapter, Antenna Adapter (You need this now if you have the Double DIN), Butt Connectors, Wire Crimping Tool, and Wire stripper.

Now there are, usually, standard wire colors for the wiring harnesses.

RED Wire = 12 Volt Iginition/Accessory (Switched)
Yellow Wire = 12 Volt Battery/Memory (Constant)
BLACK Wire = Ground
BLUE Wire w/ WHITE Stripe = Amp Turn On
BLUE Wire = Power Antenna
ORANGE Wire = Illumination
ORANGE Wire w/ WHITE Stripe = Dimmer
GRAY Wire = Right Front (+)
GRAY Wire w/ BLACK Stripe = Right Front (-)
WHITE Wire = Left Front (+)
WHITE Wire w/ BLACK Stripe = Left Front (-)
PURPLE Wire = Right Rear (+)
PURPLE Wire w/ BLACK Stripe = Right Rear(-)
GREEN Wire = Left Rear (+)
GREEN Wire w/ BLACK Stripe = Left Rear(-)

Note:There may be 2 Yellow Wires coming from your HU's Wiring Harness. I simply connected both of those wires to the ONE yellow of the Wiring harness adapter.

The new HU's Wiring harness will match the Metra Wiring Harness Adapter, but there are a few modifications that you will want to do if you want the new HU to function similarly to the Factory HU.

  1. The BLUE Power Antenna wire on the HU's wiring Harness will be attached to the blue wire on the Antenna adapter using a butt connector
  2. The ORANGE Illumination wire on the HU's wiring Harness will attach to 5 ft. of the 16 gauge wire, to be tapped elsewhere later in the install
  3. The RED12 Volt Iginition/Accessory (Switched) wire on the HU's wiring Harness will attach to the other 5 ft. of 16 gauge wire, again, to be tapped elsewhere later in the install

*IMPORTANT* There will be corresponding wires on the Wiring harness adapter. DO NOT simply butt connect the above wires to the adapter. Simply tape off those wires on the wiring harness adapter, as they will not be used.

There are other wires from the HU's Wiring harness that may not be used. Here are some examples:
  • BROWN Wire = Phone Mute - may be used later if you have a mobile phone kit (i.e. Clarion BT-1)
  • BLUE wire with White stripe = Amp Turn On - may be used later if installing an external amplifier for a subwoofer or after market speakers
  • There, often times, will be RCA Cables coming from the back of the HU which are only typically used for external amplification or AUX input. They will not be used for the purposes of this install

*If they are not used simply tape them off until they are used

Now that your wiring is complete it should look something like this

Click Picture to enlarge
 

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I look at that write up.. and i think "what the hell?"

I really dont get wire splicing or whatever.

You strip the wire, cut it?, add a wire tap and it somehow connects the 3 wires?

also dont get how to put together the harness for it at the beginning of the write up.
Think of it like this:

Here is your wire now: -------------------

You cut the old wire: ------------ ---------------

Then you take the new wire AND one side of the old wire and put that in one end of the butt connector and then the original other side of the wire in the other end: ==========l________l-------------
 

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I'm Urlik's Hero
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Or, and I know you high-end guys hate them, you can use "scotchlok" connectors which require no cutting or striping of factory wires.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Or, and I know you high-end guys hate them, you can use "scotchlok" connectors which require no cutting or striping of factory wires.
i was looking at those, how do they work.

Thanks for the explanation Rollinginstyle, really helped. :thumbup:
 

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You put the wire to be spliced in the side nearest the hinge and the new wire into the other side. Then you press the tab in with pliers which displaces the insulation on both wires and joins them, via the tab.

The downside is they're quite bulky.
 

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With the '99 :b5: it should be a lot easier for you. for 2 reasons:

1. You won't have to tap the Headlight switch for dimming functions (That is what I understand). I should work with the original harness.

2. You won't have to tap the tach cluster for it to work like factory. (This I know from experience)

After you match the metra adapter to the HU wiring harness it is just plug and play. You are just matching up the like colored wires, basically. How you do it is up to you. The easier, more reliable way to do that would probably be the butt connectors. I like to solder and heat shrink mine. Others use the scotch locks. The end result is usually the same. If anything, the scotch locks are more likely to fail, but most likely won't.

HERE is a site on the different ways of connecting the wire.

thad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
With the '99 :b5: it should be a lot easier for you. for 2 reasons:

1. You won't have to tap the Headlight switch for dimming functions (That is what I understand). I should work with the original harness.

2. You won't have to tap the tach cluster for it to work like factory. (This I know from experience)

After you match the metra adapter to the HU wiring harness it is just plug and play. You are just matching up the like colored wires, basically. How you do it is up to you. The easier, more reliable way to do that would probably be the butt connectors. I like to solder and heat shrink mine. Others use the scotch locks. The end result is usually the same. If anything, the scotch locks are more likely to fail, but most likely won't.

HERE is a site on the different ways of connecting the wire.

thad.
So, do i need to put together that contraption as shown in the earlier posts?
 

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So, do i need to put together that contraption as shown in the earlier posts?
For the most part yes, but you won't need to keep the orange and red wires separate. Just connect those wires to the metra adapter as you did with the rest of the wires. All of the butt connections can be made outside of the car so when you get to the car it is just plug and play.




You will NOT have to do this:

The new HU's Wiring harness will match the Metra Wiring Harness Adapter, but there are a few modifications that you will want to do if you want the new HU to function similarly to the Factory HU.

  1. The BLUE Power Antenna wire on the HU's wiring Harness will be attached to the blue wire on the Antenna adapter using a butt connector
  2. The ORANGE Illumination wire on the HU's wiring Harness will attach to 5 ft. of the 16 gauge wire, to be tapped elsewhere later in the install
  3. The RED12 Volt Iginition/Accessory (Switched) wire on the HU's wiring Harness will attach to the other 5 ft. of 16 gauge wire, again, to be tapped elsewhere later in the install
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
no, the downside is they cut a hell of a lot more than just the insulation on each wire; the wires are cut nearly in half. it's not about being an audiophile, it's about not burning your car to the ground.
so thats a no check on those.. ill just use crimps i guess.
 

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It really is easy. And for the love of god, please never use house wiring wirenuts. I've used crimp caps with great success. Twist the wires together, slide the cap onto it andd then crimp. They are a little bulkier than butt connectors. You can also just buy the harness from your local install shop and ask them to make the connections for you, probably for a small fee. I use to do that all the time for people when I installed. I just knew that if they jacked up their own install, I would be the bitch to fix it when they brought it in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
It really is easy. And for the love of god, please never use house wiring wirenuts. I've used crimp caps with great success. Twist the wires together, slide the cap onto it andd then crimp. They are a little bulkier than butt connectors. You can also just buy the harness from your local install shop and ask them to make the connections for you, probably for a small fee. I use to do that all the time for people when I installed. I just knew that if they jacked up their own install, I would be the bitch to fix it when they brought it in.
haha, well me being the guy i am, HAVE to do it myself!

even if i don't know what im doing, id rather fuck up and fix it then leaving my car with someone who may very well be a dope.
 

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If you want. I know that circuit city does sell some harnesses that match you car and a specific brand of HU directly without any connections to be made besides plugging it in. Just give them a call and there may be a chance they may have one to connect a VW to a Pioneer.

thad.
 

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no, the downside is they cut a hell of a lot more than just the insulation on each wire; the wires are cut nearly in half. it's not about being an audiophile, it's about not burning your car to the ground.
Well yes, there's that too!

How are we fixed on the 3 blink module then, did you solder yours?
 
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