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Discussion Starter #42
J_brill said:
Is it okay to run the factory side mount intercooler with a k04? That would really help my budget!
I ran it that way for ~ 40,000 miles. Just cuts a little power in the summer temps. Nothing terrible, just an irritation.
 

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That's good to know. So all you really need is the turbo, ecu, and injectors (+ obvious stuff like intake, dv, and exhaust)?
 

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J_brill said:
That's good to know. So all you really need is the turbo, ecu, and injectors (+ obvious stuff like intake, dv, and exhaust)?
All u need is the turbo, ecu, 5 bar FPR and the misc. items. No need for injectors. If you're ever down in OC and want to test drive one let me know?

Pat....Still working on getting the car tuned. I'm not sure what the hold up is but hopefully I'll get an answer soon. Meanwhile, I'll be getting rid of the air box and going with an open air filter and a heat shield custom made by me. Also, what boost are u holding around 6K RPM? I'm at 1.1 to 1.2 bar.
 

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ONE8T, those are really impressive numbers. I posted earlier in this thread about Siemens injectors and spacers and well, I have gone the K04 route and put in other mods. I don’t want to hijack your thread but simply want to add and discuss similar information. With that said, maybe you can help me out in narrowing some issues I’m currently having.

Pertaining mods in the car:
00 audi 1.8tqm ATW
K04 w/ GIAC K05 program (their basic K04 program)
Greddy FMIC
APR TIP
NGK BRK7E at 0.028”
Open air intake
AFPR (set at 55psi)
310cc Siemens inj.
Ecode testpipe
Custom exhaust
Southbend St3 clutch

I could’ve easily ran the 5bar w/ stock injectors b/c that’s what the program calls for, and I have. Then in preparation for the J31 program, which is more aggressive because of advanced timing I put in the above injectors set at appropriate pressure. I ran all that with the stock SMIC and it pulled really fine. Then I installed the FMIC and I felt some power decrease. The car still boosts fine considering the cold weather (30F-50F range), but I feel loss of power, like the car is running too rich. I logged some data after noticing numerous misfires in cyl. 1. I pulled the plugs (3k miles old) and they were fouled as heck. Also, ever since I put in the testpipe (right after K04 and 7Es) there is a noticeable amount of soot all over my bumper and trunk. I put in a new set of 7Es and noticed a seldom misfire in cyl. 1. The car still pulls the same (not bad, but not like it should). This is the data that I pulled before the new plugs:









Look at how much the timing was pulled. Testing was done in 40F weather. Mass airflow is nice, pushing over 200g/s.

I still have some fiddling to do with the car, log some more data (I think block 032) to determine if I’m too rich and will put in a new set of BRK6E. Meanwhile, do you have any insight into why I do not feel what I should?

Thanks,
Alen
 

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don't have to "log" block 032. Just see what values are in there right now. be concerned about the 2nd value. if it's in the negative then the car is running rich. You can then fiddle with your fuel pressure to get it closer to 0.

Block 020 isn't that bad. It has some high CF at some points. But relatively in the 6's and below. Also log block 003 to get a look at that total timing BTDC.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
dpinell said:
don't have to "log" block 032. Just see what values are in there right now. be concerned about the 2nd value. if it's in the negative then the car is running rich. You can then fiddle with your fuel pressure to get it closer to 0.

Block 020 isn't that bad. It has some high CF at some points. But relatively in the 6's and below. Also log block 003 to get a look at that total timing BTDC.
Ditto on MB 032. All it would take is a small boost leak anywhere to go even richer, then at WOT you get fuel cut back. Just because you're reading decent boost at the manifold doesn't mean you don't have a leak somewhere. I'd have to check to be sure, but I think my pressure right now is around 52 and that's with the slightly larger maf housing which will lean it up slightly. Check trims and see what they show.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
alen said:
thanks but how do i check for trims?

alen
Check MB 032 on vagcom. No need to log, just read them as is, they adapt slowly over time. F1 is idle adapt, F2 is part/full throttle.
 

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Ok, so took some more logs today and graphed them below instead of reading them off after I put in a new set of BRK6E at 0.028". Took the 7Es out and after less than 300 miles the tips were white while everything else looked fouled. Also, there were multiple misfires in cyl. 1 at idle after running the car hard. With 6Es the car ran so much better. Noticed a misfire in cyl 1 (it's not the coilpack, I switched it with cyl. 3). Took note of block 32 and noticed that the second value (Partial Throttle -10.1%) went into the negatives.





Should I lean it out a little and if so, how much based on the percentages above? I'm concerned, though, because the plugs I took out were white.

Alen
 

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-10.1 is quite rich. drop your FPR by a few psi. Reset your fault codes (even if there isnt any) to reset block 032. Then drive a few miles to let it adapt and check again.

But before that, check all the connections to find any leaks. Esp the turbo inlet pipe and where it connects to the turbo itself.

Just remember to reset codes after every attempted "fix" so you can see the result in block 032.

As much as this is an interesting post, do you think posting a new thread would be better for more views? So one8t's dyno thread wont be hijacked ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Finally got a few runs on a Mustang dyno today. 3 runs, peak numbers were 211 whp and 227 wtq. Graph below of two runs. First run, not on graph, was 211 whp and 225 wtq. On the graphs run 2 was actually done first and was 206whp/227wtq. Those two runs were done with GIAC bqk05 program with 3.75 degrees of additional timing advance across the board. Run 1 on the graph (actually the 3rd run) was 200whp/222wtq and was done with the extra timing backed off. Results are very similar to the Rusty email dyno.

About a year ago I peaked at about 190 something whp on same machine before FMIC and cat delete pipe, but car slid on the rollers a bit and run was incomplete. Second run was around 180 whp and I considered worthless due to it being done immeditaly after the first run and my stock SMIC was heatsoaked.
 

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Pat, try out some NGK BKR8E-IX. I'm able to boost a little more than normal. I don't have any data but u can tell a small dfference. They're a range lower than the copper plugs that u use. Also, these are copper plugs too its just that the tip is iridium. No need to regap. They already come gaped at .28
 

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Discussion Starter #56
Pat, try out some NGK BKR8E-IX. I'm able to boost a little more than normal. I don't have any data but u can tell a small dfference. They're a range lower than the copper plugs that u use. Also, these are copper plugs too its just that the tip is iridium. No need to regap. They already come gaped at .28
Thanks! It's winter here now and I'm back to 6's, seem to work the best. Maybe I'll try the IX 7's now or just try the 8's next year when I'd normally switch back to 7's. At $7-8 a pop, the experimentation is a little more expensive.
 

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Thanks! It's winter here now and I'm back to 6's, seem to work the best. Maybe I'll try the IX 7's now or just try the 8's next year when I'd normally switch back to 7's. At $7-8 a pop, the experimentation is a little more expensive.
Yeah, it is. I was able to get them for $6.70 ea. Try a local shop or order them online. They'll last you longer...about 15K miles.
 

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Those two runs were done with GIAC bqk05 program with 3.75 degrees of additional timing advance across the board. Run 1 on the graph (actually the 3rd run) was 200whp/222wtq and was done with the extra timing backed off. Results are very similar to the Rusty email dyno.
ONE8T, I just saw this post...nice job!

A couple of things...when you mention changing the timing...you're talking about using lemmiwinks?

Also some observations. Ive dyno'd 195 and 221 WHP on mustang dynos yet i have slower CAPS times, which jives with the AWD drivetrain losses.

Also, I noticed your torque rises quickly...where mine slowly creeps up. Do you think this is because of your exhaust? (mine is stock).


(click for larger pic)
 

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Mods at time of e-mail dyno:

AUG engine code, K04 turbocharger
GIAC programming - chk01a file (K04 program for 2001.5 Audi A4)
Custom MAF housing (designed & made by yours truly)
380cc injectors - Siemens DEKA with 3 bar FPR
GFB plumbback diverter valve
NewSouthPerformance intake manifold gasket
NGK BKR7E copper plugs, .028 gap in summer
3 bar Bosch boost sensor (eliminates overboost codes, throttle cut & limp)
"H" N75 valve
ECS Tuning lightweight/underdriven crank pulley
ITG Air Filter
Techtonics downpipe
Techtonics 2.5" exhaust with Borla muffler & straight tip
3 bar Bosch boost sensor..
How can I find?
 
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