[isleepzzz]

Hey guys... I seriously can't find this huge oil leak...

1998 VW Passat 1.8t (AEB engine)

I thought the leak was coming from back side of the oil pan (right next to the flywheel part of the oil pan)
However, I properly replaced the oil pan with the new gasket and still the SAME exact leak in the SAME exact area.
(did this twice actually and still same leak)
So I'm ruling out the oil pan.
So here is some pictures of whats going on:






Seems like its leaking down somewhere inside the flywheel area and then dripping down where the pictures are showing.
Soooo here is some things we can rule out:
Valve cover gasket
Cam Chain Tensioner gasket + halfmoon gasket
Oil pan gasket
Oil cooler gasket (heater exchanger also as its known as)



Soooo I'm confused where the hell is could be leaking from......???
If you have ANY ideas of where exactly it could leak and drip down in that area, please let me know!
It's a pretty big leak, only a couple of days til it goes from full on dipstick to barley even on the dipstick!

here is a little video of the drip:
https://youtu.be/Z-d58E5RH8M

 

[ylwagon]

A failed rear crankshaft seal would leak in that area. But that pan - you sure that there's no cracks in it? Oil will blow back when driving making it harder to say for sure.

 

[isleepzzz]

here is a little video of the drip:
https://youtu.be/Z-d58E5RH8M

 

[isleepzzz]

A failed rear crankshaft seal would leak in that area. But that pan - you sure that there's no cracks in it? Oil will blow back when driving making it harder to say for sure.

Yeah I can say absolutely the pan should be leak free.
Do you REALLY think the crankshaft seal could fail with only 121k miles on it???? That seems very odd to me.... I know some of these passat with 300k with still the same crankshaft seal.

 

[ECS Tuning]

OP;

If you need a rear crank shaft seal, we sell that at ECS Tuning.
Here is the link to it: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine...tm_medium=forum&utm_campaign=chuck_11_22_2017
It is in Stock, on Sale, and FREE Shipping

You will need to hurry as there is a limited supply.

Chuck

 

[woodardhsd]

That looks way too light colored to be engine oil, unless the oil was just changed 5 minutes ago. Looks more like transmission fluid. Is the oil thick like engine oil? It looks a little thin in the video, as fast as it's dripping.

 

[ylwagon]

Oh, new suggestion: Power steering fluid.

 

[isleepzzz]

That looks way too light colored to be engine oil, unless the oil was just changed 5 minutes ago. Looks more like transmission fluid. Is the oil thick like engine oil? It looks a little thin in the video, as fast as it's dripping.

It's oil
Oil is brand spanking new... Definitely won't ever get nasty oil in there because having to add so much damn oil all the time...
I feel like the leak is getting worse too....

 

[isleepzzz]

OP;

If you need a rear crank shaft seal, we sell that at ECS Tuning.
Here is the link to it: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine...tm_medium=forum&utm_campaign=chuck_11_22_2017
It is in Stock, on Sale, and FREE Shipping

You will need to hurray as there is a limited supply.

Chuck

WOOOEEE???? We sure that is for my car?!?!?! 1998 VW PASSAT 1.8t FWD A/T AEB engine!?!?

Because when I did the oil pan, I did NOT see that bottom rubber gasket that sits with the oil pan. Only say the metal of it.????
Is it possible that rubber piece is just gone!?!?

 

[javis20]

Are you sure it's not leaking at the oil pressure sensor?

 

[zak99B5]

WOOOEEE???? We sure that is for my car?!?!?! 1998 VW PASSAT 1.8t FWD A/T AEB engine!?!?

Because when I did the oil pan, I did NOT see that bottom rubber gasket that sits with the oil pan. Only say the metal of it.????
Is it possible that rubber piece is just gone!?!?

Well, if you put in a B5 Passat with an AEB (or ATW, 05A block) motor on the description of the seal, it says it fits.

You replaced the oil pan gasket twice? That's a long job, what with dropping the subframe and supporting the engine and all. You did use new big subframe bolts, right, as they are TTY?

Amd mileage isn't that big a factor for rubber parts when you are talking about a thirty-year old car.

 

[isleepzzz]

Well, if you put in a B5 Passat with an AEB (or ATW, 05A block) motor on the description of the seal, it says it fits.

You replaced the oil pan gasket twice? That's a long job, what with dropping the subframe and supporting the engine and all. You did use new big subframe bolts, right, as they are TTY?

Amd mileage isn't that big a factor for rubber parts when you are talking about a thirty-year old car.

Yeah it was horrible doing this oil pan removal job.... I did not get new subframe bolts; the bolts look perfectly fine like any other bolts. Not having any problems with them.
However... What is EXTREMELY confusing me is how the leak's behavior is.....

If I leave the car overnight and look, NO LEAKS whatsoever... When I start the car and it's running, then leaks will start dripping out.
When I turn off the car, the leak will still continue for about maybe 1-3hours and then eventually stop completely.
What kind of f****ing leak is this??? Shouldn't it be constantly leaking if it was any seal like oil pan gasket or rear main seal???

 

[isleepzzz]

Are you sure it's not leaking at the oil pressure sensor?

yeah... unfortunately it's not
That pressure sensor is dry as a bone :'c

 

[zak99B5]

Well, when the motor is not running, the level of the oil is below the rear main seal.

When it is running, the oil pump forces oil into the gap between the crank journals and bearings, one of which is at the rear end of the crankshaft.

Is this starting to make sense?

As for the subframe bolts, they deform slightly at full torque spec to help them lock in place and keep the subframe clamped securely to the rails.

Torquing them a second time to that spec is risky; a third time even moreso. You risk them snapping as you are torquing them to spec or if they get just the right stress. If you don't torque them fully to avoid this, you risk them not clamping the subframe securely, allowing it to shift (affecting your alignment), either right away or after they back out enough over time.

You can't look at them and say "they're fine." They cost around $10-12 for the set at the dealer. Cheap insurance for a pretty important fastener.

 

[Tomvw]

You should never re-use TTY bolts.

If you do re-use TTY bolts, you must NOT tighten them to the original specs,
this would over stress the bolts and they will eventually strip the threads or break.
You would tighten them to a suitable torque value without the extra part turn, I don't know what that value would be.

 

[Wagon_boy]

Hmmmmmm my cars engine was poorly maintained when I saved it from it's previous owner. I remember having to replace a bunch of gaskets, pcv valve, engine bay gasket, oil cooler ring, oil sensor...it was ridiculous! The one that really killed me and my wallet was the rear main seal which seems to me like it can be the same oil leak you have. It sounds like it too because when mines was leaking thru the main seal my oil was running out in a matter of days. I hope its not that because if it is prepare yourself this will be about a $500-$1000 job depending on the mechanic you take it too!

 

[cchief22]

oil problems are a royal pain,plain and simple, and they will do not always travel on the path of least resistance, due to Murphy's Law,however check behind /rear of the valve cover, along where the CCT sits and the "half moon" gasket rests.....this is a common weak point/area of concern especially on these engines and becomes acute when the pcv system clogs/craps up. check your plug wells also,I realize that is not the source of the said leak, however it is a harbinger of a pcv system that needs attention.in my opinion it seems to extreme/intense be rear main.