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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone. I've been trying to find out why my car all of a sudden won't start or turn over. The lights, dash lights, windows, and door locks work.

What was done to it so far
• checked and replaced starter
• replaced ignition switch
• checked all fuses with voltmeter
• checked battery ground wire and terminals
• checked alternator

I haven't gotten to any of the relays yet. I'm not sure if it could be the ignition lock cylinder or possibly something to do with the fuel pump but if anyone has any suggestions I need all the help I can get.

Also it will not start when trying to jump it which the battery was tested and is new. Voltage read 12.4
 

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So the starter was checked and found to be faulty, so it was replaced? Who did that work? That would be unusual if the starter was bad and it was replaced and the car still would not crank. I might question the installation.

Anyways, after what has already been checked and replaced, you have probably narrowed it down to a relay. The relays in positions 12 and 13 are suspects. Beyond that, I think you are looking at deep electrical problems or a bad ECM.

Did you scan for diagnostic codes?
 

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Tom has spoken.
 

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Check and try as Tomvw suggests.

Also, does the fuel pump run when you first turn the key on? It should run only for a couple of seconds. You'll need to be in relatively quite environment to hear it.
 

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A 2005 won't have a relay in position #12 (alarm relay); that was eliminated in 2003.

So, the starter circuit, i.e. getting power to the starter solenoid, depends only on the ignition switch and the transmission interlock. That's the clutch pedal switch for manual, Park/Neutral switch for automatic transmission.

And, of course, the starter has to be getting a good, low resistance connection to the battery, both +12V and ground, in order to crank.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So the starter was checked and found to be faulty, so it was replaced? Who did that work? That would be unusual if the starter was bad and it was replaced and the car still would not crank. I might question the installation.

Anyways, after what has already been checked and replaced, you have probably narrowed it down to a relay. The relays in positions 12 and 13 are suspects. Beyond that, I think you are looking at deep electrical problems or a bad ECM.

Did you scan for diagnostic codes?
The old starter was checked after removal and was still good and same with the new starter. Even when we try to force start the starter the car will not crank but the starter will turn. Havent checked codes yet. Need to get a vagcom. How do you find out if it's a bad email? I'm thinking possible electrical problem or ignition cylinder
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So the starter was checked and found to be faulty, so it was replaced? Who did that work? That would be unusual if the starter was bad and it was replaced and the car still would not crank. I might question the installation.

Anyways, after what has already been checked and replaced, you have probably narrowed it down to a relay. The relays in positions 12 and 13 are suspects. Beyond that, I think you are looking at deep electrical problems or a bad ECM.

Did you scan for diagnostic codes?
The old starter was checked after removal and was still good and same with the new starter. Even when we try to force start the starter the car will not crank but the starter will turn. Havent checked codes yet. Need to get a vagcom. How do you find out if it's a bad email? I'm thinking possible electrical problem or ignition cyli
It is NOT a bad ECM !
Is it manual or auto ?
Does it have a relay in position #12 ?
Try a bridge across relay #12 socket.

Stop replacing parts without diagnosis.
It is an auto and I do believe there is a #12 relay. I havent purchased any other parts. Just been trying to figure out some ideas before actually taking it in. I'm sure I have a code reader i can get my hands on to check
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Check and try as Tomvw suggests.

Also, does the fuel pump run when you first turn the key on? It should run only for a couple of seconds. You'll need to be in relatively quite environment to hear it.
I will check what tom has suggested. The fuel pump does engage but I found that the relay for it is bad. Checked fuel pump by sticking wires in the relay holes and heard it engage
 

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Discussion Starter #10
A 2005 won't have a relay in position #12 (alarm relay); that was eliminated in 2003.

So, the starter circuit, i.e. getting power to the starter solenoid, depends only on the ignition switch and the transmission interlock. That's the clutch pedal switch for manual, Park/Neutral switch for automatic transmission.

And, of course, the starter has to be getting a good, low resistance connection to the battery, both +12V and ground, in order to crank.
I do know the battery its giving off the right amount of volts and everything that has to do with a light window or lock works inside but will have to check the volts for the ground wire. I did replace the ignition switch and thought it could be the ignition lock cylinder but never thought about the trans switch. So if it is the trans switch is that why nothing is engaging without being forced. Even when we force started the starter the car still wouldn't crank
 

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Remove relay #13, and check the voltage at each of the 4 pins while holding the key in the start position.
 

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You fuel pump relay is probably good, I suggest you do NOT replace it at this stage, it can't prevent cranking.
Is there a relay in position #12 on the "13 position relay plate" ?
 

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My son had the same issue with his 2000 Passat 1.8T. Turned out there is a fuse to the right of the radio somewhere that shuts down the ignition. He broke the glove compartment light getting at it, so be careful if you determine that’s a possibility.

You’d have to search YouTube or the net for more specifics,unless someone on here knows more.
 

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Heather, not for nothing but you may want to pick up a generic code reader if you can’t get a VagCom. I paid like $75 and I’ve used it dozens of times over the last few years. They’re not the end-all, but they can be very helpful in pointing you in the right direction.
 

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Heather, not for nothing but you may want to pick up a generic code reader if you can’t get a VagCom. I paid like $75 and I’ve used it dozens of times over the last few years. They’re not the end-all, but they can be very helpful in pointing you in the right direction.
or $15 or so from amazon/eBay for an ELM327 with bluetooth (android) or wifi (iPhone) interface to use with a smartphone app. OBD auto doctor for iOS and Torque pro for Android are my go to apps.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Heather, not for nothing but you may want to pick up a generic code reader if you can’t get a VagCom. I paid like $75 and I’ve used it dozens of times over the last few years. They’re not the end-all, but they can be very helpful in pointing you in the right direction.
Yes I definitely need to get me a code reader for the future. The car is in the shop now. Just waiting on a diagnosis. They said more than anything it sounded like an electrical problem. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #18
My son had the same issue with his 2000 Passat 1.8T. Turned out there is a fuse to the right of the radio somewhere that shuts down the ignition. He broke the glove compartment light getting at it, so be careful if you determine that’s a possibility.

You’d have to search YouTube or the net for more specifics,unless someone on here knows more.
Thanks for the info. My car is in the shop now which I'll have to ask him about that. That's the only fuse I didn't check or know about. He did say he thinks it's an electrical issue. I will post whenever I get more results. Thanks again
 

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Discussion Starter #19
You fuel pump relay is probably good, I suggest you do NOT replace it at this stage, it can't prevent cranking.
Is there a relay in position #12 on the "13 position relay plate" ?
The car is in the shop now. I'm waiting on a diagnosis. As for the relay positions I'm not 100% sure about until I speak with them. I will take your suggestion to keep the fuel pump relay. Only info I have so far is they think it's an electrical issue. I will post when I know more. Thanks again for the help
 

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Don't know if this will help, but here's what happened to my 2000 with 1.8T ATW engine. Car was fine before battery went dead after sitting a long time. Had to jump start it.

After that, car would start one time only. After shutting it off, it would crank but not start again unless I either disconnected battery or unplugged ECU for a few minutes. Then, it would start again once but not a second time.

I had to replace the ECU. Got a used one and made sure it matched the part number of the one coming out. It was plug and play and the problem never came back.
 
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