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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 98, probably around 8Ok miles. It goes away after a bit, but how can I fix it?
 

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80k... that is likely the preliminary to the oil pump screen getting clogged with coked oil particles and sludge. My 98 started ticking around there and eventually I lost oil pressure to the point where I had to replace the oil pump, clean the pan out and replace the turbo! Do a search for "oil pump" to see other threads.

Get some Auto-RX and do their clean/rinse cycle. You may just be shocked at how good your engine sounds after you're all done. www.Auto-RX.com They offer a discount for ClubB5 members. Good people.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Its only around idle yes. It is normal too I guess, but thanks Eric...Peter...whatever! I'll give it a shot.

How can I get me a discount?
 

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Mine does it when ever I get a tad low on oil....been like that for years....
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yeah? Funny you mentioned that, we need an oil change soon.
 

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The discount is available right off the main page of Auto-RX.

I really wish I had paid more attention to what the upper end sound of the engine was telling me about oil pressure/delivery. Jumping on the issue right away with Auto-RX would have saved me $ and time.

With a very clean engine and no oil pressure problems I get no valve train sounds at all now. Smooth as silk.
 

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I have had similiar problems. My question is: Are you guys replacing your oil pump for good measure or has the clogged intake screen caused them to fail outright? If I can clear the screen using auto-RX do I still need to replace the oil pump?

Thanks, you guys are great.
 

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Also guys, FYI. The EVAP purge valve, which sits on top of the airbox will tick at idle when the car is warmed up. That valve reintroduces fuel vapors from the tank into the intake tract as part of the emmissions control system. Its programmed not to work when the car is cold. Mine has been ticking for a couple years now on my 2000, and other clubb5.com members also have the same symptoms. General consensus is not to change it until it fails or throws a code. Good Luck.
 

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LCFlying,

In my case my oil pressure problem was so severe because there was so little oil flow that I couldn't do the Auto-RX treatment which takes a 1,000 of treatment and then more miles for the rinse cycle. I could not run the engine without damage, in other words. I had to drop the pan. (Not an easy task.)

It was indeed a coked/clogged oil pump screen (and pan) but after all that effort and with 100k on the engine, and with a pump costing just $190, I put a new one in for good measure, then ran Auto-RX to clean the rest of the engine.

The idea in using Auto-RX instead of dropping the pan is if you have a situation where you get marginal (not no) pressure but can run the car to clean the screen and other parts. The idea of using a more severe quick flush is where you can't use Auto-RX but want to try to clear the intake screen without pulling the pan.

I hope that clarifies it for you.

HarrisburgJoe: Thanks a bunch!
 

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My 98 1.8T started getting noisy, little trashy at higher rpms until I removed my Valve cover and notice that some of the camshaft bolts needed to be re-torque. That was about 10+k miles ago, no noise since. Something to look for if all else fails.
 
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