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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, i recently purchased a 2001 passat 1.8t with the aug engine, the car has 160,000 miles on it. i do not know of the past history of the car. I was driving one day and the car starting beeping and overheating. I pulled over popped open the hood and the coolant reservoir was filled, but as i kept looking the coolant completely flushed out the reservoir from a hole on the bottom that looks like its suppose to be there. I refilled the reservoir with water so that i can make it home. I made it home without the car overheating. I did a flush of the coolant and put in new g12. I drove the car again and the coolant leaked out of this hole again but only when the car is stopped. The heater also does not work and now when i drive the car the coolant starts to boil and steam inside of the reservoir until i stop the car and it all leaks out of the whole. I also notice that when i started the car today the coolant tank was empty but i till started the car. As the car turned on, the tank become filled because the coolant reversed into it from the lower hose connecting to the radiator. I am not sure whats wrong but i cant drive the car now even with the heater on because it still overheats. Can someone help please and thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Im not sure if the heater was working before because i never have to use it, but it does work when the car is being driven. But wont blow heat at idle. I will be replacing the water pump. Thanks for the reply and help.
 

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Whatever you do, during your tests, if the needle even BUDGES from the mid-point, STOP THE ENGINE IMMEDIATELY. Throwing the car in to total overheat repeatedly will make short work of destroying your engine.
 

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So i removed the thermostat and tried to spin the water pump as i read, and it did not move at all. Im going to replace the thermostat. If thats not the solution, where should i look next?
As the water pump runs off the timing belt you might as well get the timing belt kit that includes pump and thermostat.
Check if there is mayo type stuff on the oil filler cap.... it's a sign head gasket has gone. Would be good to know that before spending $$$ on the car.
 

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As the water pump runs off the timing belt you might as well get the timing belt kit that includes pump and thermostat.
Check if there is mayo type stuff on the oil filler cap.... it's a sign head gasket has gone. Would be good to know that before spending $$$ on the car.
Mayo on the filler cap can just be a sign that the car hasn't been run long enough to boil off moisture; condensation collects on the cap, so even a perfectly fine engine can have that. Oily milk on the dipstick is more reliable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I replaced the thermostat , flushed the system completely and bleed the system through the heater core.i learned that the coolant is not flowing through the hose that goes to the thermostat. I can also hear a sound from the engine which makes me think the water pump is bad. Coolant is not circulating. I have a pic of the water pump. I do not know when it was changed. I sm thinking its the water pump. I dont think its the head gasket because the car is not smoking and i dont see any oil in the coolant. Also could it be the radiator?
 

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There should be no flow through the bottom radiator hose before the engine reaches operating temp.
How did you learn that the coolant is not flowing through the hose that goes to the thermostat ?
How do you know that "Coolant is not circulating." ?

Please try to stick to facts, if you want to speculate make it clear you are speculating.


If the head is cracked between the coolant gallery and combustion chamber, you won't get oil in the coolant
but there might be coolant in the oil; and you might get steam from the exhaust.
Remove the plugs and check for signs of coolant, get someone to crank the engine while you watch the plug holes,
if there is coolant spray or coolant in the plugs you have a cracked head or blown gasket.
 

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I think there were 2 types of head bolts used, you will need to check which type you have. You will need to get new head bolts, they are TTY (one time use).
Get the head professionally checked for warping and cracks.
 

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Look at the bolts; they are most likely 10mm "Triple-square". The appropriate tool is easily available via mail order or some auto parts stores. Also make sure you have an accurate torque wrench; if you are budget-constrained, an inexpensive dial or beam wrench (if you can use one properly) is infinitely preferable to trusting your head bolts to a $10 clicker from Harbor Freight. Locate a full DIY, with torquing instructions; the pattern you tighten things down is important.

And as Tom said, you need to get the head checked out. Part of every proper HG job is taking the head to a machine shop to look it over and smooth it down. (As in, the HG didn't fail for no reason; it's either warped or cracked.)

This would be a good time to do a full t-belt job. (T-belt, tensioner, idler, water pump, coolant, t-stat, accessory belts)
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
so i replaced the head gasket, took the head to get resurfaced and pressure tested. I put everything back together yesterday. i Used new head bolts, new water pump, and new timing belt. now the car won't start. It cranks but won't start. As i let go of the ignition the car backfires from the exhaust. It is also smoking from the air box. The car is getting fuel, the spark plugs are brand new. Im not sure what it is.
 
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