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Ok here is the deal, this weekend we did a TB and didn't have the right cam pully to use with the bar. So we loosened the cam and it popped like the write up said the pully would do. Go the belt off but when putting it on again it was a PITA. We ending up marking the camshaft and turning it open tooth to the right to get ehough play to install the TB. We move it back to where it was and the bar stayed locked in the whole time. What should I do the next time???

Thanks for helping
 

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the two of the write ups we had stated to "pop" the cam sprockets foward 1/4". Unfortunately, the sprocket puller (craftsman, from sears) would not do the trick. What he wants to know is if it is necessary to "pop" the sprockets foward.

I would say no, but only because I was there and regardless even if we did have the correct pulley, there would be now way to remove the slack out of the top portion of the timing belt without strategically rotating them a tooth. Think about this; regardless of how tight we tried to pull the belt when putting it over the cam sprockets, we could not get all the slack out of it. By rotating the passenger side cam sprocket 1 tooth clockwise to apply the belt, the tension is removed by rotating the sprocket counter-clockwise 1 tooth. Essentially, the same was done with the crank sprocket to elimanate the tension on the drivers side. In the end, all the slack was relocated where the tensioner is (between the passenger side cam sprocket and crank sprocket).
 

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Actually, that's exactly why you pop the sprockets. The sprockets are not keyed to the camshafts. Only that little diamond shaped plate with the two holes is. When the sprockets are loose, it allows the tension across the top to balance the tension on the sides. Only once it's all even on the sides and top, do you seat the sprockets on the camshaft tapers.

Is it the end of the world? Probably not. Do you still have the bar? If you can refit the bar easily with the belt on, you're ok. If you need to torque the bar up or down to engage the second sprocket, I'd be wary.

BTW, a three jawed puller should work fine. If you do pop them, run the screws back in just until they stop and then back them off just a hair, not 1/4 inch. You want them to spin freely, but not flop around.
 

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I see what you are saying. In our case, we should have no need to worry since the sprockets were never separated from the plates, therefore the timing in the head was maintained.
 

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That's assuming that the length of the old belt and position of the old water pump is the same. Minor differences can add up to a large angular change. If the car runs fine, don't sweat it. For the next change, pop the sprockets.
 

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A three jaw puller works fine. Just place the feet in three sprocket holes. You have to remove the bolt.

If you loosen the water pump bolts, it can be moved up and down; not much, but some. How far up or down will affect the length of the belt between the two valve sprockets.
 

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It's the only way. Note that once you start the seal extractor, there's no turning back. Using a ratchet and the heel of your hand to get it in. If you do the crank seal, you'll need a BIG breaker bar.
 
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