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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've blown the 2nd VCG in 40k, so I figure I have a PCV issue. ('04 AWM.)

Well, in the course of disassembling to find the problem, I managed to break the Suction Jet Pump in two. Apart from the fact that it had all the appearance of being press-fit together due to some truly inadequate construction, it was as clean as the day it left the VW factory. Not even the barest film of oil in that thing. The bright orange check-valve-ish things were still perfectly fresh. (I've patched it up with superglue long enough to go buy a new one...)

Do I go for that monster pipe coming out of the crank case just "up" from the oil cooler next?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Was the little metal tube in the suction pump still in place? I had a problem with mine just like in this tread:

http://www.passatworld.com/forums/68-b5-garage/235011-how-does-suction-jet-pump-work.html

That metal piece (circled in yellow in the thread) clogged the opening, and although the pump looked clean, it didn't work and caused my VCG's to fail
Well, I'm off to the dealer now to pick up a new one (along with a Hazard switch; my turn signals are currently possessed; intermittent fast-blink while I'm just driving)... I'll let you know when I have it apart again.
 

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Dude, I have my old one if you want it. Come by and pick it up sometime. It's in good shape, I just replaced it last April for the hell of it. I decided to be try to be proactive and replace it before it failed. I should have had the same mindset when it came to the PCV valve in September. Oops :)
 

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If the jet pump looks fine couldn't there be a blockage before the jet pump in the system? Like at the 3 way fitting or something? Much harder to get to though :wrench:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Heh... yes, of course the PCV valve would be suspect. I've spent quite a while today poring over old posts to try and figure out which of the many parts labeled "valve" is the actual PCV. We have the "Bleeder Valve", "Pressure Regulating Valve", or one or more of the "Check Valves". You can't go by what's connected to a "breather hose" or "breather tube" because that covers about half the hoses under the hood.

I've come to the conclusion it's the "Bleeder Valve." So, that part will be the subject of my next extraction attempt... I hope I don't destroy any other parts, other than clamps, in the process.
 

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Yes, bleeder valve.

The more you mess around down there, the more you'll break. Plastic lines get super brittle over the years. Generally best to just buy ahead of time and replace them all, hence link to 034motorsport's silicone kit.
 

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Btw, here is my post on all the stuff I did: http://www.passatworld.com/forums/4...odes-p0303-p1136-diagnosis-2.html#post2854400

Opted out of 034 b/c I was too chicken to remove the extra line splitting off AWM's bleeder valve - 034's metal billet valve doesn't accommodate. That line was added to our later engines to help mitigate sludge, which I already had probs with about 30k ago...certainly don't want to invite it again.

034's kit is only another $25 more than my total parts. Suggest calling or emailing them and asking if the regular plastic bleeder valve will fit properly in their hoses.
 

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Heh... yes, of course the PCV valve would be suspect. I've spent quite a while today poring over old posts to try and figure out which of the many parts labeled "valve" is the actual PCV. We have the "Bleeder Valve", "Pressure Regulating Valve", or one or more of the "Check Valves". You can't go by what's connected to a "breather hose" or "breather tube" because that covers about half the hoses under the hood.

I've come to the conclusion it's the "Bleeder Valve." So, that part will be the subject of my next extraction attempt... I hope I don't destroy any other parts, other than clamps, in the process.


In the above picture, #5, #6 (or 6a depending what year AWM you have) and #10 are probably completely stopped up or melted together. #10 is what connects to the side port on the suction jet pump. Be careful with #2, I've broken that piece both times I serviced my breather system. I cleaned my pressure regulating valve (#15) out, rather than replace it. On my 02 AWM, it's on the other side of the engine, so it may get as nasty as yours.
 

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#6A is what I'm talking about when I reference the extra line, btw. See the third prong? 034's metal billet doesn't accommodate that line.

When I have a garage to work in I plan on doubling back to clean #9, #13, #15, etc all the way through to #22. I just swapped out what was absolutely necessary at the time.

Imagine the full cleaning will be pretty nasty at 156k and counting. Will probably do that and VCG at same time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
If 6a is jammed up, will I also probably need to replace 24, or is the valve cover less subject to all this crud than the crankcase?

On another note, does anyone know the purpose of the parts of the system that go through the puck valve vs. those that go through the suction jet? I'm guessing that the puck is used for venting when there's no vacuum, while the suction jet vents when there is vacuum to draw it.
 

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On 24 just replace the check valve, rubber lines on either side of it were in good shape - I just cleaned them out. You'll probably break the check valve when doing all this anyways, those also get crazy brittle over time.

No clue on purpose of puck valve vs suction jet pump, I just changed what PZ suggested changing and intend on cleaning everything else. :p
 

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I just did my SJP just the other day (supposedly as PM but it turned out the venturi was clogged shut). It was working when I did my VCG a while back, but afterwards I noticed a small weep of oil outside the CCT half moon and really got annoyed. It's is so annoying that the best evidence of a blocked PCV system is a leak on your VC.

You need to have both paths to the intake unblocked (through the SJP and through the puck) as they take care of vapor under different conditions.

A few other comments:
- it is not necessarily true that if the SJP is clogged the bleeder valve will be too. On mine the SJP was clogged but the valve was just weak but still functioning (I replaced that also).

- I still have the original rubber hoses on mine and they are all fine (until they are not). I don't get what problem silicon hoses fix, especially given that they weep oil vapor over time.

- there are enough diffs on the B5 engines in terms of the circuitry there to confuse things. I just noticed on the diagram above that the bleeder valve has a nipple on the side to take care of vapor from the valve cover, which are not applicable to my engine as an example.

- in general, you want to start with everything that leaves the block and trace the paths to the intake and make sure the components there have a good seal and are not clogged.

- I personally don't find it that difficult to service the system any more, sad as it may sound.

- I did some other work in that area and discovered to my horror that on a manual tranny there are a couple of largish openings in the clutch housing big enough to swallow nuts, bolts and washers from above as you remove them. I always use magnetic tools but going forward I will have a magnetic pickup attached to all small parts. Two bolts landed right next to these openings (like, 0.5 mm away) but I lost a small washer and can't find it. :icon_eek:
 

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Also, number 13 may be junk as well. I put a finger right through mine while poking around the engine one day. First PCV bit I replaced. I also have to replace the breather tube (2), 3 way valve housing (5) and bleeder (6 not 6a in my 01.5 AWM). Gonna do it without removing the intake manifold to practice my contortionist skills :D.
 

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- I still have the original rubber hoses on mine and they are all fine (until they are not). I don't get what problem silicon hoses fix, especially given that they weep oil vapor over time.
Silicon is primarily for plastic breather tube (#2) and t-housing. #2 is what broke on mine and gave me very rough idle, flashing CEL, etc. Since I had to replace it, I just did the whole line...kept my original #10 (rubber) as a just-in-case since it was in decent shape.

Would have been physically impossible to keep t-housing in tact, it was melted to #9. Imagine silicon fares much better.

Silicon is so you're one and done. There's a slim chance I have to swap my stuff out AGAIN since I used OEM plastic replacements instead of 034 silicon (imagine I'd have to hit 250k before worrying about it though).
 

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In the 6A "valve" on the T part is that supposed to be see through or should it have something to regulate passage?
is it called PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation or Pressure Control Valve) valve?
What part number is it?

pretty please with sugar on top
Can't pass Smog & have an incomplete registration
 

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I recently had a check valve needing replacement. I bought the 034 pcv/breather hose kit and asked a local, nationally recognized shop to install the entire kit while they were in there replacing the check valve, wanting to upgrade to the silicone hoses.... the mechanic at the shop (even though they sell the kit themselves!) refused to install it!
 
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