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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just finished replacing the cam chain tensioner gaskets. When taking things apart I had the cams 180 degrees off, so the cam timing was messed up. I followed the manual's procedure for setting the intake and exhaust cams; aligning the notches in the cams with the arrows on the bearing caps and counting 16 cam chain rollers between the notches, but on one the drivers side I think I was getting 15 rollers when the notches were lined up properly. It is not clear where to start and stop counting rollers, since the notch and rollers don't line up exactly. I decided it was more important to align the notches with the bearing cap arrows, so that's what I did.

Now it's all back together and it's not running so good. I have a few other things to check before deciding that the cam timing is faulty, but wondering if anyone has set the cams up from scratch, and has any advice on how to do it properly.

Thanks!
 

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The first thing you need to check out is the crankshaft pulley mark relative to the mark on the plastic cover behind the crankshaft pulley.
Depending on far off the marks are, you may need to remove the camshafts.


From scratch, I take that as everything being removed and starting over with either the heads or the cams removed.

The proper procedure is as follows.
With the heads on the engine.
Cams should be removed so the crankshaft timing marks can be lined up.
Line up the crankshaft pulley notch to the mark on the plastic cover.
Install crankshaft lock pin.
Install camshafts, line up the timing marks on camshafts to the marks on the cam caps.




With the camshaft pulleys loose so they rotate on the camshafts,
Install the locking bar.
Install the timing belt.
Release the tensioner so it tensions the timing belt.
When the tensioner has applied sufficient pressure on the timing belt, torque the bolt on the exhaust cam to lock the cam pulley.
Remove the crankshaft locking pin.



These are the absolute basic steps but he most important ones to achieve the proper static timing between the crankshaft and camshafts.
 

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I've torn apart and put together at least 20 V6 engines over the past few years.
I'm going to offer up some advice and some of the issues I've come to notice as common place.
If re-using old parts such CCT's with worn cam chain pads and used cam chains, getting the roller count between the cams and having the notches on the cams can prove to be a difficult task.
The position of the CCT in it's up and down stroke can also greatly effect the lining up of the camshaft marks.
Slight adjustment (by pulling or pushing on the cam chain pads) of the CCT may be required to get the camshafts to line up.
It's hard to believe but the cam chains can and do stretch, some more or less than others. If replacing the CCT's, I normally replace the cam chains. They are cheap (about $20 per chain) and bring everything back to and as close as factory as you can get.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
This is really helpful, thank you. Yes, I had the crankshaft aligned and pinned, so I know that is correct. The diagrams that you provide are great; they explain how you could have difficulty counting rollers; different from one bank to the other. Which sides are cylinder bank 1 and 2? If bank 1 is the passenger side, that would make sense given what I saw counting rollers, and cam notch alignment.

Looks like the passenger side CCT's solenoid is leaking oil where it is attached to the CCT. It was a little loose, so I tightened the mounting screws, but it still is leaking. Do you know what the seal is that is in there? I don't think it is a part that is available from VW.
 

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Exactly how did you set the cams back after they were 180 out? I am not certain what the manual calls for.

In reality, the cams would have been fine as it is a full rotation of the crank to get them back inline with the locking tool.
 

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As to how I set the cams back, I pulled them out entirely when I was replacing the CCT seals. Then I set them up in the proper orientation when putting it all back together.
That's good, I was just worried about damage if they were not moved properly. The PDF did not load, but I've done them several times.

Have you scanned for codes? It's not uncommon to have misfires on the V6 after working on it. They flood very easily for some reason.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
That's good, I was just worried about damage if they were not moved properly. The PDF did not load, but I've done them several times.

Have you scanned for codes? It's not uncommon to have misfires on the V6 after working on it. They flood very easily for some reason.
I do have codes, but have not gotten to scan them yet. Scanner won't connect unless the radio is removed, and I didn't have the radio remover tool with me. That's another thing I need to figure out; where the wiring issue is that is keeping the scanner from connecting.
 

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Scanner won't connect unless the radio is removed.
Whaaa…
Now that's one I haven't heard about yet.

Maybe FrescoGreen01.5 can help you out on this one. He seems to be the resident wiring schematic guru.
If I knew half the stuff he does about electrical I might amount to something.

An a somewhat unrelated topic. I can re-wire / wire up a complete house from the service coming in using 110/120 - 220/240 volt and even 3way & 4way switches in my sleep, but as soon as I look at a car I'm lost. Now what's up with that?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
In my situation, it's strange because I have the original radio installed. I think I started having the scanner connection problem when I accidentally severed the two wires that go to the hood lock micro-switch (for the alarm). But the problem has persisted even though I now have them reconnected. I don't know?
 
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