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The Rubberband Man
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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

Today I made it out to Surgline Tuning in Tualatin, Oregon, to get my car on their AWD dyno. I recently added a custom Magnaflow cat-back exhaust, an Amsoil cone filter WITH a custom heat shield :))), and ECU software remapping.

So, I went and made some runs, just for kicks. Many thanks to Tim, Brandon, and Travis at Surgline- they really know their stuff!

Anyway, here are the results. Please chime in with your thoughts and observations.

254 wtq
224 whp
AFR 15.8






Am I too lean?
















Mike
 

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The Rubberband Man
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3,552 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
TIP, but don't hold that against me! :lol:


It was kept in 2nd gear during each run.
 

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308 Posts
In the past I saw a dyno chart for a stock w8 212 or 215 at the wheels.
One is on giac for the chip as posted below.
Keep up the good work and thanks for sharing the info.
 

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The Rubberband Man
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3,552 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
In the past I saw a dyno chart for a stock w8 212 or 215 at the wheels.
One is on giac for the chip as posted below.
Keep up the good work and thanks for sharing the info.
Hey thanks! I forgot about the dyno sheet you posted up there. Matrix Integrated is around the corner from my house. Jeremy, the owner, is very helpful.

Too bad the W8 custom intake prototype was srapped! :thumbdown



Mike
 

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Old Man Tan
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3,685 Posts
"bolt-ons" are the straight replacement parts (exhaust and intake) v. the programming changes.
Kind of like hardware v. software.
eh, i would still consider chipping a bolt-on.

usually, bolt-ons are after market parts designed for your type of car and readily available for anyone. a part that is NOT a bolt on required custom work/ lots of modification to fit, and tends to be pretty rare. kind of like a K04-15 is a bolt on for a 1.8t passat because all you have to do is take out the K03 and drop it in. A GT3076R in a 1.8t is not a bolt on, because it requires a lot of work to be able to work right.

so basically, it's like the name says. a bolt-on is an after market performance part than can just be "bolted on" with no extra work.
 

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Hi uu8,

You might be lean, or you might not.

If that air/fuel reading is accurate I'd say you are lean pretty much across the board, though it gets better after about 4500 rpm. My (non-Passat, N/A) car gained about 6% when I went from an average of 14.5:1 to between 12.8:1 and 13.1:1. From what I understand, you get the air/fuel right, then add timing until you stop gaining (MBT timing means the minimum timing to get maximum brake torque). If you can do this on the dyno, I'd guess that you should pick up another 10 to 15 hp.

You should be starting out in closed loop at 14.7:1, then it should go into open loop and add fuel. It looks like you're starting out at nearly 16:1, but if the wideband meter they have in the exhaust is reading a point high after your cats, then the air/fuel looks OK. If your o2 sensors are fairly new and accurate, I'd believe those. In which case, you won't get any gain because you're already at 13:1. It would be worth a try adding fuel at WOT, it won't hurt anything and it might help. You can always take it back out...

I like the wagon, BTW -- 250 whp should make that move pretty well. My '99 Passat wagon is silver, 1.8t and has yet to get to a dyno. Some time this spring, once the snow tires are off ;-).

Cheers,
 

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The Rubberband Man
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Discussion Starter #16
Hi fritz,

Thanks for the info. I can check the AFR via VAG-COM to where I am. It'd be nice to maximize what I can....


If I am too lean, how would I adjust this and the timing?
 

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Hi uu8,

It looks like others use Lemmiwinks to do this:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1618056

I have not done this, as I don't yet have a VAG-COM setup. It may just be a plug-in to what you already have, so you may be all set with a download. It looks as though they let you move the fuel up or down (channel 10) or bump the timing (channel 9). Cool.

My other car is an '88 Mustang, and I got into the computer via a "Tweecer" which mounts onto the back of the stock computer. The advantage is that you can get to all of the parameters of the computer with it, but that is the disadvantage of it, too. Looks like there are 14 parameters to tune with the Lemmiwinks, but there are about 900 to look at with the Tweecer. And mine is an old box, vintage '93, where the new ones have twice the number of parameters. Some of these parameters actually do something, too, but I'm not sure what.

For the fuel, though, you can also use mechanical means to alter the A/F at wide open throttle by using an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. I would suggest doing that on the dyno, it is so much easier when you get direct feedback and can see where you need to add fuel. It looks like the timing would need to be done in the computer, though.

Regards,
 

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I thought that the W8 would have more power than this, I was always think they have around 250. Why did they regulate it down so much so that the V6 has about the same power???
Didn't they come with 270hp out of the box? I know that's 224 at the wheels, but that seems low. What am I missing?
 
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