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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, I am trying to save a 2001 Passat with the V6 motor. It has 475,000 km on it and really want to see it get to half a million kilometers.

The crankshaft seal is broken so its literally throwing out oil.

I have the front end off the car and see that the crankshaft bolt looks like it needs a specialized socket. Does anyone know where to get this socket and what size it is? Is it a specialized tool I need or readily available in stores?

Also, want to know what the torque specs are.

If anyone has done this job before, please let me know. I'd love to hear your experience and tips! :bowdown:

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It's a normal 12 point bolt. I think the 1.8T was 19mm and the V6 is the metric equivalent of 15/16, so 24mm. I actually use the 15/16" as my 24mm is a 6 point. Pretty sure I got the socket at the local auto parts store.
 

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Great thanks! Getting a manual today because I want to make sure this is done right.
If you don't already know it, getting the Bentley Manual is the gospel of all things Passat.
Available from here VW - Volkswagen Passat Service Manual: 1998-2005 *-* Bentley Publishers - Repair Manuals and Automotive Books

While not necessary to make certain / all repairs, A copy of VCDS will prove invaluable if you get a CEL and don't want to shell out a wad of your hard earned cash.
Check it out here Ross-Tech: Home

With these two items and a mechanics tool set, all things can be conquered. ;)
 

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I don't know what happened to my post but...
As PZ suggests, a normal 12 point socket will fit over that crankshaft bolt.
You will definitely need an impact tool, either air or battery powered (like a Milwaukee) with at least 1/2" drive and at least 400ft/lbs of torque.
That bolt is stupid tight from the factory.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks Andreas. I also need to grab the locking pin tool #3242. I just called the dealer and was surprised to find out they don't carry it but it's on Amazon!
 

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I once needed a 1" drive impact to loosen a crank bolt as the breaker bar and 4' extension could not break it loose. No pin on that one and since it was a manual, it overwhelmed the parking brake and was rolling the car instead. I've had several that I just put the breaker bar against the frame (or ground on transverse) and cranked the engine to break it loose (be sure to pull ignition plugs).
 

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I've had several that I just put the breaker bar against the frame (or ground on transverse) and cranked the engine to break it loose (be sure to pull ignition plugs).
My neighbor had a VW Golf, and called asking for help to loosen the crank sprocket bolt. I'd heard about the starter motor technique, and since it wasn't my car or tools, I suggested we try it. One little blip of the starter, and the bolt was completely loosened.
 

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Read this service bulletin before you start the job.
https://www.blauparts.com/audi_techn...t_pulley.shtml

That bolt must NOT be re-used, you need a new bolt.
Torque Specs. (With thread oiled)
Step 1: Torque to 148 ft-lbs (200 Nm)
Step 2: Tighten an additional 180 degrees
You will need a 24 mm 12 point socket with at least 1/2" drive (Preferably 3/4" drive) and a long bar.

I strongly recommend that you use a new bolt, but if you re-use the old bolt, you can't tighten it to the original specs, this would cause damage.
With threads oiled you would need to torque it to at least 300 ft-lbs (405 Nm) and no second step.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the tip. I guess using the old bolt is out of the question since my torque wrench only goes up to 250 ft-lbs!
 

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OK, you have the V6, and this job is a bit more than you were anticipating. In order to get the crank seal off, you have to remove the timing belt. There is no way around that, as it's drive gear is splined onto the crankshaft. Because of that, you should do a full timing belt replacement. That means new belt, tensioner, water pump, thermostat. The three special tools you absolutely have to use are the timing belt lock bar, the crankshaft locking pin, and a variable pin spanner for holding the fan clutch in place while you get the huge (reverse threaded) nut off.

The timing belt alignment locking bar and crankshaft locking pin I bought aftermarket on Amazon for a reasonable price. I also initially bought a fake VW variable pin spanner that was only like 10 inches long and cheaply made. I bent the ever loving crap out of it and cut my hand in the process. Even the OEM VW tool is crap for this job, as that fan clutch nut is an absolute bear without good leverage on it. The BEST tool I have ever seen for this, and absolutely worth the money is the OTC Variable Pin Spanner, also available on Amazon. With that tool it was easy. Oh yeah, forgot to mention that you need a big 1-inch open ended spanner (wrench) on the fan clutch nut, and it's reverse threaded, lefty-tighty, right loosey.

Blauparts has all the parts and some very good step by step instructions for doing this repair in their timing belt replacement instructions, including how to replace the crank seal. They will even rent you the tools. With their instructions downloaded and printed off you wouldn't really even need the factory service manual....in fact I consider the Blauparts instructions better as they have pictures, not just illustrations.

I've done this exact same job twice on two different 2.8s in the last two years as part of pulling and repairing the cylinder heads. On both cars. Now two of my daughters have matching green Passat that are running and driving perfectly....well except I have to replace the heater core on one before next winter. I've currently got it bypassed.

Use lots of Ziploc bags and a sharpie to lable everything. Use your cellphone camera and take lots of pictures. Check and double-check every single step and you'll be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
OK, you have the V6, and this job is a bit more than you were anticipating. In order to get the crank seal off, you have to remove the timing belt. There is no way around that, as it's drive gear is splined onto the crankshaft. Because of that, you should do a full timing belt replacement. That means new belt, tensioner, water pump, thermostat. The three special tools you absolutely have to use are the timing belt lock bar, the crankshaft locking pin, and a variable pin spanner for holding the fan clutch in place while you get the huge (reverse threaded) nut off.

The timing belt alignment locking bar and crankshaft locking pin I bought aftermarket on Amazon for a reasonable price. I also initially bought a fake VW variable pin spanner that was only like 10 inches long and cheaply made. I bent the ever loving crap out of it and cut my hand in the process. Even the OEM VW tool is crap for this job, as that fan clutch nut is an absolute bear without good leverage on it. The BEST tool I have ever seen for this, and absolutely worth the money is the OTC Variable Pin Spanner, also available on Amazon. With that tool it was easy. Oh yeah, forgot to mention that you need a big 1-inch open ended spanner (wrench) on the fan clutch nut, and it's reverse threaded, lefty-tighty, right loosey.

Blauparts has all the parts and some very good step by step instructions for doing this repair in their timing belt replacement instructions, including how to replace the crank seal. They will even rent you the tools. With their instructions downloaded and printed off you wouldn't really even need the factory service manual....in fact I consider the Blauparts instructions better as they have pictures, not just illustrations.

I've done this exact same job twice on two different 2.8s in the last two years as part of pulling and repairing the cylinder heads. On both cars. Now two of my daughters have matching green Passat that are running and driving perfectly....well except I have to replace the heater core on one before next winter. I've currently got it bypassed.

Use lots of Ziploc bags and a sharpie to lable everything. Use your cellphone camera and take lots of pictures. Check and double-check every single step and you'll be fine.
Thanks for the reply, it's coming along really slow but I did have a bit of a snafu. I was able to remove everything I need so far, got the crank lock tool and the camshaft alignment tool is on the way. The crank bolt was impossible to remove so i took out the crank lock bolt and did the engine start trick with the socket and bar wedged against the frame rails. After a couple tries the bolt finally broke loose.

I then attempted to pull off the harmonic balancer and to my surprise it pulled out the drive gear as well. When that happened I realized I was no longer in TDC and the crank lock was not in place. DOH!

Im hoping that tomorrow I can put the gear back in, put it in TDC and then when i get the cam tool fingers crossed all will align. If it doesnt seem to align properly do you know if it's possible to remove the belt while the crank is in TDC then manually move the camshafts to allign it with the alignment tool? Any idea if that would work?

Will take your advice and replace the belts and the rest of it as well.

The plan was to get rid of the car because of all the oil it's leaking and even my brother's mechanic doesn't want to work on it anymore. The body is in great shape and i'd love to see this thing hit 500K!
 

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I then attempted to pull off the harmonic balancer and to my surprise it pulled out the drive gear as well. When that happened I realized I was no longer in TDC and the crank lock was not in place. DOH!

Im hoping that tomorrow I can put the gear back in, put it in TDC and then when i get the cam tool fingers crossed all will align. If it doesnt seem to align properly do you know if it's possible to remove the belt while the crank is in TDC then manually move the camshafts to allign it with the alignment tool? Any idea if that would work?
Was the crank roughly at TDC when you took the pulley and sprocket off ? (I assume that the eight bolts still attached the pulley to the sprocket, or rust did). You may need to temporarily put the sprocket/pulley and lower plastic cover back on to help locate TDC enough to fit the crank pin. The cams can and will need to be turned enough to fit the cam tool, but if way off, then perhaps the crank will need to be rotated to a safe position where no valves can touch pistons, before you rotate the cams to fit the holding tool. TomVW often describes this technique.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Was the crank roughly at TDC when you took the pulley and sprocket off ? (I assume that the eight bolts still attached the pulley to the sprocket, or rust did). You may need to temporarily put the sprocket/pulley and lower plastic cover back on to help locate TDC enough to fit the crank pin. The cams can and will need to be turned enough to fit the cam tool, but if way off, then perhaps the crank will need to be rotated to a safe position where no valves can touch pistons, before you rotate the cams to fit the holding tool. TomVW often describes this technique.
Hi, I did just that and got it to TDC, then I replaced the crankshaft seal. I also was able to turn the cams slightly to get it timed right and all lined up ok now.
Today I tried to start the car to see if the new crankshaft seal did the job but unfortunately the car won't start. It turns over and at one point it seemed to want to start but no luck.
Before all this it was running so will check for spark and if the car is getting fuel.
Was hoping it would crank over but will have to troubleshoot now!
 
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