Volkswagen Passat Forum banner
21 - 40 of 42 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter · #21 ·
An Update...while waiting on the last of the parts, ive been working on the passenger side head to replace the cct. The top guide shoe is grooved but the bottom is missing altogether. Not good. I didn't find much of the guide so I suspect it's in the pan. I've read the Bentley head install and valve train install procedures and neither mention when to install the cam oil seals and cam plugs. Should they be done while installing the cams, or driven in after?
Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18 Show Content
103726
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,790 Posts
Nice, looks just like one of my old ones.
Looks someone's going to be removing an oil pan.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
28,451 Posts
The cam caps on back/plugs on back can be installed anytime as they go on the exhaust cam that is not removed. The seals would depend on the type of seal. The only spring type can go in before the bearing/bridges go on. The PTFE seals should be put on after everything is back in place.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter · #24 ·
I just saw this post! I finished the passenger side this afternoon. It's at 16 rollers. Does this look correct? I didn't install the oil seals yet since I wasn't sure i received the correct seals. I removed ptfe seals but received Spring seals.
Can the bridge be removed only to install the seals? Rotate off the valves to relieve tension?
103766

103763
103764
103765
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,790 Posts
Your missing a bolt (red circle) on the CCT.

Other than It looks to be correct.
Yes you can take the bridge off. Don't worry about rotating the cams. The bridge does not hold down the camshaft at all.
I wouldn't worry about not having the PTFE seals.
The spring loaded seals (usually rusty orange in color) will work just fine.
I actually prefer those over the PTFE ones. They are much more forgiving when installing and less likely to leak after installation. Just my personal preference.

103768
 
  • Like
Reactions: Tomvw

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Awesome...and thanks for the heads up. I suspect the notches will align when the cct is filled with oil and fully tensioned. Will rotate the assembly by hand before buttoning it up.
On to the drivers side...not looking forward to Exhaust manifold install. I didn't disassemble at the flange since i couldn't reach (or see) the inboard bolt. Instead I removed it at the head. What a pita that was.
Can it be reached now that the intake is off?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
28,451 Posts
I don't remember them all that well, but I was able to get the exhaust flange bolts out by a combination of removing the throttle body, O2 sensor, and getting some from below. I remember the passenger side being worse.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,104 Posts
You should press the seals in with the bridge installed.
The bore and outer edge of seal should be clean and dry, if using spring type seals smear oil on the shaft and the inner surface (where it touches the shaft) of the seal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Thanks for the info it's coming along nicely. Installed the head yesterday. The exhaust flange bolts can be accessed before the combi valve is installed. The marks don't like up as nicely as did the passenger side...
103883
103884
103885
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Great! Yes I did install the bolt. A ew observations...I torqued the head bolts to spec: 44 lbs then two 90 deg. passes. I used a ratchet and/or breaker bar to get around tight areas and the fire wall. It was difficult to calculate the angle.
In hindsight, after the initial 44 lbs, I should have marked the head of each bolt at 12oclock. Then it would have been easy to see each 90 deg. pass. I don't see mentioned a final torque spec to check. Is it too late to redo?...remove and replace with new bolts? No fluids are in yet.
The progress...
103919
103918
103921
some cross hatching still visible at 113k
103917
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
28,451 Posts
There is no final torque spec on the head bolts. They are stretch bolts and the 44lbs plus the 2x90 are the spec. I put a line of White-out on the head bolt socket, so I could measure the 2x90 easier.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter · #35 ·
That's a great solution. Any opinions on replacing bolts and not pulling the head or will the head gasket be compromised?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,575 Posts
My $0.02 (and that's about what it is worth....) is that I'd expect the expansion and contraction of the aluminum head to be much larger than any compression of the head gasket material. In other words, I think you could just replace the bolts and leave the gasket alone.

I'd be sure to follow the removal procedure which is the revers of the install, meaning slowly release tension on the bolts in multiple passes starting at the outside and going in (or vice-versa, check the Bentley to be sure).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,104 Posts
I would loosen all bolts about 3/4 of a turn (270 degrees), then replace all bolts one by one to about 10 ft lbs.
Then complete torqueing in normal manner.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter · #39 ·
We have ignition...and running great. Feeling like a BOSS. Even the wife says I'm more attractive.. Let's back up...loosened the headbolts out in pattern about 1/4 turn then installed new, no problem. Saw threads about replacing coolant O rings, so did those too. Everything buttoned up nicely and rotated freely. She started right up. The lifters were noisy for a bit but quieted down and the engine is now almost silent. I've got about 600 miles on the repair and no leaks or lights. Holy shit I can't believe it worked. I could not have done it without the help from you guys. Thank You! -FRANKTHETANK
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
28,451 Posts
Great news.
 
21 - 40 of 42 Posts
Top