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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am going to document what I'm doing to this car. I bought it last week and it has a few issues that I need to fix before I hand it over to my wife for her daily driver.

List of issues:
  • Vacuum leaks (causes rough Idle and I'm assuming the error codes which I'll list below)
  • Gas fills very slow
  • Rear brake squealing
  • When heater or AC is not on recirculation smell of fumes or oil comes through vents
  • Front door electric locks don't work
  • Passenger rear window doesn't work
  • Rattling noise from engine (could be just from rough idle)
That's all I found so far. The car only has 120k miles on it and the timing belt was recently changed according to what's written on the timing belt cover.

The day I bought it and drove it home it was NOT idling rough. Although I did notice the check engine light on and the above mentioned smell of oil or fumes from the vents.

The first thing I noticed was the back brake squealing. When I got home I took it apart and inspected the rotor, pads and caliper. Other than being old and half way worn all I could see was that it was dirty. Cleaned it all and put it back together. Test drive squeal was gone. Then drove it about 40 miles and it was back. It only squeals when NOT applying the brake. I will probably just redo the back brake rotors and pads. Maybe calipers too. The front ones look like they were recently replaced.

Wife and I drove to neighboring town to do some shopping. Had the heater on and noticed fume smell from the heater vents, by the end of the 1 hrs round trip, we were both feeling a little weird and tired. I am concerned there is an exhaust leak getting through the heater vents. It seems 95% less with the heater on recirculation. This is my biggest concern I want to address before having my wife drive this car.

Took the car to auto zone yesterday had them check the codes. Here's a list of what it pulled:

  • P0300 (secondary DTC: p0300, p0030, p0301, p0303, p0304, p0302, p0299, p0300, p0030, p0301, p0303, p0304, p0302, 18265-003
  • 18265-035
Got home and thought I'd disconnect the battery to reset the codes, and see if the check engine light would still be on (seemed like something to do). When I took off the cover to access the battery I noticed that the battery compartment had LOTS of fire needles and leaves in there, so I removed the battery completely and vacuumed the crap out of there, unclogged the drain holes, replaced the battery. This took me about an hour.

When I restarted the car was when for the first time the rough Idle happened. And it continues. I can hear it misfiring as well. I believe this was from resetting the codes, as described here:
103438

I know there are some pretty bad vacuum leaks, and the seller informed me of this.

There were a few spots someone had put electric tape on cracked hoses (hilarious), and at least 1 or two spots someone had used baling wire instead of a hose clamp (wild).
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Here are some pictures of the main parts that are obviously leaking:
103439

103440

103441

103442

And some ******* fixes:
103443

103444


I am going to order the high temp 3.5 am silicone vacuum line off Amazon and replace all the small stuff to be safe.

These bigger elbows and Tees I am guessing I'll have to special order from a more legit site. I'll browse this site to find out where to source those.

Edit: removed the tape. One obviously is cracked. I could not see any cracks in the other that had tape on it.
103445

103446
 

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Correcting those broken hoses should go a long way towards improving the running. But also check the back of the cylinder head, where a half-moon shaped rubber plug should be. That came out on our car, causing the oil smell. If that's what happened, the PCV valve is likely plugged.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
For sure! I do plan on replacing the PCV valve as well anyway. But figured I'd start with the obvious stuff first.

I will check on that plug as well when I'm back in there, I'm assuming it's the valve cover plug?
 

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For sure! I do plan on replacing the PCV valve as well anyway. But figured I'd start with the obvious stuff first.

I will check on that plug as well when I'm back in there, I'm assuming it's the valve cover plug?
The half moon plug sits under the cam chain tensioner at the back. of the head
 

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Did you buy the car from Doyles-1.8T or just quote him? I'm pretty sure I did the timing belt on his car, but I usually put the sticker on the radiator carrier.

The air leak at the back of the manifold is the one to worry about the most. That's the power brake booster hose. The other 2 leaks are PCV (would leak some air) and SAIP system (would not leak any air).
 

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No to rain in your parade but I’d be concerned with all other maintenance done just by looking at these pictures… my 2 cents


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I have no illusions here. This was a cheap car so I'm expecting the worst.

Today I pulled that broken T to put the new one on. This is what I found.
103465

103467


Is this sludge buildup caused by a bad PCV valve or could that broken T have contributed?

Also what part # would that nasty valve thingy in the first picture be? I'm not sure what it's called.
 

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Pancake valve or Pressure relief valve. Under the intake in the "T", is the bleeder valve. That crud build up is just that. It happens and must be cleaned out. It is likely original, which is expected.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I plan on replacing the pcv valve and the hoses leading up to the T. Should I replace that pressure relief valve too?

And what is a good way to clean the pipes I'm not replacing such as the metal ones? Remove them and flush solvent through?
 

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I plan on replacing the pcv valve and the hoses leading up to the T. Should I replace that pressure relief valve too?

And what is a good way to clean the pipes I'm not replacing such as the metal ones? Remove them and flush solvent through?
The pressure relief valve is cheap and yes, I would just replace it. Amazon has some good prices and even rock auto, I think. The metal tube at the back is a pain to remove because of one bolt, but I would try to push a rag through it with something stiff but flexible. That should get most of it out. The kicker will be at the bottom of it where it makes a sharp 90° turn. The one at the front shouldn't be too bad to take off. Just be prepared to replace the rubber connector at the other end by the airbox.
 

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Oven cleaner (or if you like to live dangerously, lye) will clean the sludge well. Be careful with that stuff though and don't even think of using it unless you have the parts on a bench.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Cool, thanks for the input. I will see what works best probably not going to use lye though ;)

EDIT: So I'm going to order that pressure relief valve, figure I might as well order the PCV valve and replacement hoses while I'm at it.

On the engine I see the AWM engine code, I'm on the 034motorsport store and having a hard time figuring out what parts to get.

Does this look right?

Pressure Regulating Valve

Check Valve

Lower Block Breather Hose

Block to Intake Manifold Breather Hose

it seems like there are 2 basic different styles on that site, but when I look at the parts fitting AWM, it doesn't show it for 2005 so I'm confused.

Also It looks like these breather tubes replace some of the metal pipes so I wouldn't have to bother with cleaning them.

Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated. I am really thankful for your guys input so far. I don't have a shop indoor I can park the car in, and its raining right now so I can't do anything else on the car this week. But that should give me time to get the new parts in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Okay I'm confused here... There was break in the rain and I went out and replaced the two parts circled in red on the left side of the first picture I posted. The "T" that hooks up to the pancake valve, and the elbow that goes to the secondary air pump.

I ordered them the day after I got the car, as they were obviously broken so I thought I'd start there.

Reset the computer by unplugging negative battery terminal during the duration of installing these parts.

Went to start it up, it started right up, but then as soon as the secondary air pump turned off, about 20 seconds after startup, the engine began to run rough (more than ever before) and actually died. Tried starting it again, fired up, then died instantly.

What is going on here?

Was the giant crack in that part what was actually making the car run at all? And now that I put a good one in there its not?

Or did the car's computer learn to run with a giant leak in that part, and somehow disconnecting the battery didn't reset the computer?

EDIT: Turns out I reset the computer wrong! Forgot to touch the battery cables together before hooking them back up. After truly resetting the computer it's running much better. It must have been running on the old adjustment with the blown pcv hose.

Went back to Autozone rescanned the CEL codes and all that's coming up now is p0030.

Also picked up a evap canister at the wrecking yard for $35. Gas tank fills up in about 30 seconds now. No clicking off.

I think next I will tackle replacing the whole pcv system and as many if the vacuum hoses I can.
 

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The 05 should have the 3 prong PCV valve (listed as check valve). I expect you can plug the small hose for the 3rd port, but I have not done that on one.
 

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The 05 should have the 3 prong PCV valve (listed as check valve). I expect you can plug the small hose for the 3rd port, but I have not done that on one.
Actually, the 034 breather kit does just that. It replaces 3 port valve with the old design and you plug the port at the valve cover.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
For a 2005 1.8t AWM does the part list I posted a few posts up look right? I can't figure out how to quote on my phone...

And if so are there any other suggested parts while I'm at it? E.g. that seal on the rear of the housing.
 

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You can get a URO Parts 06A129101D PRV for pretty cheap just about any where.

The kit below contains the rest all together.
I got this one and it fit perfect. I have an early 04, but yours would be the same.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Awesome thanks!

Before you repliedI was just poking around on the car seeing what looked like a good fit, and that style of breather hose set looked like what's right for it.

Interesting discovery!
103476

103477

The Elbow that comes out of the block and attaches to the the Tee on the PCV breather hose is completely detached. Not sure if it just came loose, broke, or the baling wire guy unhooked it and never reattached it.

This car does have a reconstructed title due to a minor wreck. Hood and passenger headlight was replaced according to the guy I bought it from. So it's possible that stuff busted loose then.

Either way I'm going to order these parts and not start it up again til I get the PCV system replaced.

EDIT: And considering that was just open at the elbow I can see how that may account for a lot of the oil leaking causing the burning oil smell. We'll see.
 
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