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Nice write-up. Here's a couple of things I did.. I went to the local Ace Hardware store to the plumbing/faucet section and bought a couple of nylon nozzles along with four feet of clear tubing for less than $5 (took drain plug with me). I drilled out a hole in the cap of a cleaned out coolant bottle and bolted in the second nozzle there. Filled it up with Redline D4 ATF and set the bottle on a box higher than the transmission. I punched in a small air hole and let gravity do the work. It took about a hour.

I had the car on floor jacks and used a 12 inch carpenter level with the air bubbles and placed it along the bottom edge of the transmission to level it. I ended up having to lower the back of the car a couple of notches for where I had the floor jacks placed.

ATF, filter and gasket, and the the stuff from the hardware store all for less than $100.
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I learned yesterday that the filter & gasket for the 09M transmission installed in 3.6L 4motion Wagons are a different from the filter & gasket in 3.6L 4motion sedans--they're a little bigger. The part number for the filter is 09M 325 429. The gasket is also different but I don't have a part number for that. No idea if the larger wagon filter can be used in the sedans.

I had the fluid and filter changed on my wagon with 66,800mi on it. I've only had the car for a couple of months so I don't know its full history but I called the dealers that showed up on its Carfax and I'm 99% sure that the fluid and filter were both original. Before the change I could hear some transmission whine on acceleration, and after the change it's gone. I'll be getting the fluid and filter changed every 40,000mi from now on.
 

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jddaigle,

Let me first apologize for answering your question quite a bit late - had some other commitments. I have four 1.5 or 2 ton jackstands. I extended them all the same length and then I raised the front first and put them in. Then I did the same with the back.

If you look at the plastic trim under the front and back door, you’ll find two arrows pointing down on the trim – one in the front and the other one in the back. That is where a scissor jack would be used to raise the car when you change a tire. Those are the places I placed all jackstands at.

I also protected the car with some rags I put on the jackstands, but some paint still came off. I think it would be a good idea to clean that area once you bring the car back down and apply some rust treatment (such as Permatex Rust Treatment) followed with a bit of rubberized spray to ward off any rust. I changed my ATF last summer, and I’ll do this ASAP.
Better yet, I might splurge and buy POR15 starter kit and apply it in those areas.
 

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How the trans fluid change holding up for you guys, any issues since you've change the fluid?
BADANTH,

I've done mine last summer - have not had any issues so far. No oil drips, and shifting's been smooth. Just make sure you get what VW calls for.
 

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Thanks Kreka--what I was actually wondering is where you put the jack if the jack stands went in the factory jacking positions? I've heard that people use the rear inside pivot of the front control arms on the front, but I'm curious about the back.
 

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At the front, I raised the car at the control arm mounting brackets. I suppose that sounds like the rear inside pivot of a control arm. The car is not that heavy in the back, so I set the jack right underneath the rear suspension coil springs, jacked it up high enough so I could slip jackstands in and slowly lowered it. If you need some pics, let me know.
 

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What mileage did y'all perform the flush? I'm going on 89k on my 06 and I'm debating wether or not it's too late to flush:confused:
Not too late. Did mine last year with Blauparts kit at same time as timing belt change at 51k mile.
VWoA letter says do it at every 40k. Was inspired by this thread.
Even with USPS to UK for both kits from US (Blauparts insisted I have their 6L of ATF as part of their pre-packed kit) and using a VAG-trained indie shop, saved £88 over main dealer prices. And that's with a new AST 6262/2 tool and hose

ATF was blackened, and there were iron filings caught around pan magnets, and grot on pan and filter
Apart from a couple of lumpy changes coming back from workshop (rush hour) all's been fine since. And I like to use my Tip's paddles

Dealers over here were saying at the time "it's sealed for life, sir". Yeah, right. How long's life? :poke:

See also: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5830344-PSA-Rust-Belt-6sp-TIP-owners-Check-Your-Oil-Cooler-Lineshttp://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5830344-PSA-Rust-Belt-6sp-TIP-owners-Check-Your-Oil-Cooler-Lines
 

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Thanks for the guide! I did the change at 112,000 miles (not sure if the previous owner did the change at all, I got the vehicle at 110,000). The fluid came out dark red but you could still see red. I'm guessing it didn't oxidize too much. Both magnets were completely caked with filings and the mesh in the filter itself only had one or two pieces of debris. I'm guessing that is normal wear and tear, but I'm not a transmission expert.

As an engineer, I can't believe any company would try to guarantee a mechanical fluid for life.
 

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I just wanted to post that I did the fluid change and thank for this post. My experience: I followed the instructions closely and had no problems. The fluid was dark dark red but not black. I decided not to buy the filler tool because I remeberd seeing something that resembled filler tube on the side of the transmission. I was right. The filler tube made it a lot easier! See pic. I guess the "older" models have it.

The magnets were covered in very fine particles but were not double in size like someone previously mentioned. I used the plastic see thorough hose from Home Depot to put 4l of new fluid in. 3.5 came out after draining it. After i did the measuring part .5l came out making it exactly what I drained. Thats the "bad"part about it. Only half was changed but I guuess better than none. IMG_20130901_103247.jpg
 

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I forgot to mention that the part with red cap is the filler tube. I noticed there is a sensor next to it, probably atf temperature sensor that could be used to re fill the transmission instead of buying the tool.

Also my car is 2006 with 130k km.

I noticed smoother shifts after about a week of changing it. Immediately after seemed the same. I know because I had a jerk from 2 to 3. Now it's gone.
 

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I also have a 06 Passat and am getting ready to do the tranny flush and would prefer to do it this way rather than the messy drain tube method. How do you open the red cap? Do you twist it or is there another way
 

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I also have a 06 Passat and am getting ready to do the tranny flush and would prefer to do it this way rather than the messy drain tube method. How do you open the red cap? Do you twist it or is there another way
Ditto. Wonder if rboss would mind chiming in again?
 

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Ricardovsanto,

Did you use regular hand tools to change the solenoid bushings or did you have all the specialty tools to disassemble the solenoids and replace the bushings? I need to do the same thing to my 09G and noticed Makco Transmission makes a "starter kit" that includes a single tool, reamer and the bushings. I also noticed a couple YouTube videos that show there are quite a few specialty tools that are used in that process. Just wondering if I can get the job done with that "starter kit" and regular hand tools.

Thank You
 
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