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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am in dire need of some real insight and suggestions regarding the sound sytem in the Passat. I bough some new speakers an amp and a basslink. Got the speakers in without problem. Here's where the problems started. Sorry for the length.

I took the car to Circuit City for the basslink and AMP install and they broke a frigging lock on the headunit trying to get it out. So I took it to my dealer to have them pop it out. They put the tools in and tried for about 5 minutes and then told me to go screw myself that it isn't supposed to be removed and they wouldn't remedy the problem. (Devon Hill Motors --- Stay away from these clowns). So I took it over to another dealership (YBH) and they pulled the car into the garage and worked on it for 45 minutes and couldn't get it out. They said to make an appointment and they would "bust it out" and replace it with a new one. Just a little background for my real questions.

So I have the new speakers in (Infinity Reference 6002i's) and the setup sounds really good. At this point I am debating on whether I really need to install a new amp (Alpine MRP-F240). Do you all think this is necessary? For those of you who have installed an aftermarket amp is the quality difference really going to be noticeable?

On to the basslink. I am definitely going to install this as the current setup doesn't really have enough bass for my liking. So what is the best way to go about doing this? If I don't do the 4 channel amp, I was just going to tap into the rear speakers and be done with it (obviously gonna run power from the battery up front). It seems that the basslink auto-senses current when using speaker level input so there will be no need for wiring the remote turn on.

For those of you who have installed amp's. Did you use a high-low converter and run RCA or did you just use speaker level input? Also where did you grab the remote turn on feed for the amp. I was thinking of doing this from the fuse box. What have others used? Is this the best way to do it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
After reading through more posts, it looks like the Alpine amp is a must due to thefact that I have already replaced the factory speakers and the monsoon amp crossover settings.

I also some refernces to a high-low converter by Blaupunkt, the one I have takes speaker level input and converts to rca and also has adjustments. This should work correct?

So how about the remote turn on? Can this be done from the fuse box? Or some place else. Since I have to rewire all the speakers and run rca convenience doesn't really matter
 

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I always recommend an amp on speakers. They will always make them sound better (given the equipment being used is good quality which in your case sounds like it s). This is even more important when keeping the stock radio.

It's all in how you want to do it. If using an exteranl LOC you have the choice of using a higher quality unit like an Audiolink or Soundgate piece. Amp manufactures usually don't seem to have upper level LOC's in their amps as they are more of a convience item. I would use an external one and run a decent set of rcas. If budget is a concern you can just tap into the speakers in the rear and run the wire to the amps loc. It will work fine, just not prefered.

As for the turn on lead, you need a switched 12v lead. You can tap into the ignition wire behind the radio or in the colomn, or tap into that fuse in the fuse box.

If you are doing all of this, why not just buy a nice radio to compliment everything. I think you would be much happier that way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Some updates.. not that anyone cares but:

Got the car back from the dealership today. They managed to get my radio out and replaced it, but in the process they scratched the hell out of the wood trim. So they ordered replacement trim to be installed at a later date. They had to make up some bogus story that the radio rattled just so they could get reimbursed for it. Such is life. At least they didn't charge me for it.

I also decided to go with an Alpine 9831 HU. I will post some pics when it is all complete.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The install is pretty close to being finished. I went down to CC today and had a look see at what they have done. Noticed they used the wrong metra antenna adapter (the one withour power) so I asked them to swap in a powered one. Another thing I noticed (heard) that was troubling was the beeping noises the car makes when the door is open and the key is in the ignition. I am wondering if some of the wiring is screwed up.

Here is the situation:
Door is open and key is in the ignition. Beep, beep, beep and all is normal. Now turn on the radio or open the glove box and the beeping skips a beat. beep, beep, bee beep. This happens when the car is off. Do you all think this is a problem or no big deal. What do you think is causing this. I am not sure what they tapped into to get the remote turn on for the amps and the radio, but my guess is the ignition. The amp wiring is low gauge (forget the exact number) Tsunami wiring and rated for two amps and is directly connected to the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
quality_sound said:
That beeping issue is normal. My bone stock 04.5 Variant does it.

Paul :thumbup:
Thanks for the reply. Haven't noticed it as much lately. The new system is up and running and oh my god what a difference a good head unit makes not to mention an amp and a small sub.

Although the Alpine 9831 doesn't mach perfectly in colors I don't think it looks that bad. The iPersonalize feature is cool and all but I have no clue how to work it really. I just know thet if I use the MX (media expander) feature, there is way to much going on. The whole freaking car explodes :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Here are some pics. Not the greatest setup but it works :)

The wood trim is being replaced tomorrow by VW. All the scratches you see by the rear defroster switch are from them removing the old Monsoon headunit.


 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The guys at crutchfield and circuit city said not to mount the amp on anything metal. I forget the exact reason why, but it sounded like one of those worst case scenarios this could happen type thing. Since the basslink had to go up front... so I could get to the spare, the seat was already blocked anyway.
 

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They were worried about a ground loop, but you'd have to really screw something up for it tobe an issue since the chassis gets grounded with the mounting screws anyway. :crazy: Good ole CC. :suspicio:


Paul :thumbup:
 

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So can you still adjust volume & change radio stations from the steering wheel? Did you just leave the old door-mounted tweeters where they are and just disconnected? Sorry for all the questions; I'm thinking of upgrading my system as well--after the suspension upgrade :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Can't use the controls on the steering wheel. Honestly I found them very useless. The controls would be great if you could change from one preset station to another instead of it seeking. With the changer in, even less usfeul since you have to press the disc number anyway to change cd's. I am sure there is an adaptor but for me it wasn't worth it.... even if it was free.

As far as the tweets go, just let em there and disconnected. The speakers I bought have tweeters on them already... coupled with HPF/LPF level settings on the HU and there is more than enough High and Mids.


I have to say the speaker wiring was a bitch. I am glad I didn't have to do it myself. It took them almost three full days for the entire install for which I paid a total of $140 bucks for.
 
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