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Discussion Starter #1
The 4MO Tip Trans weighs 286 lbs with the mounts, differentials,torque converter and fluid (minus what came out of the trans cooler).
Pretty close to the 300 I estimated last time I had mine out. The 6sp manual with a lightweight single mass flywheel, clutch and RS4 pressure plate weighs 194 lbs.

Should make quite a difference in balance when I am done later this week. I will have to lower the front a bit to compensate for the weight reduction.
 
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I've got one of those heavy ZFs (for an '05 A4 Quattro) strapped to a pallet, all clean and with a new filter, and nowhere to go. I bought it when I mis-diagnosed a simple stripped axle spline for a broken transmission.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Not documenting as I am too dirty to use my wife's camera and too tired to write anything down.

The stock rear dif already has 4:11 ratio, same as the S4 trans.
 

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How far into this are you? Didn't know you started it already. I would volunteer to document it, but my work load has been picking up.
 

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Not documenting as I am too dirty to use my wife's camera and too tired to write anything down.

The stock rear dif already has 4:11 ratio, same as the S4 trans.
Unless its a w8 TIP, then its not 4:11 :cry:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I am about 2/3 of the way through. Clutch and pedals are in as are the hydraulics. Trans goes in today and (depending on work) I should finish this week except for the electrical (Cruise and Reverse lights). My back and neck have been a problem the last few weeks, otherwise I would have been done already.

The V6 4MO Tip has 4.11 depending on the year and trans. The Bentley has a list of the different transmissions and their matching rear diff ratios and mine matches the 4.11. Some were made with the 3.89. but I think most of those were European models.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Trans, shifter and linkage all went back in Wednesday, but I was not able to work on it Thursday (back/neck issue) or today (had to work late due to weather).
I did find that the bag of bolts that the trans came with did not include as pair for the starter, so I had to order them while I ran to Home Depot for temporary replacements. HD had 8.8 and the OEM are 10.9, so they will hold until next week when the new ones come in. Will get most of it finished Saturday after work and then hope to drive it on Sunday sometime. No big rush as my back/neck issue really limits what I can do on consecutive days.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thought I had everything finished on Tuesday, but the engine would not turn (with starter or by hand). I will be pulling it apart today to see what went wrong. I am hoping is it only the temporary starter bolts (had to order new ones that I picked up Friday). Everything went in as it came off the donor car, so I don't know what else it could be. Clutch assembly came off the same donor car as the trans, spacer was used between the engine and trans (S4 clutch).
 

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Discussion Starter #13
No, the engine will not physically turn even with a wrench. I am pretty sure I turned it after the clutch was in, but once the trans and starter were bolted up, no go.
 

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I completely overlooked that part of your post about not turning by hand. I hope it is only the bolts for the starter. I'm curious if you'll make changes to your suspension setup now that you have a lighter car.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
No luck on the starter..Got the 3 axles, starter and back half of the exhaust pulled today after work. Will back the trans out a little on Sunday and see if it turns, otherwise it also comes down. At least the manual has alot more room to work around. Once the axles are out, I can reach almost all of the bolts from below.
The subframe still has to be lowered to reach the shift rod bolts, but that does not take long. It also needs to be low enough to pull the cats out if the trans has to come all the way down.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
It was not the trans either. Pulled the clutch and found the bolts had bottomed out in the crank. I could not tell if the flywheel was hitting the block. It seems this flywheel needs either a spacer or shorter bolts (I used OEM). I did not see a spacer when this was removed from the donor engine and ETKA does not list one for the manual. The spacer from behind the flexplate seems like a perfect fit as the bottom 2 threads of the bolts were damaged from hitting the taper in the crank. I just worry that the flywheel would then be too far from the engine and hit the trans.

Now the bigger issue. Could the engine have been damaged from bottoming out the bolts or if the flywheel hits the back of the engine when the bolts are torqued down? I was barely able to move the crank a few degrees with a 1/2" torque wrench on the front bolt, but it did not seem to move easily. It seemed like it was much too difficult to move.

It's possible I was too tired to move the crank much, but I doubt it. I'll try again on Monday.
 

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Sent you a pm back Paul, I completely forgot about the bolt issues that the s4 guys run into a bunch.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
No Joy and not feeling well as I am stressing out over this.

Looking for a motor now. The OEM flywheel bolts were too long and probably pushed the back of the crank into the main bearing. I can not see any cracks in the crank bolt bores, but that's the only thing possible as the motor will not turn.

I'll do a postmortem on the block once everything is changed out.
 
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