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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2003 Passat W8 500 miles only.

I was trying to register at W8forums DK for three months now but for some reason, the server returns an error every time you try to sign up to post a question.
Anyhow, I searched up and down their site and nobody has my particular codes or problem. I am hopping someone here can point me in the right direction.

That's right, you read correctly, 500 miles on a new engine.
Odometer does say 97K but instead of toying around with expensive parts, I just slamed a complete engine assembly in there and had my old torque converter rebuilt.
Everything on this god forsaken engine is brand new. All parts came assembled from the manufacturer and all I did was install it. I added old my manifolds, old transmission with oil changed.
I was running the walmart synthetic 10w30 for the first 470 miles cause I am not sure if this engine comes broken in from factory in Germany. The exhaust ports had a little soot when you put your fingers in there and rub around, other than that, the engine is sparkling brand new with harness and all. Came with the intake manifold installed. Came with New coils already on, belt with tensioners and accesories like ac compressor and powersteering pump, alternetor is new.

To make a long story short, I opened the huge wooden crate that came from the dealer and secured it with a cherry picker. I attached my old transmission to new engine assembly. I connected the engine to the computer with its new harness already fastened to it. Connected gasoline lines and I am using my old factory OEM air intake with airflow meter (old).
I was using walmart synthetic oil and a new stp filter for just a couple hundred miles. the car is running rought on bank 1 only.
Bank 1 is the passenger side where cylinder 1 is. If I pull out all the spark plugs on bank 1 they look dirty with soot (black carbon). The exhaust throws out black soot and a little moisture when cold. Exhaust smells strong but no smoke. I can touch the engine and feel it idling rough just barely. I check the codes and it is always something different like 0030, 0301, 0304. missfiring codes. Any how, I clear them out with my OBD 2 scanner and they never came back yet for a whole week. Now I am getting these two codes consistently P2177 and P0170. Supposedly its running lean. I removed the new airfilter and ran it. When you drive to about 50 miles per hour you feel the engine stuttering a little. It misses once and a while at highway speeds setting off my check engine light. When I stop the car, clear the codes and restart, it idles like a dream.
Bank two spark plugs are all new looking. I switched them over to the passenger side and put the sooty ones on the driver side and the same shit happens. The driver side look clean now and the passenger side is running rough sometimes and barely noticable.
I did overfill the engine a little at first. I drained the walmart synthetic oil and it was pitch black. I put in two gallons of Shell Rotella T6 5w-40w and one quart of mobil 10w-40w to top off. Put in a new filter and the level is at the very top of the fill gap. 9 quarts of oil is what it has in there now. not 10.
I cleaned the spark plugs with carburator choke cleaner and they still look new and properly gapped in my opinion. I put the same ones back and I was gonna remove the oxygen sensors and spray then clean, but this fuking cars don't have the room to remove them. You have to pull out the whole engine to change out an oxygen sensor. I know they are in excellent condition anyway before installing them I thoroughly checked their parameters and they are fine. I did find an air leak, very small, at the hose check valve where the power steering fuid reservoir is. There's like a small vaccum pump under the radiator fill/expansion tank is. I hear its for the brake booster or something. I put in a new hose/tubing and sealed that bitch solid. I was hoping this would fix the problem with this side of the car running rough. I checked every possible hose and vent hose to the T! There is no leaks, But I cant be sure since I don't have a way to test for vaccum or have I ever done it. I am a really good mechanic but when it comes down to simple little things like this I get really frustrated not having the VAG scan tool or knowing how to use one. The German cars have given me heart burn. especially this one.

Is there anything I am overlooking? Any suggestions or experience with this particular codes it's throwing. I will eventually find out, But I want to avoid the dealer. How can I test the Mas air flow without having to buy or get a VAG scan at the dealer to confirm it is operating correctly?
I am perplexed as to why would four injectors run rich on bank 1 but give me a lean code. This is some mond boggling shit.
Please help or ask me more questions. I did clean the intake manifold completely again to be sure no holes are plugged up. It looks brand new. When you shine a light down into the intake ports, the ports are sooty carbon deposits and those cylinders are dirty with carbon build up. It's as if its injecting too much gasoline on one bank only. Doesn't make any sense. Engine does have power and drives smooth. No oil smoke, only a slight black smoke and it seems to only come out of the passenger side exhaust outlet.:banghead::banghead::banghead::mad:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I swapped the motor out because the original one was tapping loud at the top end and when I drained the oil, there was metalic color swirls in it.I am not selling the car at $1000 dollars, I was just being sarcastic. However... If you look up W8 on Craigslist Orlando under cars and trucks for sale by owner, You will see photos of the actual new engine installed and the car currently for sale at $9500. Lower than that I am not going. This car cost me $3500 and I took my chances with the upper cams tapping loudly.The motor cost me $13,000 from the dealer. I thought it would be an easy fix with a new engine and I soon discovered I purchased a nightmare of an engine for parts and service. I strongly believe it's a great engine, but you have to get it as a baby and watch it's every move. These cars are not worth buying second hand. I spent almost $20,000 dollars to get it almost perfect for another 100,000 thousand miles of service. But right now I am broke and desperate. This car won't let up on my wallet. Now it has a new engine and it's running rough.
 

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You may want to try a couple of things before you dump your car for a grand. If you get it running right, it should be pretty nice.

I'd suggest changing the plugs to a fresh set. If you're misfiring on one side, you're dumping air and raw fuel into the exhaust which will make the computer think all sorts of nasty stuff is happening, most of which will result in more fuel being dumped into that bank. Which, in turn, will make the car run worse. You might want to throw a new fuel filter in there, too. That could make the car run lean if it is restricting the fuel flow. If it runs too lean, it will misfire.

Though your car isn't boosted, you could make a boost tester for it and try to find leaks that way. If you put ten psi of air into the inlet, any hissing you hear will indicate something is leaking that shouldn't be (i.e. a vacuum leak).

Good luck...
 

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If you're not selling the w8 passat for 1 grand don't make the title

2003 Passat W8 for sale $1000 dollars!!!!!! Runs!
ktnx.. seems kinda retarded that you'd spend how much you allegedly have to get the car running properly. You could have just bought a brand new car for that much :crazy:
 

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If you're not selling the w8 passat for 1 grand don't make the title



ktnx.. seems kinda retarded that you'd spend how much you allegedly have to get the car running properly. You could have just bought a brand new car for that much :crazy:
Well thats kind of mean, alot of people spend way more on thier cars then they should or are even worth, but that is thier choice, myself included. :)

Anyway OP, only thing I can think of that controls one bank not the other for fuel is the O2 sensor. You say it tested new, but honestly for 13k why didn't you spend a little more and get new sensors? If the Bank 1 sensor 1 oxygen sensor is bad, it will either make your car get too much fuel on one side, or not enough making it rich or lean. Thats it. It cannot really be air, because you are running fine on the drivers side, and a intake leak that big would effect the entire engine and so would the MAF sensor and all of the cam sensors and adjustors. I have never tried to replace the oxygen sensors in this car, but I cannot see how they would bury them so you can't take them out with the engine in. But if that is the case, bring it to the dealer, spend the 80 bucks and have them tell you the problem for sure. It is worth it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
If you're not selling the w8 passat for 1 grand don't make the title



ktnx.. seems kinda retarded that you'd spend how much you allegedly have to get the car running properly. You could have just bought a brand new car for that much :crazy:
I was trying to ammend my previous post from "fuking w8 problems" to " for sale" but I made a double post accidently. I am sorry that my title got you all excited for nothing. A tousand bucks for a W8 is more likely to get read than "Please Help!" lol

I already changed the fuel filter, It still running a little rough. It's been filled about three times with super high octane. I ran lucas fuel injector cleaner a week ago. The only thing I can think of was that I replaced the fuel control module in the trunk under the spare. It was wet. I installed a new one a few days after installing the new engine because my fuel guage was not functioning. Now it works. Gasoline milage is lousy. This car is burning gasoline fast.
Is it possible that an exhaust leak can cause rich running? Someone mentioned that but it could be because I noticed the mid section has a little black soot around the lips. But I don't feel, hear or see any leaks. It looks normal. Speed bumps are at my subdivision. Maybe the MAF sensor is off. I know it's a pain without tools and scanners, but any poorman's mechnical advice will be tried before I fork over $150 for a complete diagnostics.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I think the oxygen sensors are doing the job correctly. They set off codes after the effect and are not the cause. I want to rule out the sensors but you might be right. I just hate the thought of removing the top end to access the precat sensors. There is no space to work behind this motor. Maybe remove the exhaust from the bottom, but I won't touch that untill I know for sure. I think everything is pointing to the dealer on this one.
What I fukin hate about the dealer is that they diagnose your car but cant tell you exactly what's going on or let you see the computer screen and walk me thru. They always treat me like a bitch and put me in a waiting room with women and prettyboys for an hour and when they are done they give me the bill and recommend repairs over $450. They give me generic answers after.
 

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A leaky exhaust after sensors won't really cause any problems that would make the engine run poorly Though I've seen cracked manifolds before the o2 sensors cause fake lean conditions, but I doubt that is your problem. Do w8's have two separate fuel rails and fuel pressure regulators? I'm really not sure as to the components of a W8.
 

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I think the oxygen sensors are doing the job correctly. They set off codes after the effect and are not the cause. I want to rule out the sensors but you might be right. I just hate the thought of removing the top end to access the precat sensors. There is no space to work behind this motor. Maybe remove the exhaust from the bottom, but I won't touch that untill I know for sure. I think everything is pointing to the dealer on this one.
What I fukin hate about the dealer is that they diagnose your car but cant tell you exactly what's going on or let you see the computer screen and walk me thru. They always treat me like a bitch and put me in a waiting room with women and prettyboys for an hour and when they are done they give me the bill and recommend repairs over $450. They give me generic answers after.
Bad o2 sensors will throw codes too. I'd still suggest fresh plugs, then a VAG-COM and software for $150 before you throw another $1500 worth of parts at it. Being able to diagnose something like this is really challenging if you don't have much information about what the computer is trying to do. It may point you in the right direction as to what sensor is going haywire.

Dealers are always going to treat customers the same way -- they can't have you in the garage bay talking to the mechanics because if the car fell on you they would get sued up the wazoo. So they avoid the problem by not letting anybody into the garage, then having the head mechanical sales dork (the service manager) try to sell you a lot of stuff you don't need for outrageously high prices. If you did take it in, you might be able to sift through what they told you to get to the truth of the matter, however.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Bad o2 sensors will throw codes too. I'd still suggest fresh plugs, then a VAG-COM and software for $150 before you throw another $1500 worth of parts at it. Being able to diagnose something like this is really challenging if you don't have much information about what the computer is trying to do. It may point you in the right direction as to what sensor is going haywire.

Dealers are always going to treat customers the same way -- they can't have you in the garage bay talking to the mechanics because if the car fell on you they would get sued up the wazoo. So they avoid the problem by not letting anybody into the garage, then having the head mechanical sales dork (the service manager) try to sell you a lot of stuff you don't need for outrageously high prices. If you did take it in, you might be able to sift through what they told you to get to the truth of the matter, however.
this fuel rail is shared by ALL INJECTORS with only one regulator. But I was thinking that if an o2 sensor was bad, it would give a code specifically for that unit. Something like "o2 sensor 2, bank 1 circuit Open or beyond something"
When a sensor is bad, it will tell you. I would guess. But in this case I really need to get this car scan. Can you tell me where I can buy a VAG Scan tool in Central Florida?
As soon as I discover my dillema, I will post it here and drink a 18 pack of coors light.
 

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You shelled out 13 grand for a motor that lasted 500 miles before acting up??? My ass would be on the phone with who ever you purchased it from DEMANDING they send another one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
You shelled out 13 grand for a motor that lasted 500 miles before acting up??? My ass would be on the phone with who ever you purchased it from DEMANDING they send another one.
The motor didn't cost me 13000. But it is worth $13000, call the dealer and find out. The dealer will only sell you the short block at that. Not the extras.

The price I got it for was free. A guy with a W8 got locked up for years in Tampa and his wife sold me the unopened crate for $500 bucks, there , the secret is out. I found it on craigslist. The car is also for sale but they want $3500 and it's not worth it. No engine in it. I just got lucky with this car. Every receipt is available and The engine was packed very well and is a genuine complete assembly that he supposedly bought for $4700 from VW close out sale last year.
I was exaggerating the prices in hopes of selling the car and make a profit, but I do wanna keep it now. I really like it and plan to throw some 19" Audi A8 turbine wheels
 

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You shelled out 13 grand for a motor that lasted 500 miles before acting up??? My ass would be on the phone with who ever you purchased it from DEMANDING they send another one.
If you can afford to cough up $13k, you can afford to have the engine installed professionally by the dealership techs.

This thread is very fishy. :crazy:
 
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