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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Quick question for those that have done the rear struts on the 4motion. I've re-assembled my first strut, but the 'hat' is sitting a bit cock-eye'd. Is that normal? Or is the hat tweaked? I can't remember what it looked like when i took it out of the car. :/




You can really tell when you look at the strut sleeve relative to the strut:




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Agree w/Mtech.

I loathe using that style of spring compressor...even though I use a cheapo Harbor Freight impact wrench and some electrical tape (prevents each compressor jaw from moving away from 180 degrees opposed on the spring while compressing).
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Agree w/Mtech.

I loathe using that style of spring compressor...even though I use a cheapo Harbor Freight impact wrench and some electrical tape (prevents each compressor jaw from moving away from 180 degrees opposed on the spring while compressing).

Ugh, I know. I'd like to have a standing compressor where you can just load em in. But I can't justify the space required for the number of strut/springs I do. Any other suggestions?
 

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Biggest hassle with these is since they are not fastened to anything, they'll move on the spring...if they get ~150 degrees apart due to moving, you'll just about have to start over as you won't be moving them back to 180.

I wrap 4-5 layers of electrical tape [8-10 inch length] at one spot for each jaw (3 or 4 spots on the spring coil) so the jaws won't move downhill on the srping as easily. The tape stops the jaw from moving down - best to apply the 4-5 layers of tape just after positioning both compressors 180 degrees apart. After the new strut is in and the compressors are off, use a razor blade to cut the electrical tape off. It's ghetto, I'll admit, but I only do one or two strut swaps every ~10 years at best.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Biggest hassle with these is since they are not fastened to anything, they'll move on the spring...if they get ~150 degrees apart due to moving, you'll just about have to start over as you won't be moving them back to 180.

I wrap 4-5 layers of electrical tape [8-10 inch length] at one spot for each jaw (3 or 4 spots on the spring coil) so the jaws won't move downhill on the srping as easily. The tape stops the jaw from moving down - best to apply the 4-5 layers of tape just after positioning both compressors 180 degrees apart. After the new strut is in and the compressors are off, use a razor blade to cut the electrical tape off. It's ghetto, I'll admit, but I only do one or two strut swaps every ~10 years at best.
That's a great suggestion. I'll give it a shot when i unload the right side. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So I got the struts back in the car, and you guys were totally right. If I had been paying attention when I took the struts out, I would have seen there is a tilt to the hat/car interface that you need to match with the way you built the strut back.



To get the correct hat orientation when the strut is re-assembled, orient the spring thusly:

Right side rear: Lower spring end points IN towards center of car
Left side rear: Lower spring end points OUT
 
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