[skullkz]

The issue is you do no have to correct cam locking tool and the steps you do it in there are certain steps to achieve perfect timing all the time with no mistakes with or without tool and im going to put it you do not have the crank locking tool either and secondly you need to lock the cams with the tool to have both lined up and loosen cam gears you have to loosen gears. then you install your belt double check crank timing adjust your tensioner before half torquing cam gears to 30nm remove cam tool rotate engine a full rotation and check cam timing with tool to make sure it goes in perfect and smoothly with force *key thing* then check crank make sure that is good also, then you keep your cam locking tool on there fully torque to 55nm i always give a little more to be safe because used bolts are already stretched from 1st use. Then your all set. Id get the correct tools don’t take that risk. If you need more instructions I could pm you what you need to know from the Bentley.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[skullkz]

That is a recipe for a disaster.

Excuse me? Please explain the recipe for disaster? I do these 2.8,2.7,1.8,2.0 with my eyes closed,


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[skullkz]

You should be fine with the way the car is now, without a proper cam tool, it would be tough to judge how far the cam would need to be moved to be perfect. With the cam tool, you would only have to loosen one side, install the tool and lock down the pulley again. That can be done without service position. I would not worry about how this came to be, the belt can stretch but not very far.

So it’s ok to drive a car around with bad timing? I’d like to tell my customers that


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[skullkz]

It basically boils down to the cam sprocket not being loose on the bank 1 camshaft. With the cam sprocket being loose (by loose I mean just enough to turn on the tapered portion of the camshaft). When the camshafts have their static timing set to the timing marks on the cam caps and the static timing on the belt set by the marks on the crankshaft pulley relative to the marks on the plastic cover, then the diamond shaped keys will be exactly horizontal. Basically it allows you a finite adjustment that retarding or advancing the belt by one tooth can't achieve.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[skullkz]

Skullkz, I have a suspicion that if PZ says something is a recipe for disaster, it probably is. Also, read all the posts again; nobody said anything about driving a car with 'bad timing' being OK. I prefer to time mine as precisely as the special tools allow, but no doubt millions of timing belts are changed by the old mark-paint match-paint method, without regard to timing marks or where TDC is.

And if you read my post i explained how it should be done. I did not say anything about paint marking to set timing. My point was and still is he dont have the correct tool to align what he needs to and even without the tool if he knew where and how it should be not having the right tool wouldn’t be a issue because you would know how to handle yourself in that case, and cam sprockets wasn’t loose all i said. I know what im saying maybe y’all don’t understand my explanation or something *


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[skullkz]

You should not rotate the engine with the cams only half torqued. They are likely to slip and you end up with bent valves. While you may be experienced enough to know that they have not, for a single owner DIY, taking a chance like that can be catastrophic.

I am telling the OP that the engine would not self-destruct if the cam is off a fraction as it is not setting a cam code. If it were off a full tooth, it would set a code.

And yes, your initial post was not easy to understand for me. I do not intend to slight you, as my posts here are geared to the less experienced forum users.

Yea now i understand what your saying yea that’s true he maybe not that experienced to know all that i got you


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk