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Discussion Starter #1
So I have a 2005 Wagon with door sensor/lock issues. Here are my issues:

1. Neither driver's front nor passenger's front door opening or closing will trigger the interior lights (annoying in the winter, particularly with a dark interior). Interior lights work just fine with the rear doors and when the key is removed.
2. Passenger front door lock will not lock or unlock with the rest of the electric lock door locks. Drivers side works fine.

Suggestions? Favorite blow-by-blow instructions on how to address these issues? Tips, tricks, etc on this would be appreciated.
 

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This should get you started:

 

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Discussion Starter #3
Just as a followup. This car has been garaged for the majority of its life and it has not experienced any known moisture problems in the last 120K miles of its life (currently ~150K miles). The first 30K were again garaged, but not within the family. So water intrusion is not currently suspected.

So the combo of these symptoms yields a definite diagnosis to replace or look at the solder within the modules?
 

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So the combo of these symptoms yields a definite diagnosis to replace or look at the solder within the modules?
That would be my guess. I wouldn't bother with replacing the module - they are quite expensive - and re-flowing the solder is an easy job.
 

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Door lock modules are very likely the issue.

For the driver's door, an easy test: does the puddle light come on? It's wired directly to the switch in the lock module, which grounds one side of the lamp socket when the door is open. The puddle light comes out from the bottom (slide forward or rearward, I forget which, opposite end "hinges" out) if you want to check the lamp.

For passenger door: does it lock/unlock from that door? That should work as long as the door has power; if not, lock module.
 

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So I have a 2005 Wagon with door sensor/lock issues. Here are my issues:

1. Neither driver's front nor passenger's front door opening or closing will trigger the interior lights (annoying in the winter, particularly with a dark interior). Interior lights work just fine with the rear doors and when the key is removed.
2. Passenger front door lock will not lock or unlock with the rest of the electric lock door locks. Drivers side works fine.

Suggestions? Favorite blow-by-blow instructions on how to address these issues? Tips, tricks, etc on this would be appreciated.
2: replace door lock actuator.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
And just another few touch points of info. The alarm will not activate if the passenger side door lock is open. If I manually press the door lock down and lock the car, the alarm activates. If I do not have the passenger side door lock pressed in, the alarm will not activate. So there is a sensor that is working on the passenger side door that can very clearly tell if it is locked or not, just the door lock actuator does not appear to be working and the interior light is not being activated when the door is opened.

I will check the puddle light for the drivers side door, it currently does not work, but I have not checked to see if the bulb is functional. The remote does work the drivers side door lock, so that is functional.

An overall concern is that neither of the front doors will ever turn on the interior lights in the car (they function just fine with the rear doors and the ignition key). The interior lights are something that I really would like to fix the first time if I were to open the door panels. What I really am afraid of is tearing the doors apart, then being unable to get either the interior lights or the locks to work and then putting all this back together still broken...

Is the solder joint issue around both the lock setup and interior light setup?
 

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(snip) What I really am afraid of is tearing the doors apart, then being unable to get either the interior lights or the locks to work and then putting all this back together still broken...

Is the solder joint issue around both the lock setup and interior light setup?
Yes, the door latch module contains the lock/unlock motor and microswitches for "locked," & "door open," plus key activated "lock" & "unlock" for the driver's door (pictured below). The connector is soldered to a circuit board that holds the microswitches, except one (door open) connected with leads.

There's a risk you may have to disassemble the door more than once. One of my door latch modules wouldn't activate the locked or unlocked switch(es) because of a broken plastic piece.

97808
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So anyone have negative experiences with the inexpensive actuators available online for ~$50 from a variety of vendors? If they are decent, I may get them and keep the repaired old ones as backups...
 

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Everything I've read here over the past 10 years says Avoid them like the Plague!

Way too many posts here along the lines of "I put in an eBay door latch and now I can't open the door." Of course, the screws that secure the door latch are only accessible with the door open, so it puts you in a tough spot.

Buy a used genuine part and repair it if necessary. www.car-part.com is a good resource (scrap yard inventory search)
 

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the nine dollar one i put in my friends accord has been working like a champ...also, - screw your honda engineers that came up with that design. the amount of the door that you need to take apart to get the actuator out is nuts.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Haha on Honda engineers. While I can't say that I've had much trouble disassembling Hondas (a Volvo 740 heater core job takes the cake), the one Honda that we have owned since new and taken care of religiously, has been the least reliable car I have ever owned (and we've owned a LOT of cars over the years). My '58 MGA was far more reliable in every aspect, not to mention my early 90's and mid 80's BMWs with 322K and (RIP due to deer strike) 650K respectively or Volvos or even Chevys. I'll never own another Honda unless someone gives me an NSX or gifts me a really nice old CRX SI (those were a hoot to drive).

It is annoying how little design work seemingly goes into considering access and repairability in the Audi/VW line. The doors are a classic case of 'what were they thinking'. Opening a door really is an essential and to design a single electrical part with plastic fittings that would prevent access to the door was just unreal foolish...
 

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If you take out the lock/latch you will see a pair of wires, one blue and one red. The blue one completes the circuit letting the CCM know that the door is open. I contemplated purchasing those micro-switches from ebay and replacing the one in the lock/latch = soldering and possibly drilling out rivets. I think I will hit the U-Pull-It JY and grab another complete part in the near future. BTW this right front lock was causing the puddle light to stay on constantly and the CCM saw the Passenger Front Door Open. I snipped the blue wire for now.
 
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