Oil filter housing is a 36mm socket. I think the drain is 5 or 7mm.
2003 W8 - Black on Black - Dedicated Thread
Can someone tell me what size the hex is on the filter cartridge housing on the W8 motor?
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I believe the outside measurements equate to a 74mm 14-flute.
This is what I needed to get me through right now.Oil filter housing is a 36mm socket. I think the drain is 5 or 7mm.
That's for the tool that grabs at the base which I'll buy and add to collection.I believe the outside measurements equate to a 74mm 14-flute.
Somebody is not doing enough oil changes on the 25 W8 cars they own. 🤫Can someone tell me what size the hex is on the filter cartridge housing on the W8 motor?
I get to use an adjustable wrench on mine. I have no idea what size it is, but it's top mounted.
The only attention they get is every 2 - 3 weeks I start them and run them for about a 1/2 hour just to keep the battery alive.
That'll change though in the next couple of weeks. I'll be working on the front suspension here in the next few days to get this thing back on the road.
That'll change though in the next couple of weeks. I'll be working on the front suspension here in the next few days to get this thing back on the road.
Front Suspension - Upper Control Arm Replacement
I actually started working on the driver's side front over the weekend.
Got the car up on a jack and the caliper is off with axle bolt removed. Gotta remove the control arms from the steering knuckle so I can pull out the strut assembly.
Normally I would pull all of this out together but I'm working in a precarious situation. Not something I condone in the least. It's very sketchy and quite frankly it's unsafe as hell.
Try jacking up the heaviest part of your car on the beach in the deep soft sand that everybody struggles to walk on. That's what I'm dealing with for working conditions.
I just want to get in there, get out the strut assembly, swap out the upper control arms and get it back in and buttoned up. Then on to the other side.
I actually started working on the driver's side front over the weekend.
Got the car up on a jack and the caliper is off with axle bolt removed. Gotta remove the control arms from the steering knuckle so I can pull out the strut assembly.
Normally I would pull all of this out together but I'm working in a precarious situation. Not something I condone in the least. It's very sketchy and quite frankly it's unsafe as hell.
Try jacking up the heaviest part of your car on the beach in the deep soft sand that everybody struggles to walk on. That's what I'm dealing with for working conditions.
I just want to get in there, get out the strut assembly, swap out the upper control arms and get it back in and buttoned up. Then on to the other side.
Turning into more than just upper control arms
Had about a whopping 15 minutes of working time tonight before darkness completely shut me down. I don't have electricity yet so I can't be shining light all over the place.
Plus the fact that I'm lying on the desert floor where historically the few poisonous creatures that reside on my property come out at sundown and like to populate the general area that I'm in.
Anyways...
I think this is going to turn out to be a full-fledged front suspension refresh. The upper control arm bushings are toast. Worse than I previously thought and now I've discovered the driver's side tie rod end ball joint is also to the point of being dangerous. The ball joint is really sloppy on one side and the other it doesn't even go. That now makes complete sense of the randomly tight steering.
Maybe tomorrow I'll get a chance to remove the lower control arms to see what's going on there.
Symptoms:
Steering would bind from time to time turning either left or right but surprisingly it would track down the road arrow straight if I let go of the steering wheel.
Not like you can't turn the wheel tight, but you could definitely detect some resistance at times by the sound of the steering pump.
Outside edges of the tires were wearing strangely. Like they were being scrubbed.
Also, when driving over the entry gate track at my work, the front end wasn't reacting the proper way. If I would hit it just right, you could actually hear the tires chirp.
Just the whole front suspension in general is whacked out if it's proper operation.
Putting a positive spin on this, holy cats is it nice working on a vehicle that is 100% rust / corrosion free. Every single nut / bolt breaks free without strain, ripped knuckles and the whatnot.
More as I go along.
Had about a whopping 15 minutes of working time tonight before darkness completely shut me down. I don't have electricity yet so I can't be shining light all over the place.
Plus the fact that I'm lying on the desert floor where historically the few poisonous creatures that reside on my property come out at sundown and like to populate the general area that I'm in.
Anyways...
I think this is going to turn out to be a full-fledged front suspension refresh. The upper control arm bushings are toast. Worse than I previously thought and now I've discovered the driver's side tie rod end ball joint is also to the point of being dangerous. The ball joint is really sloppy on one side and the other it doesn't even go. That now makes complete sense of the randomly tight steering.
Maybe tomorrow I'll get a chance to remove the lower control arms to see what's going on there.
Symptoms:
Steering would bind from time to time turning either left or right but surprisingly it would track down the road arrow straight if I let go of the steering wheel.
Not like you can't turn the wheel tight, but you could definitely detect some resistance at times by the sound of the steering pump.
Outside edges of the tires were wearing strangely. Like they were being scrubbed.
Also, when driving over the entry gate track at my work, the front end wasn't reacting the proper way. If I would hit it just right, you could actually hear the tires chirp.
Just the whole front suspension in general is whacked out if it's proper operation.
Putting a positive spin on this, holy cats is it nice working on a vehicle that is 100% rust / corrosion free. Every single nut / bolt breaks free without strain, ripped knuckles and the whatnot.
More as I go along.
So I have a request...
Does anybody know the side-by-side differences between the Density Line from 034 Motorsport and the Heavy Duty Meyle control arm kits?
If I'm going to replace all the control arms, as long as I'm in there I'm going to do it right with an upgrade as a precursor to the PSS9's.
I've already got a set of the SPC adjustable upper control arms. Thinking about swapping those for a set of the 034 Motorsport spherical bearing upper control arms.
Thoughts or suggestions?
Does anybody know the side-by-side differences between the Density Line from 034 Motorsport and the Heavy Duty Meyle control arm kits?
If I'm going to replace all the control arms, as long as I'm in there I'm going to do it right with an upgrade as a precursor to the PSS9's.
I've already got a set of the SPC adjustable upper control arms. Thinking about swapping those for a set of the 034 Motorsport spherical bearing upper control arms.
Thoughts or suggestions?
Meyle HD is a stronger version than stock, Balljoints and bushings. 034 is a solid rubber bushing. Spherical is a bit much for a street car, noisy, and needs servicing from time to time.
Here's my shop area.
![Wheel Tire Car Land vehicle Vehicle]()
![Automotive parking light Car Wheel Land vehicle Tire]()
The mobile storage unit with assorted tools on hand.
![Wheel Tire Automotive parking light Land vehicle Vehicle]()
Safety is always my #1 priority.
Except this time.
![Tire Automotive tire Hood Motor vehicle Wheel]()
Give the strut the 'ol slipperoo and it's out.
![Tire Wheel Motor vehicle Automotive tire Hood]()
![Wood Gas Machine Metal Engineering]()
New uppers installed.
![Wood Gas Auto part Metal Road surface]()
If you look close enough, just to the near side of the center bushing, the rubber is cracked all the way through.
Made for some sloppy steering and suspension response.
![Bicycle part Wood Auto part Rim Metal]()
The mobile storage unit with assorted tools on hand.
Safety is always my #1 priority.
Except this time.
Give the strut the 'ol slipperoo and it's out.
New uppers installed.
If you look close enough, just to the near side of the center bushing, the rubber is cracked all the way through.
Made for some sloppy steering and suspension response.
I know I had mentioned giving the whole front end a refresh, but I need to have at least one car running for next week.
I had some upper control arms in stock so I just bit the bullet and got it done.
I'll have to go back in at a later date but that'll be after my garage / shop is built.
This was painful enough working under these conditions.
I had some upper control arms in stock so I just bit the bullet and got it done.
I'll have to go back in at a later date but that'll be after my garage / shop is built.
This was painful enough working under these conditions.
We had a crazy hailstorm out here in the desert last night.
Two small dents detected on the hood. 😢
Two small dents detected on the hood. 😢
Do you still have the sedan I pre-scoped out for you in Massachusetts? I'm assuming it's not this one, because of the mention of "no rust, corrosion, etc." And I know you might have a few other ones floating around under the desert sky. I don't think that Mass one was "the best" but I must say that my test drive of it was very delightful, one of my top VW moments. Hope it will get (and stay) on the road if it isn't already! Good luck with the fleet!!!
Actually, that one is in an enclosed storage unit up WI still, along with most all of my other belongings.Do you still have the sedan I pre-scoped out for you in Massachusetts? I'm assuming it's not this one, because of the mention of "no rust, corrosion, etc." And I know you might have a few other ones floating around under the desert sky. I don't think that Mass one was "the best" but I must say that my test drive of it was very delightful, one of my top VW moments. Hope it will get (and stay) on the road if it isn't already! Good luck with the fleet!!!
Planning on brining it down here after my garage / shop is built. Tentatively it'll be coming down November - December-ish.
It's too bad you can't take one of my other W8's for a spin. The other 2003 black on black or the 2004 Pacific Blue. Those are much more of a car than the one you test drove.
Not because they are anything more special, but because they are kept up and everything works like it should. Well except for the 2004 Pacific Blue W8, that's currently resting until I can the front end checked out. It's got a pretty bad rattle while driving.
Had a chance to let the car breathe a bit yesterday. One of the back roads I drive regularly was wide open so I gave it a little. Had the car up to 120mph for about 2 miles.
Got some vibration coming from somewhere. Who knows, tires, prop shaft. The back end feels a little slushy going through curves. The General G-MAX RS tires are not really up to the task. At a later date when I upgrade to the PSS9's I'll take care of the rear suspension and tires. Need a lower profile tire with a stiffer sidewall.
Got some vibration coming from somewhere. Who knows, tires, prop shaft. The back end feels a little slushy going through curves. The General G-MAX RS tires are not really up to the task. At a later date when I upgrade to the PSS9's I'll take care of the rear suspension and tires. Need a lower profile tire with a stiffer sidewall.
Or you can just add some air to the tires. I used to run 40psi on the stock 14" tires in my Dad's Nova. Made a world of difference in handling. Doesn't work as well on the Tiguan, the stock 215/65/17 are just too mushy and the suspension is tuned for understeer.
Replaced the front driver's door window regulator over the weekend.
Had to settle for just the track repair method seeing as the whole regulator panel is now pretty much extinct.
I purchased a decent one but it still isn't the same as the complete Genuine regulator. You can hear the window motor labor a bit when the window has about 2 inches to go before fully closed.
The window doesn't bottom out when going all the way down. The window will stop but then when you rest your arm on the window it drops about 3/8 of an inch.
Pretty frustrating.
I've saved all my old window regulators over the years, maybe one day I can figure out how to make a proper repair assembly.
... Or just upgrade to a newer Audi.
Had to settle for just the track repair method seeing as the whole regulator panel is now pretty much extinct.
I purchased a decent one but it still isn't the same as the complete Genuine regulator. You can hear the window motor labor a bit when the window has about 2 inches to go before fully closed.
The window doesn't bottom out when going all the way down. The window will stop but then when you rest your arm on the window it drops about 3/8 of an inch.
Pretty frustrating.
I've saved all my old window regulators over the years, maybe one day I can figure out how to make a proper repair assembly.
... Or just upgrade to a newer Audi.
Started the W8 up this morning. 37° this morning. Engine ran like crap like it was only on half of the cylinders. Engine light started blinking. 😢
Shut it off and started it again. Sounded completely different. Drove it to work and it ran fine.
I'll have to scan it this weekend to see what that was all about.
😢Shut it off and started it again. Sounded completely different. Drove it to work and it ran fine.
I'll have to scan it this weekend to see what that was all about.
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