[HermanH]

http://www.corral.net/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=3001552
http://www.corral.net/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=3001562
http://www.corral.net/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=3001579

For those of you who know parts:

4340 Forged Steel Crank 3.25" stroke, chamfered oil holes and balanced (mfg. unknown at this time)
4340 Forge H-Beam 5.4" rods by ESP
Ross Racing Pistons, flat top with large valve reliefs (I have 2.02" intakes)
ARP rod bolts and ARP main studs
1/2" billet steel girdle
Melling HV oil pump (not shown)
Moly ring set
Clevlite bearings
302 block - brand new, bored .030" w/torque plates; needs freeze plugs but has new cam bearings installed.
To the best as I can determine, this block should be worth between $2200-3000.
I'll let you know what I get it for.

 

[Guest]

vrooommm vroommmm vrommmmmm, :thumbup:

 

[pass-variant]

Curious on the undercut (pointed lip) on the piston permiter of the falve reliefs... is this right? Shouldn't that material also be removed (as the valve would interfere with this small protrusion. Just curious. Given the geometry, I don't quite get how the valve uses the relief without hitting the piston material causing the undercut?

Otherwise... it's puuurrdy.

 

[Holicow]

Curious on the undercut (pointed lip) on the piston permiter of the falve reliefs... is this right? Shouldn't that material also be removed (as the valve would interfere with this small protrusion. Just curious. Given the geometry, I don't quite get how the valve uses the relief without hitting the piston material causing the undercut?

Otherwise... it's puuurrdy.

It's a optical delusion.

 

[HermanH]

Well guy's it's in the back of the Passat hiding from the wife!!! :lol:
This thing is HEAVY! Thought it was going to roll right through the rear seats at the first THUMP-THUMP when I hit the brakes! I granny drove the Passat for the next 30 minutes back home (i'm only 8 miles from home.)

And the price: well the guy was VERY honest and kept the deal even though someone offered him a little more. $1,700!!!

I need to really find more of these "repo" deals. :lol: :lol:

I'll have it on the engine stand tomorrow!!!

 

[ronaldmcdonald]

That's a pretty good deal for a shortblock w/ forged internals (lol, even the crank too!).

 

[CRD99]

Herman-

How much can you get a 5.0 front clip with everything for? I'd be looking for the long block, harness, and a T5 tranny. I'm thinking about a swap for a Volvo 240 wagon.

 

[Todd]

Herman,

Sounds like you are coming along pretty far. I had a Mustang and recently sold it to buy a Chopper. http://www.clubb5.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=65790

A friend of mine owns Racer Walsh (www.racerwalsh.com) and he helped me build mine. I wish I would have finished it. I had a 331 with R302 (4 bolt main ford racing block. Wiseco pistons 8.5:1 compression, eagle forged crank, forged Crower Sportsman rods, Holley systemax intake extrude honed, TFS Trick Flow track heat heads with stage 2 port work and upgraded valve springs with titanium retainers. The list goes on and on and on. To the tune of over $12,000 in the motor. I ran 150 hp shot of nitrous and had the turbo kit ready to install.

I bought my turbo kit from cartech and just never got the chance to put it in. I had a T76 ceramic bearing turbo. Outlaw headers and billet intercooler.

Good luck with your project. If you need any parts etc call my friend. Eddie Miller. You can get the 800 number from his website. Tell him Todd sent you. He will take care of you. They have been in business for almost 30 years so it isnt just a fly by night company.

The engine in the pics is not mine. I had my turbo kit set up on a motor in Racer Walsh's showroom just to show it off till I decided to put it in.

 

[HermanH]

Herman,

Sounds like you are coming along pretty far. I had a Mustang and recently sold it to buy a Chopper. http://www.clubb5.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=65790

A friend of mine owns Racer Walsh (www.racerwalsh.com) and he helped me build mine. I wish I would have finished it. I had a 331 with R302 (4 bolt main ford racing block. Wiseco pistons 8.5:1 compression, eagle forged crank, forged Crower Sportsman rods, Holley systemax intake extrude honed, TFS Trick Flow track heat heads with stage 2 port work and upgraded valve springs with titanium retainers. The list goes on and on and on. To the tune of over $12,000 in the motor. I ran 150 hp shot of nitrous and had the turbo kit ready to install.

I bought my turbo kit from cartech and just never got the chance to put it in. I had a T76 ceramic bearing turbo. Outlaw headers and billet intercooler.

Good luck with your project. If you need any parts etc call my friend. Eddie Miller. You can get the 800 number from his website. Tell him Todd sent you. He will take care of you. They have been in business for almost 30 years so it isnt just a fly by night company.

The engine in the pics is not mine. I had my turbo kit set up on a motor in Racer Walsh's showroom just to show it off till I decided to put it in.

:bow: :bow: :bow:

That looks wicked!!!!
I'm still hoping to sell the donor w/engine now to a local person in San Francisco. If I get $1k I'll be happy.

Herman-

How much can you get a 5.0 front clip with everything for? I'd be looking for the long block, harness, and a T5 tranny. I'm thinking about a swap for a Volvo 240 wagon.

You should be able to get the front end stuff on a pallette for under $1,000. Check around.

 

[HermanH]

Here's a few pics when I was removing the engine from the Passat:

 

[Kiyoshi]

WOAH I Was so confused there, I thought that you took the 1.8T (or W8, or VR6, whichever you have) out of the Passat!

Anyways, that's a sweet motor you're gonna have, but why couldn't you get or use a 427 for your AC Cobra 427 replica?

 

[Todd]

The engine looks good. You going to use a power adder...?

Since you are probably looking at 9.75 or 10:1 compression (depending on heads)my guess is you would stay with nitrous.

I had my heads combustion chambers reworked and enlarged to 70cc to give me low enough compression to run 17-22 psi (850hp or so). But before I got the heads reworked I was at approx. 9.3:1.



PS I forgot that I read elsewhere that you were building a cobra replica not rebuilding a older cobra mustang. But the offer for my friend still holds. He sells parts from almost any manufacturer you could imagine. Ford Motorsport dealer as well.


And the 427 option mentioned above sounds cool. Except that you can make just as much power and in fact in most cases more on a 302 based engine. (331). They can spin higher (my motor above was in the low to mid 7000rpms comfortably.) with less money spent. But a 427 side oiler (not the 427 scj etc..) would be my first choice if I had the money....!

 

[HermanH]

The 427 (real, not stroked 351W) is just too heavy for the applicaiton. The FFR Cobra will be designed to be nearly as powerful as the 427 but more with "finess" than with brute force.

The 331 is NA and "should" make 400hp crank. This paritular build will have Edelbrock Performer RPM cylinder heads (2.02" intake, 1.60 exhaust), and w/ 60cc chamber, the est. compression is 10.1-10.4:1. I have a Edelbrock Performer dual plane manifold and will get a BG Speed Demon 650cfm carb. The cam is the ONLY ingrediant missing and I'm having CompCam figure out what I should be going with (camshaft, hyd. roller lifters and valvesprings.); the cylinder heads came with Comp Cam 1.6 ratio rockers so that's one less thing I had to buy.

Gearing at the IRS will be 3.27, with the T5 being rebuilt to with a 3.35 Super alloy gear set (D&D Performance). By getting the gearing down, and keeping in mind a target of no more than 2400 lbs. (wet weight and driver), this will allow this vehcile to take off and handle well.

It may sound a little naive but having never driven any thing more powerful than my 65' Mustang (200hp) or faster than my Passat (130mph+) I felt 400hp was more than adaquate to allow me to explore this level of performance. And at 50 (when the car should be ready), I don't think I really want to go beyond that. I know I could take a 351W and get near 700hp if I wanted (w/o NOS) and that makes a lot of sense in a Mustang at 3500 lbs and 3.08 gears.

Todd, I may take your friend up on some pieces. I have the Ford Motorsports catalog and a few things maybe he can help me with; here is a small list :

M-6582-R302 ("Ford Racing" Valve covers) The "Cobra" ones won't clear the roller rockers)
M-9600-A302 ("13" Air cleaner)
M-6059-D351 ( Front Timing chain cover )
M-6375-D302 (billet steel, 0-oz. flywheel) or M-6375-D302A ( aluminum, 0-oz. flywheel)
M-7600A (roller pilot bearing)

That's it for now. TIA!

 

[Todd]

The 427 (real, not stroked 351W) is just too heavy for the applicaiton. The FFR Cobra will be designed to be nearly as powerful as the 427 but more with "finess" than with brute force.

The 331 is NA and "should" make 400hp crank. This paritular build will have Edelbrock Performer RPM cylinder heads (2.02" intake, 1.60 exhaust), and w/ 60cc chamber, the est. compression is 10.1-10.4:1. I have a Edelbrock Performer dual plane manifold and will get a BG Speed Demon 650cfm carb. The cam is the ONLY ingrediant missing and I'm having CompCam figure out what I should be going with (camshaft, hyd. roller lifters and valvesprings.); the cylinder heads came with Comp Cam 1.6 ratio rockers so that's one less thing I had to buy.

Gearing at the IRS will be 3.27, with the T5 being rebuilt to with a 3.35 Super alloy gear set (D&D Performance). By getting the gearing down, and keeping in mind a target of no more than 2400 lbs. (wet weight and driver), this will allow this vehcile to take off and handle well.

It may sound a little naive but having never driven any thing more powerful than my 65' Mustang (200hp) or faster than my Passat (130mph+) I felt 400hp was more than adaquate to allow me to explore this level of performance. And at 50 (when the car should be ready), I don't think I really want to go beyond that. I know I could take a 351W and get near 700hp if I wanted (w/o NOS) and that makes a lot of sense in a Mustang at 3500 lbs and 3.08 gears.

Todd, I may take your friend up on some pieces. I have the Ford Motorsports catalog and a few things maybe he can help me with; here is a small list :

M-6582-R302 ("Ford Racing" Valve covers) The "Cobra" ones won't clear the roller rockers)
M-9600-A302 ("13" Air cleaner)
M-6059-D351 ( Front Timing chain cover )
M-6375-D302 (billet steel, 0-oz. flywheel) or M-6375-D302A ( aluminum, 0-oz. flywheel)
M-7600A (roller pilot bearing)

That's it for now. TIA!

Man, IRS sounds great in a car like that. I havent really ever looked under the rear ends of the kit cars to see if they use live axle or IRS.

Have you thought about trying different cam combos on Desktop Dyno just so you have a feel for whats gonna happen. I have a copy here if you want to borrow it. Or I can run the numbers and cut and paste the results to a word doc or something.

I know nothing about carb'd cars. My friend knows a pretty good bit though. They deal with 4 cyclinder race cars as a large portion of their business.

I would go with a aluminum flywheel. It will be less of a hit off the line but with that light of a car you dont really need a super hard hit since you will most likely spin. It will spin up faster once you get going which is where I would guess you could use it more.

I will tell him you may call and let him know to take care of you. He is good about spending the time to find out exactly what you are doing and in turn what you need.

 

[HermanH]

thanks todd. One more thing : internally balanced motors. The crank was professionally balanced according to the seller. If this is true, I was curious about the type of harmonic balancer.

I made the assumption that with an internally balanced crank, you need NO weight on either the flywheel or HB; I've found that the flywheels come with 0 oz. balance but nothing for the HB; maybe I'm not looking in the right place ???

 

[Todd]

thanks todd. One more thing : internally balanced motors. The crank was professionally balanced according to the seller. If this is true, I was curious about the type of harmonic balancer.

I made the assumption that with an internally balanced crank, you need NO weight on either the flywheel or HB; I've found that the flywheels come with 0 oz. balance but nothing for the HB; maybe I'm not looking in the right place ???

Your assumption is correct. A zero balanced motor will have no weight on the flywheel or HB. They do make specific HB'ers for a 0 weight balance(just doesnt come with a weight installed). OR you can remove the weight from the HB to make it 0 balance.

Keep in mind that some HB's do not have removable weights. I cant tell you which one but Eddie can. I am pretty sure the SFI approved Motorsport one has a removable weight.... I already called Eddie and told him that if you do call to really take care of you. (your write ups have already helped me alot) But if you end up ordering one from somewhere else just make sure they confirm both the flywheel AND HB have removeable weights.

ALL billet flywheels used to come with removeable weights but I just got off the phone with Eddie and he said some have stopped coming with them.