[w_w_w_31]

Got a problem. I recently bought a 2005 with a 1.8, and less than a 1,000 miles later, the engine seized. I have not tore into it to verify exactly what happened, but I suspect it was due to lack of oil, due to the sludge issue from any of a laundry list of possibilities. I'm not here to discuss that part. All I am interested in is from here forward.

What should I do, as far as getting it up and running again? It is an automatic, AWM. I am on a budget, and pretty much anything is going to be a stretch right now, but oh well. Neither the wife or I are happy, or anything else near that.

Same engine, something else, bigger turbo, ERG system, intercooler? Since I basically have a "clean slate", what are my real options? I want it to be a daily driver, get decent mileage, and am not too concerned about squeezing every possibly bit of HP out of it.

The car currently has 112,xxx on the ticker, and I did change the tranny fluid/filter twice so far, both times adding Trans Tune to help clean the crap out, since I was the first one to do anything to the tranny.

Thanks for your help.

dave

 

[Steve in Chicago]

On a budget, look for a used replacement engine you can afford. Going big turbo, FMIC and such is just going to add to the cost of the project.

Are you sure it's seized or is it simply not starting? You may have lost the timing belt and merely need a replacement head & timing belt.

 

[w_w_w_31]

[/QUOTE]Going big turbo, FMIC and such is just going to add to the cost of the project.

Are you sure it's seized or is it simply not starting? You may have lost the timing belt and merely need a replacement head & timing belt.[/QUOTE]


Really, I am not going to get any performance changes from the big turbo?

Oh ya, it's seized. I'm extremely certain of that. Also, it is not starting.......

 

[GLInick]

what steve said. you should first establish what the damage is and go from there. there is no reason to go spending money for an engine if you can repair what you have.

once you get this up and running in stock config drive it around for a while and then go from there.

there is no point in thinking about a big turbo when there is nothing there to blow it.

 

[vdubdad]

What they said.

Pull the spark plugs and see if it turns over (charge battery first)

If nothing, pull cambelt cover and see if there-s a timing belt there-or pieces of it.

drain the oil and see if there is water/antifreeze in it.



take it from there

 

[w_w_w_31]

Doesn't turn over. Timing belt is intact.

 

[w_w_w_31]

Apparently I didn't make it clear what I am looking for. I want advice on what to do about a replacement engine. The one currently in the car is toast. I can spend $500 and a pile of time to figure out exactly what happened, and why it happened, and I am still sitting with a dead engine. I want to move past that point right now, and get moving on a replacement.

The one in the car is an AWM. What should I look for? And what other parts should I consider replacing/servicing in the process?

Thank you.

dave

 

[Steve in Chicago]

There were two block styles used. The 058 in the older cars and the 06A in the newer cars. Your AWM is the newer style so you're looking for an 06A block. You'll want to get one from the same transmission type as your car has. The end of the crank is different between the manual and automatic cars. The manual has a spot for a pilot bearing. People have converted from auto to manual and there is a way to machine the crank end to accept a pilot bearing. If you're going from manual to auto, it may or may not need some adaption. Someone who has done this swap will know better than I do.

 

[Steve in Chicago]

Apparently I didn't make it clear what I am looking for. I want advice on what to do about a replacement engine. The one currently in the car is toast.

The reason people are asking for specifics and suggesting you diagnose further is because we don't know what you know. You're 6 posts new and we have no idea if you're diagnosis is correct or if the words you're using have the same meaning to you as they do to others. When you say the engine is "seized", it could mean the thing is now one solid block of metal (that's my definition). Or maybe the starter is bad and won't spin the engine over and you are calling this "seized". Or maybe the engine turns over and over but just doesn't fire up and run and you are calling this "seized". We get new people all the time who use different terms for different things and that typically leads to people giving incorrect advice. No one wants to tell you to replace the engine if it turns out you only needed a replacement starter. You may be a master mechanic. You may not know which end of a screwdriver to hold. We have no idea and we don't want to steer you in the wrong direction. The people here are just looking out for your best interests.

 

[Steve in Chicago]

Really, I am not going to get any performance changes from the big turbo?

Oh, you'll absolutely get performance gains from a bigger turbo. But you're also looking at including all the supporting modifications that go with it to make it work correctly. These engines are a matched system and upgrading something like the turbo requires other upgrades to keep the system matched. If you want to run a different turbo, the first step up is to switch from the stock K03 to a K04 (plus tune and whatever modifications the tune calls for). Bigger than that is a FrankenTurbo or eliminator series turbo (plus tune and whatever modifications the tune calls for). Bigger than that (GT-28 or 30 series turbo or a T3/4) and you're looking at more extensive supporting modifications (much more $$$).

You said you were on a budget, so the least expensive way to get the car back on the street is to keep it stock. All that above stuff is great, but most of it isn't practical if your primary goal is, "What do I need to get it running again for the least amount of money". On the other hand, if you're using this as an opportunity to build it some because you're being forced to put money into it anyhow, then you do have some options. The first things to decide on are how much you're willing to spend and how much power are you after. Do some research and figure out what tune gets you that much power. Then see what turbo and supporting mods are required for that tune. Then add up what all those parts cost and see if it falls into your budget.

APR - High Performance Development for Audi, VW and Porsche Vehicles.

VW, Audi, Porsche Chip Tuning / Performance ECU Software ? by Unitronic

GIAC - Automotive Performance Software Tuning

Revo | Innovative Hardware and Software Products for Audi, Ford, Porsche, SEAT, Skoda and VW vehicles

Or, find someone that can write a custom tune for whatever hardware you want to use.

 

[scotts13]

Easy answer to your question, without trying to help by confirming your diagnosis: 1. Buy a used AWM. 2. Open hood, insert engine. 3. If you've done everything right (and gotten a little lucky) the car will start and run properly. THEN, catch up on every single bit of maintenance and repair on the car, and come back to ask about performance parts.

 

[sirwired]

I'm with the others; if you are on a budget, and the engine is truly toasted, buy a replacement and put it in the car. Pretty much any performance upgrades to the engine will drive up the cost. (As in, a big turbo (which won't be cheaper than a stock K03) will require chipping and some fueling parts in order to make the car run faster.)

 

[jollyrogers]

If you are set on finding a Used engine, try this site and enter your info

Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market

It is an online listing to junk yards all across the U.S. and Canada.

 

[vdubdad]

Replace the engine with same-
Replace timing belt and water pump before installing the replacement engine. This for peace of mind and not have timing belt on replacement engine brake in 2 weeks and take the replacement with it.

 

[w_w_w_31]

I have found a replacement engine, AWM, but it is for a manual transmission. My car is an automatic. What is the modification I am going to need to do to make it work?

dave

 

[vdubdad]

See Steve in Chicago's post #8.

Personally, I'd keep looking for an Auto trans engine, but that's just me.

find a parts breakdown or stop at your local Vdub dealer and check crankshaft part numbers. If they are not different between manual and auto-you are good to go.

A manual transmission requires a pilot bearing or bushing in the crankshaft end (No, I don't know why). Most car manufacturers will use 1 crankshaft in their engines-The crank will be machined to accept the pilot bearing. The end of the torque converter will fit into this machined recess on automatic trans applications.

Hope this is kind of clear.

 

[jollyrogers]

See Steve in Chicago's post #8.

Personally, I'd keep looking for an Auto trans engine, but that's just me.

find a parts breakdown or stop at your local Vdub dealer and check crankshaft part numbers. If they are not different between manual and auto-you are good to go.

A manual transmission requires a pilot bearing or bushing in the crankshaft end (No, I don't know why). Most car manufacturers will use 1 crankshaft in their engines-The crank will be machined to accept the pilot bearing. The end of the torque converter will fit into this machined recess on automatic trans applications.

Hope this is kind of clear.

The input shaft of the transmission goes into the pilot bearing in the Crankshaft on a manual transmission. The Input shaft rides on the pilot bearing and the front main bearing in the transmission when changing gears. This keeps it in line while the clutch is spinning freely (disengaged). I believe most of the Automatic Crankshafts do not even have a place for the pilot bearing so the Auto will not work in a Manual, not sure about the other way around though.