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My girlfriend has a 2000 VW Passat 4cyl 1.8T. She drives the vehicle everyday, in fact made a trip well over 400 miles last month. Yesterday, she's driving and all is fine. She parked (ignition off) and went into the store for 10min. When she came out and attempted to start the vehicle, it wouldn't start. She tried a few more times but nothing. She said the epc light came on and the check engine light. About 30-45 minutes later, I got there and the car started right up as if nothing ever happened and ran fine the rest of the day. The very next day, the problem resurfaced. I went 1/4 mile down the street and the car just lost power while i'm attempting to accelerate. It wouldn't start for about an hour:banghead:. I went to get check engine light check-up...it says nothing about EPC but shows trouble code p0411(Secondary Air Injection System Incorrect Flow Detected). The auto parts guy said that p0411 shouldn't cause my car to cut off or not start all together. Today, I went out and the vehicle won't crank at all!!!! :mad:What would cause this behavior? What should I do to fix it?:confused:
 

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Generally, it's the RPM sensor (aka Crank sensor, reference sensor). If you reach back behind the oil cooler, it is held in with one bolt to the block. The plug is on the firewall under the coolant tank and is grey. Man, there is a high occurance of these failures this year. $25-$50 from amazon. The code should be a P0321 or 322. I wonder if it's from all of the record heat.....
 

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I may be wrong about this, but I don't think a bad speed sensor would keep the engine from cranking at all, would it?

How's the battery?
 

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missed that. Only one instance of mentioning cranking. thought it was a typo and he meant starting......OP, please clarify.

If it really won't even begin to move the starter, then I'd be looking at the ignition switch by testing the contacts at various positions and battery voltage.
 

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I have a very similar problem with my 2000 1.8t (auto). It stopped for no reason, no cranking but all the lights and everything works. Replaced the battery and still nothing. Had a mechanic check and only thing they could find was my alternator was a bit weak, but wouldn't stop it from firing up. When I took it to them (after it sitting in my driveway for 3 weeks) fired up just fine for them, every time, for 3 days. I got it back and after a week, it's now NOT starting again. I went to start it this morning to go to work and same problem. It's driving me NUTS!! PLEASE HELP! I've been searching this forum for weeks and I'm finding similar problems, but not the same, and no one clear resolution.
 

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You've got to start breaking it down from easiest to hardest things to check because the ignition system is quite extensive (on any car mind you.)

Common places to start:
- Battery and alternator (easiest to check) can go to Autozone/Advance to have it checked for free.
- While at Autozone/Advance get the codes scanned, you could have an intermittently working sensor which could be the reason why it's sporadic.
- In order to start the car it needs 3 items: fuel, spark, and air. Verify that you're receiving all three.
- Listen for the buzz of the fuel pump priming when you first get in the car and turn the key (comes from the rear seat area, easier to hear with the seats down.)
- Check the fuel pump relay, ignition switch, and crankshaft position sensor (a somewhat common sensor that prevents the car from starting if not working properly.) Best to check all these items with a multimeter by testing for voltage from the plug, ohming it out (for sensors,) and testing for continuity if its a switch.

Major items that would prevent it from starting:
- Starter or starter solenoid
- Break in a wiring harness somewhere
- Fuel pump is doneskies
- Really bad gas, at least this would cause some strange problems.

You're going to have to do a bit of digging. Electrical gremlins are the hardest to diagnose because the system just has various components.
 

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its a bad ignition switch.
 

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its a bad ignition switch.
May be the case when it doesn't crank but a bad ignition switch will not make the car lose power while trying to accelerate. Sounds like you may have multiple issues causing these two different problems but jay is probably onto something if it cranks sometimes and won't crank others. Also keep in mind for the no crank that these cars are known for wiring failure to the CCM due to corrosion at the wire splices under the carpet in front of the driver seat. Good luck with this one.:wrench:
 

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You've got to start breaking it down from easiest to hardest things to check because the ignition system is quite extensive (on any car mind you.)

Common places to start:
- Battery and alternator (easiest to check) can go to Autozone/Advance to have it checked for free.
- While at Autozone/Advance get the codes scanned, you could have an intermittently working sensor which could be the reason why it's sporadic.
- In order to start the car it needs 3 items: fuel, spark, and air. Verify that you're receiving all three.
- Listen for the buzz of the fuel pump priming when you first get in the car and turn the key (comes from the rear seat area, easier to hear with the seats down.)
- Check the fuel pump relay, ignition switch, and crankshaft position sensor (a somewhat common sensor that prevents the car from starting if not working properly.) Best to check all these items with a multimeter by testing for voltage from the plug, ohming it out (for sensors,) and testing for continuity if its a switch.

Major items that would prevent it from starting:
- Starter or starter solenoid
- Break in a wiring harness somewhere
- Fuel pump is doneskies
- Really bad gas, at least this would cause some strange problems.

You're going to have to do a bit of digging. Electrical gremlins are the hardest to diagnose because the system just has various components.
Thanks for the reply. I've already replaced the battery and starter was tested OK. Alternator was tested to, it was found to be "going out" but not the problem, although I plan to replace very soon.

I'll try checking the relay next. I believe that's under the dash, #132 if I remember correctly?

Thanks again for the assistance.
 

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Thanks I'll pull the carpet and check the CCM. Anything in particular I should key in on or just general deterioration?
 

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Thanks I'll pull the carpet and check the CCM. Anything in particular I should key in on or just general deterioration?
There are four connections that come from the wiring that runs along the side car under the plastic that the door bottom meets up with when shut. Three of the connections are 2 wires going into one and the fourth is like 7 wires that connect to one on the way to the CCM. This 7 into one was the most corroded for me but it was one of the 2 into 1 that caused my no crank, no interior lights, no anti theft armability and no power windows. I had to replace a bit of the wire because it was black copper for a foot or two from this connection so be sure to have good gold copper where you re-solder the connections and replace whatever wire is necessary. Good luck!
 

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Check the wires under the drivers seat carpet. They are prone to moisture and corrode easily. Any problems with lights, windows, or locks?
 

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Check the wires under the drivers seat carpet. They are prone to moisture and corrode easily. Any problems with lights, windows, or locks?
No just the "no starting" problem. The only other issue is battery is not charging all the way. With ignition off I have about 11.59 volts. As stated before, I know my alternator is weak, but should be enough to start it. Even after recharging the battery or getting a jump, it does not start.
 

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I just had a no start issue along with the key fobs not working and interior lights not coming on. Fuse #14 popped, for comfort features I think. So I prob have a short in a wire like described above. I replaced the fuse and hasn't burnt out in 24 hours
 

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I had similar issue as the OP with my 2001.5 1.8T Passat. Took a few cranks before the car started. EPC light came on, then CEL. My mechanic says it was the crank reference sensor, as VAGguy suggested, and it was replaced. He had to remove/replace my oil filter to replace the crank reference sensor.
 

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This thread has been dead for over 3 years, I think the other posters would have got their cars started before now.
Is this a question ?
 

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It took me a minute to understand your comment. But then I realized it was about recursion. And to explain recursion, you have to start with recursion.
 

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I have a very similar problem with my 2000 1.8t (auto). It stopped for no reason, no cranking but all the lights and everything works. Replaced the battery and still nothing. Had a mechanic check and only thing they could find was my alternator was a bit weak, but wouldn't stop it from firing up. When I took it to them (after it sitting in my driveway for 3 weeks) fired up just fine for them, every time, for 3 days. I got it back and after a week, it's now NOT starting again. I went to start it this morning to go to work and same problem. It's driving me NUTS!! PLEASE HELP! I've been searching this forum for weeks and I'm finding similar problems, but not the same, and no one clear resolution.
I have the exact same issues in my 2004 Passat 1.8T.

It's not the battery, starter, or alternator. The car would have never started if any of these were the issue.

Grab a hammer 🔨 and a friend, locate the fuel tank under your vehicle, get your friend to try starting your vehicle while you're giving a light whack to the gas tank with the hammer. Give it a few good smacks while they're trying and if it starts, congratulations you need a new fuel pump.

The vibrations from the hammer are what's caused it to temporarily start, but don't try to drive it as you'll most likely stall out shortly afterwards.

If it's not starting, then disconnect your battery as you might need a hard reset of your battery as it's not recognizing your key for some reason.
 

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I have the exact same issues in my 2004 Passat 1.8T.

It's not the battery, starter, or alternator. The car would have never started if any of these were the issue.

Grab a hammer 🔨 and a friend, locate the fuel tank under your vehicle, get your friend to try starting your vehicle while you're giving a light whack to the gas tank with the hammer. Give it a few good smacks while they're trying and if it starts, congratulations you need a new fuel pump.

The vibrations from the hammer are what's caused it to temporarily start, but don't try to drive it as you'll most likely stall out shortly afterwards.

If it's not starting, then disconnect your battery as you might need a hard reset of your battery as it's not recognizing your key for some reason.
This is bad advice, but I guess that doesn't matter much, as the thread is over 5 years old.
 
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