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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
from the for sale post from previous owner


1999 VW Passat Wagon. 111k Miles, Manual transmission

Color is Black magic pearl, Fully Loaded, Power everything, Black leather heated interior, Audi Fat 5 Wheels, K04 Turbo upgrade, Front Mount Intercooler, Stage 2 clutch (Less than 5k miles) and more...

that it could need Coil Packs or Ignition Control Module or ecm or tba??
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ok so now heres the deal i have to over rev the car to get it to move as soon as the car is going the other gears shift fine.

also the car cuts off when 1st started or about the cut off. so i need help on fixing whats rigged under the hood due to changing the turbo and fmic and intake.


besides that heres pics
























 

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Diagnosing that mess is going to be almost impossible. All of those sensitive electronic controls hanging by the wires that transmit signals is never a good idea. Even if they are not the problem now, they will be down the road.
Also the air filter is positioned about as poorly as possible. It is drawing air from the hottest part of the engine, which pretty much eliminates any benefit from the FMIC.
I would suggest that a junkyard airbox might be a great investment. Get all of the wiring sorted out first. The crimp-on connectors to the MAF made me cringe. There also seem to be several bare wires hanging around. One near the AC lines and another behind the headlight.
I pulled the engine from my 1999 turbo wagon a year ago, and took pics of all of the electrical connections beforehand, so that I would know where everything went when I put it back together. They are at http://picasaweb.google.com/lwindram/Passat#. Hopefully they can help you out.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
why do they make aftermarket intake if there no goo for these cars? also where does that small box from the maf sensor connects to and where does that blue cable goes thats cut?

thanks for the stock pics also.
 

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why do they make aftermarket intake if there no goo for these cars?
Because as long as people are willing to buy, people are willing to sell, even if the product is harmful/useless. There seems to be a perverse fascination with intake modifications; we have scores of people here who want a "cold air intake" before they even open the hood and discover they already have one.

Diagnosing this remotely is like saying "I built a time machine but it only goes back to 1955" NO NONE knows exactly what mods have been done here, except that they appear to have been done badly. You'll have to reverse-engineer it all and try to decipher the previous owners intent.

I'd start with restoring the stock airbox and intake system, including remounting the ICM to the box, where it will get proper cooling. While you're doing that, fix/check the wiring to the MAF. That blue wire (and the opening for it) don't belong there. Follow it back to it's source?
 

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Contact the previous owner/builder and get as accurate a list of modifications as you can. (injectors? tune? plugs? manual boost controller? fuel pressure regulator? larger MAF?)

Have it scanned for codes and post the complete list of code numbers in this thread. A vag-com auto-scan is best, but if you don't have access, a generic OBDII code reader will give us something to work with.

Looks like the N75 valve is laying on top of the spring tower with no hoses attached to it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
thanks guys im going to order a scanner with a reset. as soon as i get it i will update you guys. thanks again
 

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Holy butt connecters on the MAF, and what is under the tape for the O2 sensor........my guess is more butt connecters. Look at it this way you will find yourself very involved with your car and will learn a lot about it.:wrench:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yeah im a hands on person so cleaning up the mess wouldnt be a prb. Just need to get it running right.


Also what is this??
 

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Also what is this??
That is an after market manual boost controller. From the factory, the N75 valve was there. The N75 is what the ECM uses to control boost production.



In the above picture you see your N75 valve laying on top of the suspension tower just to the left of the A/C lines.
 

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It's probably not the cause of your rough starting. This device takes control of boost production away from the engine management system. Instead of having the ECM decide when and how much to boost, this allows you to dial in a boost setting that the turbo will always be trying to achieve. If set up properly, it can be a good thing. If set up incorrectly, it can hurt the engine. What a lot of people do is leave the boost production under the control of the ECM and change the programming (chip). Professionally developed performance software will call for more boost, but also have the proper fueling and timing maps to go with it.

For your problems, start with a code scan and see what codes are being logged. I'd first worry about the MAF, the ignition system and any vacuum/boost leaks.

Also try to get as complete a list of modifications as you can from the previous owner. Who knows what injectors are in there or what software it's using? You may have a collection of parts that don't match one another, or you may have a properly tuned performance setup just in need of a little TLC. It's any ones guess at this point.
 

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holy crap, well first what or why is there a big hole in your turbo inlet pipe? that should be connected to the breather line that it right above it in the picture with the boost controller.

do you have any better pics of the turbo inlet area?

again holy crap was that hacked together.
 
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