2003 GLX V6 ATQ Gas Recirculation Routing

3636 Views 18 Replies 5 Participants Last post by GpzGuy, Oct 25, 2017

chefro

Discussion Starter · Jan 24, 2017

I really need help figuring out the gas recirculation routing. I did scour the Garage and InfoBase sections, but other that wonderful write-ups about changing the vacuum hoses I couldn't find anything to help out.
2003 GLX wagon with ATQ engine, 7/02 production. However, it has the "updated" PCV system, with the big round "puck" valve, instead of that "Y" or "spider" valve as I've seen it in the past referenced as.
I did look on youtube, I did look at all of the "ETKA" type illustrations up to 2005 model and I cannot find a single routing that is pertinent to the setup in this car. All sources either seem to show or reference just the regular B5 setup.
Would someone be kind and help a fellow out? I'll show you where I'm at this moment.
Routing1
Routing2
Routing3
Does this look like the proper hookup for all of the breather hoses and the "puck"-type PCV Valve? Also, the big hose on the PCV valve doesn't seem to fit anywhere near that bracket. Is that bracket holding something else, or my setup is screwed up and the big hose should rest in there? I need to figure this out, as I'm ready to get the engine back in.
Please, help me out fellas. Thank you :banghead:

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

AndreasPassat

· #2 · Jan 24, 2017

I'll go check my wife's car, I'm pretty certain that set-up is the same as yours.

AndreasPassat

· #3 · Jan 24, 2017

Follow the fine blue lines. those are the hoses you are referring to in routing #2 with question mark.
Sorry about the grammar and spelling in the JPG.

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chefro

Discussion Starter · #4 · Jan 25, 2017

(Thank you so much for helping out. Priceless, really...)

I named the photos as 1,2,3 just to keep them in order for uploading on the net. They didn't mean to be different routings
Well, regardless of your car's year, it seems that someone screwed up with the routing in mine prior to purchasing it.
Instead of that elbowed hose between the PCV Valve and the TB, mine has the two big short hoses connected by an elbow.
Which hose in your setup goes to the valley pan neck? Or is the PCV Valve's elbowed hose itself? My "air box" having the temp sensor and connecting to the TB (can see the temp sensor connector in your pic) it is capped, so nothing goes there.
What's on the other side of the valve? does it look the same like my setup:
Pass. side valve cover - to - top of connecting double elbow - to - PCV Valve
Left valve cover - to - connecting double elbow - to what?

AndreasPassat

· #5 · Jan 26, 2017

chefro,
Sorry I have been away. Work has me swamped.
Anyways...
I'll take my wife's car apart this weekend so I can got some 'clear shots' of what's what, then I'll post up the pics.

I knew I should have taken more pictures when I was doing the re-build on her car.

chefro

Discussion Starter · #6 · Jan 26, 2017

Thanks Andreas. There's no rush.
I pulled an all-nighter and got the engine in by myself. What a freaking fight...Anyway, It will take me a few good days to sort out the back of the engine, as there's not even room to tighten the damn engine block-to-bellhousing bolts. What a nightmare. I guess you suppose to install first just the block with the oil pans assembled, instead of getting the heads on while on the engine stand. My old A6 is much much easier to work on than this piece of ...gr8 Horse Power on a dumb chassis.
Next will be the intake manifold, fuel rack, hence take your time.
I appreciate your help.:thumbup:

Electron Man

· #7 · Jan 26, 2017

...as there's not even room to tighten the damn engine block-to-bellhousing bolts.

Funny how one figures out that the factory tightened those bolts with the engine/trans out of the car.

Same goes for any/all 1.8T downpipe to exhaust connections.

Good Luck

chefro

Discussion Starter · #8 · Jan 26, 2017

Yeah, that's where INFORMATION comes in handy. You say you go by the book, but ALL MANUALS tell you shit about impossibilities like this one when they list you STEPS. They give you REMOVAL instructions, but then say "Installation is the reverse of removal"... They give you snippets of HOW do to something if you replace an engine component
For instance, they show you two of the driver side bolts "these bolts are accessible through the wheel well"...well, one is a combo allen recessed head bolt + nut, and the way it goes in is from the bellhousing toward the front, tightening the nut on the front side. The nut doesn't fit the other way around. Well, you can't put a damn socket bit on the bolt because there's no room, even less tightening to 48 ft/lb. And this is with the engine mount off. Still you got no room. I suppose you have to have the CV AXLE out in order to tighten that mofo. This is just an easy example. Then you got the ones on top...all the coolant pipes and wire looms...there's no room between the firewall and the coolant pipes to stick your hand in with a decent tightening wrench, so torqueing is way out of the question.
I would hate to pull the heads out and buy new head bolts just to torque some #^%$^$%^ bolts so I don't lose the engine on the road, but I might have to do it...
Poor, poor, very poor design, no matter how good these cars are. Had to vent a little since I made the original post about crankcase ventilation...
Thanks, I'll try my best

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AndreasPassat

· #9 · Jan 26, 2017

For whatever its worth, after all the V6's I have worked on, if I have to go any deeper than the valve train, I'll pull the whole engine and trans as 'one' and then tackle whatever it is that needs fixing. I have gotten to point where 'yeah it's actually easier to pull the whole shebang than try to work in cramped, uncomfortable, impossible positions'. The only part for me that sucks pulling the engine and trans is all the BS with the front suspension. But again, in retrospect for me, I'd rather do that and have unrestricted access to everything. Makes the job sooooo much easier.

Reactions: 1

AndreasPassat

· #10 · Jan 26, 2017

chefro said:
Thanks Andreas. There's no rush.
Next will be the intake manifold, fuel rack, hence take your time.
I appreciate your help.:thumbup:

Cool. as said, I'll take some pictures with parts removed so it's easier to see what's going on.

chefro

Discussion Starter · #11 · Jan 27, 2017

I can see where it's much easier, although I can picture having a hydraulic lift. Having the car on jack stands makes it exactly for those cramped and uncomfortable positions you mentioned.
You'd need a low profile transmission jack as well. No matter how strong a person might be, I can't picture anyone holding that behemoth on his belly.
In any case, this rebuild taught me quite a bit about this car, probably more than I wanted or needed.
Somehow I got all the exhaust bolts tightened and I got only one tranny bolt left to get in, between the upper oil pan and low side of the bellhousing - one of the two directly over the cross-member. I need to raise the tranny just a tad bit so I can stick a hand in there.
Thanks, much obliged.

chefro

Discussion Starter · #12 · Feb 16, 2017

TKS, PAUL! Indirectly you solved my doubts/quandary. Cheers
-

Reactions: 1

chefro

Discussion Starter · #13 · Feb 16, 2017

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AndreasPassat

· #14 · Feb 17, 2017

Holy crap! I forgot about this thread. I owe you some pictures don't I? Or not anymore?
I see you've got the intake system pulled, What is it your doing and what sorts of questions do you have?

Couple more bolts you could've pulled the engine :lol:

chefro

Discussion Starter · #15 · Feb 17, 2017

Hey Andreas.
I finished the car last Friday and took for a spin. In about 25 miles it spit the camshaft rear oil cap, bank 2. Last night while coming across PZs thread on changing the O-rings on the coolant pipes, I saw the photo above (is his car, or one he worked on at the time; it isn't mine) and the proverbial light bulb popped in my head.
I installed the brand new PCV valve wrongfully! That was the purpose of the thread in the first place, to get the PCV routing properly installed. The new valve came w/an extra hose and screwed up my mind. I had the routing ok, just installed the valve "upside-down" so-to-speak.
I'm good now, all is ok on the PCV front

Thanks for your help anyway!
Cheers

AndreasPassat

· #16 · Feb 17, 2017

chefro said:
Hey Andreas.
I finished the car last Friday and took for a spin. In about 25 miles it spit the camshaft rear oil cap, bank 2. Last night while coming across PZs thread on changing the O-rings on the coolant pipes, I saw the photo above (is his car, or one he worked on at the time; it isn't mine) and the proverbial light bulb popped in my head.
I installed the brand new PCV valve wrongfully! That was the purpose of the thread in the first place, to get the PCV routing properly installed. The new valve came w/an extra hose and screwed up my mind. I had the routing ok, just installed the valve "upside-down" so-to-speak.
I'm good now, all is ok on the PCV front
Thanks for your help anyway!
Cheers

I'm glad to hear you got it going. :beer:

Reactions: 1

PZ

· #17 · Feb 18, 2017

It was not mine, but one I worked on. Mine had the old style with the suction jet.

chefro

Discussion Starter · #18 · Feb 19, 2017

Cheers guys. Thanks a bunch

GpzGuy

· #19 · Oct 25, 2017

Searching for the info I need lead me to here, but unfortunately the later pictures posted and likely the ones I really need I can't see because Photobucket decided to screw everyone and break the internet...if anyone has these could you please repost them outside of Photobucket or otherwise send them to me? TIA!

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