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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

I got a call from one of our kids that said last night driving home the lights in the car starting blinking on and off (Cabin lights) and then the trunk open light came on, he stopped slammed it shut and while it didn't go out immediately, it finally did. He said something was beeping but then it stopped.

This monring, it will not start. When he tried to lock the drivers door manually, the button pops back up. Fob doesn't work with the locks.

CCM? Any other ideas?
 

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Check the negative battery cable. Take it off at both ends, scrub the mounting points with emery paper, and reattach. Floating ground will cause much havoc with electronic systems.

Also, clean out the rubber bungs that drain the water out of the space where the battery is. To do this, you have to get under the car. Actually, just pull the damn things out -- all they do is trap leaves. You don't need them 'cause, you know, gravity's been doing a pretty good job of making water drain downward, all by itself, for the past few billion years.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
An update:

Hi to repeat my original message.,

One of our '98 1.8T Tiptronic passats acted odd 4 days ago for one of our kids that had it at college. From what I could make out:

Driving down road, trunk open light comes on and alarm sounds, blinking dash lights.
Sone pulls over, opens and closes the trunk, climbs in and then the alarm stops and beeping stops. Drives back to dorm.
In the AM, he goes out to start it, turns ignition, hears normal sounds and then nothing, (No cranking, click or anything). He also realized the remote fob had stopped working. Headlights work, radio works, no interior overhead lights (Had been an intermittant problem for 2 years)

We drug it home with a dolly today.

1st thing I notice is that when you open any of the passenger doors or trunk, you hear the CCM clicking. I had a spare CCM and when I put it in, I turned the key, a relay in the dash was cliking away but it turned over and started. I noticed though that the interior lights weren't working and turned off the engine. I started to look at the wires (CCM area) and then turned on the ignition and no start!? I checked fuse 14 and it was blown.

I then replaced fuse 14 and whenever I turn the key to "ON" the car alarm goes off. I can lock and unlock with the door switch but not the fob (Which was working before this nonsense). If I pull the fuse (14), and open ny of the passenger side doors or trunk, I hear the same clicking from the CCM itself. With fuse 14 pulled, if you turn the switch to "ON" then relay 79 clicks away and no crank.

Well - I just found my VagCom cable.....in the meantime


Any ideas???
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Update:

I've removed a lot of the "friction" tape holding together the varios bundles in the footwell area near the CCM. I've also checked a lot of the factory splices in the area and so far everything it nice and clean and looks like good contact.

Is there a particular area or bundle to focus on? The ground lug looks OK, the connectors themselves that plug into the CCM look good (Clean, not corrosion).

As far as Vag-Com, it flagged the various locks as having an "Implausible Signal" The only way I could run VagCom was to insert fuse 14, turn the Ignit switch ON, Car alarm (Horn, Light) go on, pull Fuse 14 and leave ignition ON, alarm goes off, put fuse 14 in and then run VagCom.

It was getting late and the neighbors were porbably sick of the horn.

I did some measurements of the CCM and you would get the right responses (Door Locks on/off, windows, etc.).

SOmething seems to be hung up specifically in the area of the alarm AND enabling the starting relay as part of the theft determent?

Just for grins, I removed the negative lead of the battery and will tackle again tonight.

Any hints would be appreciated!
 

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Sounds like a door switch is out of whack. Check if the interior lights respond properly to each door being opened/ closed. There's also a switch in the hood latch, and the one in the trunk that could cause the alarm to go off, which will prevent the car from starting.

There's also a function somewhere in Vag-Com that will show you the status of each of those switches in real time. I haven't had my VAG setup out for over a year, so I can't remember where that is.

The CCM wiring/ splices usually fail between the CCM and the front kick panel, when there is a failure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks - I've been out of town for a few days. I'll go down this route and see what I find.

I talked to the kid about your reply and he said "Oh yeah, I haven't been able to open the door with the key, I use the fob or open the passenger door"

We may have a clue there....
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hey,

I took the drivers door lock apart (Found another link here that had a great write up) and four of the soldered connections were cracked. I resoldered, managed to put it back together AND IT WORKS!!!!!!!


Now, assuming I don't break something putting the carpet in, retaping the harnes, putting the damn window regulator back in a couple of hours later and the car is ready to go back to college!

Thanks to all!

I wonder what this would have run at the dealership?
 

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Hey,

I took the drivers door lock apart (Found another link here that had a great write up) and four of the soldered connections were cracked. I resoldered, managed to put it back together AND IT WORKS!!!!!!!


Now, assuming I don't break something putting the carpet in, retaping the harnes, putting the damn window regulator back in a couple of hours later and the car is ready to go back to college!

Thanks to all!

I wonder what this would have run at the dealership?
1 arm , and a left nut!
if they would have found it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I couldn't believe how long it took me to do this whole operation. True, I moved slow during disassembly but it likely took 6+ hours for all of it.

I "hate" the window regulator assy. What a royal pain.
 
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