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Discussion Starter #1
Brought the ride in for its 20K checkup yesterday to the local dealer
( really @ 18.6K miles) and asked them to look into the rather
annoying brake squeal that the car has developed recently.

Well, it appears that ALL 4 Rotors are "glazed", I assume the
pads are as well. Braking is OK but I do not think this is
going to get any better. only worse.

What causes this?

The rotors are a dull brown color ( not rust) and are not
scored or warped.
THey are blue around the area where they bolt onto
the wheel hub, this is from heat is it not??

Is this a common problem with 2002's??

The dealer said he would replace the Rotors under warranty
but I would have to pay for the pads and some labor, to the
tune of $200-300. I declined. Would not replace one without
replacing the other.

Has anyone else had this problem??
How did you get is resolved with minimal $$ impact?

Thanks
 

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I didn't have the same problem, but at my 30k checkup, the dealer said that my rear rotors and pads need to be replaced. I believe they used the words "they're falling apart in chunks". They highly recommended that I replace them to the tune of $380. Of course I declined. I've been driving on them for a month since, and no ill effects.

I went out and did buy PowerSlot rotors/Mintex pads for both front and rear for a little more than what the dealer wanted for the same crappy stock parts for just the rears. I haven't put them on yet (probably next week).

If they're going to replace the rotors parts under warranty, tell them to give you the new rotors, and then you can put them on. Then you get out of the labor issue. And you can buy very good aftermarket pads for around $100.

Just noticed that you're in Marlboro. Which dealer do you go to? Colonial VW? That's where I go.

-Craig
 

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36K on my 2002 1.8t 5 spd. with no problems yet. I have the BIRA setup waiting for me to install, I'll probably upgrade the rears with slotted rotors and better pads at the same time. :)
 

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Sharky said:
outrun said:
If they're going to replace the rotors parts under warranty, tell them to give you the new rotors, and then you can put them on.

-Craig
Doesn't work that way.
Then he shouldn't be charged for labor on a warranty item.

-Craig
 

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My friend, I've been through this same issue on my W8! There's so many posts on this topic in the forum.

Dougphil, the issue is that VW/Audi OEM brakepads manufactured by Jurid and Pagid are terrible. These pads take a very long time to bed correctly into the rotor, and in most cases will warp or cause glazing.

The dealership is splitting the costs with you by covering the rotors via VW's Bumper-2-Bumper warranty, and having you pay the cost of new pads and labor. Your old pads shouldn't be used on the new rotors because they are part of the problem!! Now to cut your costs dramatically, you should provide the dealership with high-quality replacement brakepads! The Pagid Black and Jurid OEM VW/Audi brakepads are very expensive and a high-quality replacement pad performs much better for significantly less $$$.

I highly recommend using PBR/Axxis Metal Masters or Ultimate pads. Stay far away from Mintex Pads because they are just as bad as the Jurid and Pagid pads IMHO. Using Metal Masters all the way around should cost you $85.00 in parts, visit Import Replacement Parts to order them online. http://www.importrp.com

Once the dealer performs the installation, be sure to bed the pads correctly! Here's an article on how to bed your brakepads. You also might want to have the dealership bleed your brakes completely and replace your fluid!!

http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm

This will save you some $$$ and give you slightly better braking performance, all under warranty.
 

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I just replaced my rotors and pads on my 2002 gls w/ 61k and the front pads still had half a pad left and the rears were almost metal to metal. I replaced with powerdiscs up front and plain in back with PBR/Axis Metal Master all around.
 

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:thumbup: That's the best setup IMHO, passnatl!!!

The problem is that dougphil is still under warranty and the dealership is going to replace his rotors. Once his warranty is gone, and the time comes for new brakes, he can take advantage of an awesome pad/rotor config.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
If they're going to replace the rotors parts under warranty, tell them to give you the new rotors, and then you can put them on. Then you get out of the labor issue. And you can buy very good aftermarket pads for around $100.

It did not appear they were willing to do this, it was all or nothing.
Hell, they can't even turn the rotors to get the glaze off.

Just noticed that you're in Marlboro. Which dealer do you go to? Colonial VW? That's where I go.

Yes, it is Colonial. I switched to them after some horrible experiences
at the dealer down the road in Natick, where I bought the car.

Right now it is in VWoA hands, I will gladly supply some aftermarket pads
if Colonial is willing to install them and get the rotors fixed under
warranty, which runs out next month. I just do not understand why this
has happened. The car only has 18.7K miles.

Very frustrating.
 

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dougphil said:
If they're going to replace the rotors parts under warranty, tell them to give you the new rotors, and then you can put them on. Then you get out of the labor issue. And you can buy very good aftermarket pads for around $100.

It did not appear they were willing to do this, it was all or nothing.
Hell, they can't even turn the rotors to get the glaze off.

Just noticed that you're in Marlboro. Which dealer do you go to? Colonial VW? That's where I go.

Yes, it is Colonial. I switched to them after some horrible experiences
at the dealer down the road in Natick, where I bought the car.

Right now it is in VWoA hands, I will gladly supply some aftermarket pads
if Colonial is willing to install them and get the rotors fixed under
warranty, which runs out next month. I just do not understand why this
has happened. The car only has 18.7K miles.

Very frustrating.
Why does the warranty end next month? Do you have an 01.5?

Bernardi, the one in Natick, is horrible. I went there before I bought my car to see if they had the configuration I wanted. They didn't, but I got an awful feeling from them. The kid (and I mean kid - no more than 17 years old) was the sales person. He hopped into the Passat to take it off the lot. He was hammering the crap out of this thing. Engine still cold, he's redlining it in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd down Rt 9.

After we get back to the place, the sales manager tries to sell me that very car for a "great deal". A whopping $500 off their normal overpriced price.

As for Colonial VW. They refused to install anything aftermarket for me. When I said I was going to get different rotors/pads since the stock ones disintegrated in 30k miles, they replied "but we can't install those". So I said "Then I'll go somewhere else". They seemed sort of stunned, but said "Ok".

Overall, though, they're really good when it comes to service. I've been happy with them.

I'm going to Shine Racing in Walpole to get the PowerSlot/Mintex sets installed, as well as a GIAC chip and Bailey DV.

-Craig
 

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Brake noise

The Swami said:
My friend, I've been through this same issue on my W8! There's so many posts on this topic in the forum.

Dougphil, the issue is that VW/Audi OEM brakepads manufactured by Jurid and Pagid are terrible. These pads take a very long time to bed correctly into the rotor, and in most cases will warp or cause glazing.

The dealership is splitting the costs with you by covering the rotors via VW's Bumper-2-Bumper warranty, and having you pay the cost of new pads and labor. Your old pads shouldn't be used on the new rotors because they are part of the problem!! Now to cut your costs dramatically, you should provide the dealership with high-quality replacement brakepads! The Pagid Black and Jurid OEM VW/Audi brakepads are very expensive and a high-quality replacement pad performs much better for significantly less $$$.

I highly recommend using PBR/Axxis Metal Masters or Ultimate pads. Stay far away from Mintex Pads because they are just as bad as the Jurid and Pagid pads IMHO. Using Metal Masters all the way around should cost you $85.00 in parts, visit Import Replacement Parts to order them online. http://www.importrp.com

Once the dealer performs the installation, be sure to bed the pads correctly! Here's an article on how to bed your brakepads. You also might want to have the dealership bleed your brakes completely and replace your fluid!!

http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm

This will save you some $$$ and give you slightly better braking performance, all under warranty.
We have less than 5000 miles on our 03 B5.5 Variant. The dealer has replaced the rear pads at 4000 miles due to excessive noise (squealing and vibration) but we are still experiencing the squeal when the brakes are cold and we are backing up. Will following the "bed-in" procedure you have listed help or should we just change over to the metal-masters? This is my wife's car and it is driven very seldom.
 

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2003 GLS 1.8 Rear Brake Replacement

Weird.. With only 17K on my 03 GLS 1.8 wagon, I just had rear brake rotors and disks replaced at dealer. Even though it is past warranty (from what I read in the manual) they replaced at no charge - great service. I asked if 17K was early, and they seemed to think that with city driving, lots of stop-and-go - it was within the norm. Well... I do USE the turbo, and it is all city driving, and I am not shy about the brakes... Does it seem normal? I am just worried about the next time that I need to do it and it is out of pocket!
 

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Sounds strange, I have 58k on my 02 and I'm still on original front and back. Colonial told me the backs were 1% remaining at about 50k and I had already purchased rotors and pads for all four wheels back around 45k. I will probably have to do the rears one of these days.
 
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