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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Greetings

I have a 2004 Volkswagen Passat GLX 4Motion Sedan 2.8L V6 (B5) that is unable to start.

I have read through several of the posts here with similar issues, but no luck.

I have recently (3 months ago) replaced the ECS coolant temperature sensor, and the car has largely driven well since then. Last week I started it, it drove about 15 feet, and then it died. I have not been able to get it to start since.

I have checked fuse 28 (fuel pump) and it appears good. The voltage going to the fuel pump is ~10.5v when being cranked, and pins 1 - 4 on the fuel pump read 3.6ohms.

I do not believe I hear the pump engaging, but am not sure what it would sound like if it were.

The battery is less than 5 months old.

Any insights are appreciated!

Edit: coolant temperature sensor instead of ECS.
Used a Foxwell NT301 scanner and no codes found
 

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The 2004 is a B5.5.
What does ECS stand for ?

With 3.5 ohms and 10.5 volts applied, the fuel pump should be running.
Get someone to turn the key while you listen under the back of the car or in the trunk.
Or you could remove the fuel pump relay cover, and press the contacts closed to run the pump without cranking the engine.

Did you scan it with VCDS or other good VAG scanner ?
If not I suggest you do.

Check the ESS (Engine Speed Sensor) and its wiring & connectors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The 2004 is a B5.5.
What does ECS stand for ?
My mistake, I meant the coolant temperature sensor (not the engine coolant sensor)

Get someone to turn the key while you listen under the back of the car or in the trunk.
Or you could remove the fuel pump relay cover, and press the contacts closed to run the pump without cranking the engine.
Is the fuel pump relay in the trunk? I am not sure I understand what pressing the contacts closed means.

Did you scan it with VCDS or other good VAG scanner ?
I used a Foxwell NT301, and it did not find any codes

Check the ESS (Engine Speed Sensor) and its wiring & connectors.
Will check it out
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Tried methods in this thread, but no luck. I tried removing fuse 28 for about 30 seconds, then cranking it, then replacing the fuse. It started for about 1/4 a second and then back to no signs of life.
 

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It still sounds like flooding is likely.
Remove FP fuse, remove all spark plugs, crank with full throttle for 10 to 15 seconds several times.
Repeat cranking until there is no sign of fuel or vapour exiting the plug holes.
Report condition of plugs (are they wet).
Re-fit fuse and plugs, and try to start in normal manner.
 

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It still sounds like flooding is likely.
Remove FP fuse, remove all spark plugs, crank with full throttle for 10 to 15 seconds several times.
Repeat cranking until there is no sign of fuel or vapour exiting the plug holes.
Report condition of plugs (are they wet).
Re-fit fuse and plugs, and try to start in normal manner.
When I first became a member here, V6 flooding (heat soak) or whatever you want to call it, seemed to be somewhat of a common problem around here.
Never happened to me personally, but it is something to consider.
 

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Is the fuel pump relay in the trunk? I am not sure I understand what pressing the contacts closed means.
No the fuel pump relay is behind the dash (behind headlight switch area).
The fuel pump is inside the tank, accessible through the trunk floor via a large round rubber access plug.


I used a Foxwell NT301, and it did not find any codes
I would highly recommend VCDS Lite at minimum. It does a much better job at scanning and pulling ALL the codes that are present.
VCDS is a VW/Audi (cars made by VW) only software suite. Used by many a member here.
 

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Had also the problem of cranking but not starting. After a month of checking everything got the tip here about flooding. Starting the engine with trottle pedal to the floor, car starts within a few seconds. You can always try that.
 

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Had also the problem of cranking but not starting. After a month of checking everything got the tip here about flooding.
Whew, that was an adventure. Had the best of the best on this forum and that's all it turned out to be.
Just glad you got it going.

That's what makes this forum so great. Get some good people collaborating together and someway somehow the solution will be found.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Tried the flooding method but no luck. In the end I never figured it out and took it to the dealership. They said it was the fuel pump and the filter. So around 2k later it runs now.

My opinion: Replacing the fuel pump and the filter is an hour job tops, and you can buy both of those parts online for less than 200$ combined. So if you suspect it is that- just replace them before you bring it in.
 

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My opinion: Replacing the fuel pump and the filter is an hour job tops, and you can buy both of those parts online for less than 200$ combined. So if you suspect it is that- just replace them before you bring it in.
Hear that!
In 2013, 2014 can't remember which my 2004 Passat quit while I had carload full of people down in Santa Monica. I had but no choice to go to the dealership, $800 plus later for a fuel pump. That stung quite a bit. Talk about feeling violated.
 

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+1. My daughter had a carload full of team mates out in Kansas when her fuel pump died. The local Firestone fixed it for $750 or so in just a few hours, so all in all, not a bad outcome but...my son's Passat also had the fuel pump die and he was in town so I just had to get one from a boneyard and put it in. $50 for that one.

I understand why some people carry a spare. That and a screwdriver and a bit of know-how could save a lot of money and aggravation.
 

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Tried the flooding method but no luck. In the end I never figured it out and took it to the dealership. They said it was the fuel pump and the filter. So around 2k later it runs now.

My opinion: Replacing the fuel pump and the filter is an hour job tops, and you can buy both of those parts online for less than 200$ combined. So if you suspect it is that- just replace them before you bring it in.
Ouch. Personally I wouldn’t own a B5 if the dealer was the only option. There‘s usually a good supply of indies, if you can find a reasonably trustworthy one. It’s because of all the unreasonable repair costs that this forum is so popular. Wait till you start getting the $2500 quotes to replace front control arms.

Your initial troubleshooting was good. With power to the pump, it pretty much had to be the pump itself.
 

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Can't believe I found this site and this post and these comments just when my Pass at 4-motion GLX died at the repair shop last week. They think it's electrical and said it would take hours to figure out. Plus, I also need front suspension work (control levers mentioned here) and I have a leaking transmission line and there's a part needed that apparently no one even manufactures anymore. The car is now sitting in my garage after the shop said it's just not worth fixing. The body is in great shape and I love the car but unless I can fix it myself it seems headed to the scrap yard
 

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Can't believe I found this site and this post and these comments just when my Pass at 4-motion GLX died at the repair shop last week. They think it's electrical and said it would take hours to figure out. Plus, I also need front suspension work (control levers mentioned here) and I have a leaking transmission line and there's a part needed that apparently no one even manufactures anymore. The car is now sitting in my garage after the shop said it's just not worth fixing. The body is in great shape and I love the car but unless I can fix it myself it seems headed to the scrap yard
What part of the country are you located in? It sounds like your biggest problem is the repair shop.
At this point just focus on the no-start condition. As long as it wasn’t a jumped timing belt with bent valves, any competent shop should be able to solve it reasonably

You don’t want to scrap a generally good 4-Motion. If you’re losing the love, get it running and sell it.
 

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I'm in Syracuse, N.Y. Definitely not losing the love that's why I towed it to my garage and will try and fix it myself. Do you think it's worth it to invest in a Bentley manual as there's other repairs needed.
 

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Tried the flooding method but no luck. In the end I never figured it out and took it to the dealership. They said it was the fuel pump and the filter. So around 2k later it runs now.

My opinion: Replacing the fuel pump and the filter is an hour job tops, and you can buy both of those parts online for less than 200$ combined. So if you suspect it is that- just replace them before you bring it in.
Yeah dealer fuel pump assembly for your model are not cheap maybe $600 after dealer markup plus tax. Add labor to troubleshoot, replace the assembly and then replace the fuel filter to help lessen the stress on the new pump, parts & labor, it all adds up. $2K still sounds a little high even for a dealer unless you had more work done. Cheaper than renting a vehicle for a couple of weeks though. ;)
I suggest you find a good trustworthy shop in your area that will handle future issues with your Passat 2.8l.
This site https://www.cartalk.com/ might have some old Repair Shop recommendations in your area for your older vehicle. Always check the reviews especially the dates!
 
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