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Discussion Starter #1
I'm looking into Autocross, don't have any experience with it. I was wondering about what class i would fall into and what other mods i should consider to better my setup.

Current setup:
2000 Passat Sedan GLS 1.8T FWD
5 speed
GIAC chip
CAI
Forge DV
Milltek catback
Koni shocks
H&R springs (1.5" drop)
18" ADR wheels
Kumho Ecsta ast 235/40/18 fronts (brand new)
Falken ziex ze329 225/40/18 rears (~40% left)

Soon to come:
boost gauge
ECS "race" n75
MBC (in parallel)
Turbo inlet pipe
cheap factory tranny tunnel brace
neuspeed rear sway

From the research that i did, i think that would put me in the Street Touring category, and i think since the fronts are 235 that would bump me to STX?

I tried to list everything i could think of, like i said i have zero experience but i'd like to get prepared for when i do this i.e. know what class i'll be in, and how far mod wise i can go w/o bumping up another class. Any/All input is appreciated.
 

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Resident a-hole knowitall
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get rid of the 18s they are way too heavy also what tires are on them if u do choose to run them.

also do you plan on taking out the back seat? i ran SM on my passat since i had an APR software, racetec FMIC, miltek exhuast, mocal oil cooler, dahlback DV, test pipe, LSD, LWFW, stipped the backseat and trunk, added a few subframe braces, bigger brakes, sticky rubber lightweight 17's, racing harness (a must i couldnt believe the difference it made) and some other mods that may or may not have been legal for my class ;)


heres a pic of mine back in its prime

 

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Discussion Starter #3
the tires that are on right now are in the original post, as for the wheels yes i would have preferred 17" but after looking in to it, its not worth it to me to switch: my wheels are ~23lbs each, i cant afford lightweight wheels so really i'd be looking at ~2lb per wheel difference with a comparable 17", grant it tho that would take off 8lbs of rotating mass. For me, i love how my wheels look, and 8lbs is not enough for me to make a change at the moment.

however, i did find a set of super cheap 16" wheels @ 19lbs. so for a 16lb overall savings i could maybe justify having a track set of wheels. thoughts on 16" wheels?
 

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Resident a-hole knowitall
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16 would work but the sidewall would be a little much you would have to run a stiff side wall with some good PSI to overcome the roll over of it.

i ran Kumho MX tires and they were a blast supper sticky but forgiving, personally i would run all 4 of the same tires you are going to wanna rotate the tires every race to get even wear on them and switching from one brand to another is going to screw up the handling that u get used to with the other set up front, even rotating my tires every race you could feel the difference in the wear patterns

also lets see if you dont have a good alignment get one done and ask for 0 toe, start the tires at 40 PSI cold then check the tires for scrubbing and adjust the pressure as you need it, if the sidewall is scrubbing add pressure if its not take a few PSI out of them till you get just a little scrubbing then add some to get right on the sweet spot. also get a good tire gauge not a cheap one with the little plunger that moves get a good race one that you can let air out with as well and some kind of 12v compressor or an air tank.

are you writing this down?

on my 17s i found 38 rear and 35 front was best for me to induce back end sliding but i had custom spring, shocks, and a stiff rear sway so that helped to, but that was with MX tires which are a little stickier and stiffer than the ASX ones.

but where are you located and where are you going to race?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
just some local auto-x, here in VA, and my buddy wants me to go to summit point too.

very small tire selection at 225/45/16 so i'll probably go with a 50 sidewall. i was looking at the kumho ecsta spt, they got decent track results on tire rack. (and they're cheap, see a recurring theme here? lol)

thanks for the reminder about the alignment, definitely need to have that checked.
 

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Because the chip directly alters boost you are not eligible for Street Touring (Top of page 87 in the rulebook).

My guess is that you are going to be in DSP but you should ask for help with that from one of the veterans on-site.

When I ran my '99 B5 1.8T (G-Stock), I had 15" wheels with 205/60/15 Falken 512's and I had to run the front pressures up to 50psi to keep them from rolling over on grippy concrete. A few PSI less on more slippery surfaces like asphalt. The rears I kept waaaay down to try to balance out some of the understeer. With performance-oriented 16" tires, you can go a bit lower than this but I would start high and work your way down. It's easier to remove air between runs than add it and it's easier to track how far down the sidewall the wear is going if you are increasing the wear rather than decreasing.

Anything you can do to add negative camber in the front will be helpful. You may even want some toe-out in the rear but I'd go with something conservative until you learn to speak your car's language.

You're doing the right thing by going cheap on the tires early on. It's very easy to waaaay overdrive the front end when you are still learning. Doing this dramatically increases tire wear (while slowing you down, no less).
 

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My pornstar name came up "Jay the Snork."
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You are definitely classed in DSP because of the chip.
 
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