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03 vw passat 1.8 turbo
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Discussion Starter #1
hi so i have had my passat 4yrs and 3 out of the 4 yrs I drove it.so it sat for a yr because the pick up screen was clogged so i payed $1,000 to have it fixed but the auto mechanic didnt bother to tell me that the coolant flang needed to be done as well so that would be another $618.00.so i went and bought the parts and the coolant and i started to work on it but im no mechanic.ive put the replaced the coolant senor and thats about it.im not scared of learning but i am scared of fucking up my car.any ideas?
 

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The coolant flange on a 1.8t is notoriously fiddly since it's way in the back of the engine bay and access is limited. It just bolts on but getting to some of the bolts is difficult. Also, there are some o-rings that can stick in place that need to be replaced and since everything has to be done by feel those can cause issues if you miss one. If you are limber and patient I'm sure you can replace the flange. Be careful of all the plastic bits back there are they can get brittle and break. Read up on the procedure here first and be sure you have a day or two of free time and all the parts handy before starting. If you get stuck, you can always ask here for advice but once the coolant lines are open you can't drive the car until the job is done.
 

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If you haven't yet purchased a replacement flange, you may want to consider getting a genuine VW part. Aftermarket parts can sometimes be problematic, but on this one, replacements seem particularly leak-prone.
 

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in dire need of an organic chemistry lesson
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Regardless of either you or someone else would change the flange I strongly recommend that you get an aluminum one not the plastic. Given changing the flange is not an easy task, the last thing you want to happen is that it leaks again (which happened to me and others).

For this particular part replacement, you need to remove the Kombi valve. It has a very thin metal gasket. When you want to put it back the gasket will fall making it very tedious job. The trick is to use a piece of regular tape to temporarily attach the gasket to the valve body so it won't fall. After you have the bolts secured in place then pull the tape out and you are good to go.
 

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03 vw passat 1.8 turbo
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Discussion Starter #6
Regardless of either you and someone else would change the flange I strongly recommend that you get an aluminum one not the plastic. Given changing the flange is not an easy task, the last thing you want to happen is that it leaks again (which happened to me and others).

For this particular part replacement, you need to remove the Kombi valve. It has a very thin metal gasket. When you want to put it back the gasket will fall making it very tedious job. The trick is to use a piece of regular tape to temporarily attach the gasket to the valve body so it won't fall. After you ave the bolts secured in place then pull the tape out and you are good to go.
thank u :)
 

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03 vw passat 1.8 turbo
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Discussion Starter #7
You dont know how much that helped me i appreciate it so much.i do have one question thow ive gotten most of the hoses disconnected does the combi valve have to be romoved? the less i have to take off the better off ill be at putting it all back together.lol.this job is a bitch.but the link u sent was amazing ;):sneaky::).Im really doin this all on my on.
 

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I am in the "less removed the better" camp, and I removed the combi valve. Frees up so much room. Basically, when you go to put the flange on, you are bear hugging the engine, if you can picture that. Arms coming in from both sides. That combi valve would be in the way and make for a very frustrating install if left on.
 
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I second VAGguy's comment about removing the combi valve. I've done it both ways and it was much easier changing the flange with it out of the way.

One note on Emry's install pdf from ECS Tuning. Most of those instructions apply to the B5.5, but there are some differences. There is no rubber hose as shown in step 23. The long metal tube that runs from the front of the engine to the back (pictured in step 22) bolts directly to the flange.
 

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I remove the 2 upper bolts of the combi and pivot out of the way on the lower bolt. This keeps the gasket from getting lost. It also helps to take pictures with your cell phone to see what you are working on (or a mirror).
 

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I second what PZ said. Having done this job many times (just 3 days ago was the most recent), I learned not to take out all 3 bolts on the combi valve.
In the past I have spent up to an hour, just trying to line up the holes on that damned metal gasket on that valve. Never again!
A mirror helps too, though at this point I do it all by feel.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
so i have a question how do u get the combi valve bolts out.im having a hard time with space,my arm is all brusied up.
 

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in dire need of an organic chemistry lesson
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my arm is all brusied up.
You need of course to use protective gear Like thin but durable gloves.

Also you will end up removing several clips during this process like the one for the coolant temp sensor or coolant pipe. I suggest you tie them with tooth floss to your finger so if they fall you can recover them. Otherwise losing them in engine bay is easy and recovering them an almost impossibility.

Like any other auto repair job you need proper tools or it would become a PITA.
Don't be afraid buying tools you need as it saves you lot of money down the road.
 

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After you remove the metal pipes to the combi and PCV, you should have enough room to lay your left arm on the catalytic converter and reach around the back of the engine. The bolts are 5mm allen head.
 
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Discussion Starter #16
i have everything off except them damb combi bolts.there in there really good.and i have another question how do i get the bracketes off the bolts to remover the flange.i dont know where i missed that hole process. but im stumped.?
 

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The bracket holding the turbo oil feed pipe attaches to the bolt securing the flange. Remove the nut, and gently flex the metal line out of the way. Then you can remove the "double hex" bolt.

Here is a video that explains it.

The other bolt is a normal hex bolt. It goes through a bracket attached to a vertical breather pipe then into the coolant flange. Once that hex bolt is removed, the metal pipe should flex out of the way enough to remove the flange.

Here's another good write-up with pictures: 1 8t Coolant Flange Replacement - PassatB5
 

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I remove all bolts holding the oil line to the head. A lot of the work has to be done by feel, this is where a mirror or cell phone camera comes in handy to see what you have to reach. A 10mm socket with a 1/4" drive should work, but I also have a flex head ratchet for a little extra room.
 

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I think as previously mentioned, leave one of the bolts (forget which one) in and swing combi down,as there is a thin metallic gasket that will enter the twilight zone if dropped
 
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