Volkswagen Passat Forum banner

1 - 20 of 343 Posts

I'm just itching to be Banned
13,872 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have made the following list of FAQ, and solutions to common problems with the B5 and B5.5 Volkswagen Passats, for the 1.8t Passat

Common Questions

Q. How do I know what engine code my passat is, and what does it look like?

A. The Passat engine code is a three letter code, such as AEB, AWM, etc. You can find out what engine code your Passat is by doing one of the following,

1) Looking at the sticker on the middle pillar of the drivers door.
2) Open the trunk, lift up the carpet, remove the spare tire and look at the sticker in the spare tire well.
3) Looking at the head of your engine (1.8t)
4) Looking at the block

Below is a list of all of the Passat engine codes:

US Market Volkswagen Passats
1997-1999 Passat: AEB
1999-2001 Passat: ATW
2001 Passat: AUG/AWM
2002-2004 Passat: AWM

US Market Audi engine codes (for reference purposes)

US Market Audi
1997-1999 A4: AEB
2000 A4: ATW
2001 A4: AWM
2002 A4: AMB

Engine Information

VW/Audi Engine Info
-058 Block: external water pump
-06A Block: internal water pump
-Displacement: 1.8L (1781cc)
-Firing Order: 1-3-4-2
-Cylinder #1 is next to the timing belt
-All catbacks are 2.17"
-Oil Capacity: 4.6qt (3.8 qt for earlier 1.8T's. Please check your manual for added reference to avoid overfilling.)
-Head bolt size: 11mm AEB, 10mm all others

Engine dimensions for OE engines:

Bore size - 81mm (3.19in)

Stroke - 86.4mm (3.40in)

Rod Length - 144mm

Engine Code: AEB,ATW,AUG
Model Years: 1997-2000
Compression Ratio: 9.5:1
Horsepower (SAE Net): 150 @ 5700 RPM
Torque: 155 ft. [email protected] 1750 RPM
ECU: 97-99.5 Motronic ME3.8.2/ME5.9, 2000+ is Motronic ME7.1
DP Size: 50mm (1.97")
Turbo: K03
OE Boost: .6 Bar (8.7psi)

Engine Code: AWM
Model Years: 2002-2005
Compression Ratio: 9.3:1
Horsepower (SAE Net): 170 @ 5900 RPM
Torque: 166 ft. lbs. @ 1950 RPM
ECU: Motronic ME7.1
DP Size: 50mm (1.97")
Turbo: K03s
OE Boost: .6 Bar (8.7psi)

Head Differences between Engine Codes
* Size of intake/exhaust ports (image), AEB only US spec head to have larger ports.
* Use of tensioners (VVT or non-VVT)
* Valve covers
* Camshaft gear (06A vs 058)
* Hall sensor/CPS Shutter window - AEB has 1 window, all others have 4

058 Old Style
Came in the 058 external waterpump blocks only in longitudinal cars.(A4, Passat) These all have the “short”, small diameter snout. These cranks are all cast, and come with a toothed 60-2 wheel. There are 2 versions– the difference being the spigot on flywheel end.

Manual These have a pilot bearing pressed into the bulbous spigot on the flywheel end.

Automatic- This has a much flatter protrusion on the flywheel end and no provision for a pilot bearing.

06A New Style
These came in all 06A blocks with internal waterpump, both longitudinal and transverse. (Some codes AWD, AWW, AWP, AMB, AMU, AWM) These all have the “long”, large diameter snout. These cranks are cast or forged, and come with a windowed 60-2 wheel. There are 3 versions

Transverse manual/automatic- These are all forged and have provision for a pilot bearing to be pressed into the bulbous spigot on the flywheel end, but no bearing is installed.

Longitudinal manual- These are all cast and have a pilot bearing pressed into the bulbous spigot on the flywheel end.

Longitudinal automatic- These are all cast and have a much flatter spigot on the flywheel end and no provision for a pilot bearing.


058 and 06A cranks are not interchangeable- they must match the block.

Transverse applications can use any of the above listed cranks.

Longitudinal manual applications can use the transverse forged crank with the installation of a pilot bearing. They may also use the longitudinal automatic crank if an adapter is machined to accept the pilot bearing.

Longitudinal automatic applications can use the transverse forged crank, or longitudinal manual crank if the spigot on the flywheel is machined down to clear the torque converter.

Trigger wheels are physically interchangeable, but early "bar" style sensors can only go in early blocks.

The early toothed wheel is better for SEM applications

Cast Cranks


Forged Cranks


Large vs Small Port
- The AEB is the only US OE large port head, see first section for what models the AEB was available in.
Port size differences (AEB vs all other US spec engine codes):
* Intake ports - 54x26mm vs 43x26mm
* Exhaust Ports - 36mm vs 33mm

Head Swapping - Large Port/AEB head on Small Port Block and the reverse
All 20v heads are interchangeable!

Large port heads have no provision for the combi valve, thus you're secondary air injection pump not properly functioning and will throw a CEL. CELs can be avoided with resistors or better yet some chip tuner's code will ignore the errors and not display the CEL.

On engines with VVT you can swap the VVT solenoid into a non-VVT head without issue.

AEBs use 1 window cam trigger wheels, if your putting the AEB head on a small port post 2000 motor be sure to use the 4 window trigger wheel from the original head

Cam pulley must match the short block. Putting a large port AEB head on a post 2000 06A block must retain the OE cam pulley, the 058/AEB pulley will not seat the timing belt correctly.

Common Passat/VW "Lingo"

AIT Sensor – This is a small sensor located in the intake manifold just after the throttle body. It is responsible for monitoring the intake temperature. It can get coated with oil, and can affect gas mileage, and a loss of power. It is common to remove it and clean it with alcohol, or electronics cleaner.

Boost Leak – View Block 032 with VAG Com. If Fuel Trims are Negative more than 5% in the load range there is a very good chance that there is a leak after the turbo. Visual inspection of clamps, hoses for a loose connection is the best way to look for leaks. A common place for leaks is at the entrance to the pancake pipe located in the passenger side fender. Also the small line on the DV can rip.
Fuel Trim Details Here -

CAI - Cold air intake

CTS – Coolant Temp Sensor – This part is prone to failure. 2002 and older vehicles had a bad coolant temp sensor from the factory that VW updated. It was a black sensor, and now the good one is referred to as a green top coolant temp sensor. Block 011 in the VAG COM can monitor coolant temp for erratic readings. This is a 7$ part. Do not change while engine is hot.

COAM - Colorado Outlaw Airbox Modification - Airbox mod by Passatworld member Boris to improve the efficiency of the cars air intake system

C/A - Control Arms - Central part of the suspension which is a common part of the Passat's suspension to have fail. Signs of a worn out Control Arm include clunking/groaning at low speeds.

Bagged - A Passat that has a custom air suspension rather than the normal spring and shock setup.

Static Drop - A Passat that has been lowered on either a spring and shock combo, or a coilover system. In other words a setup that stays at the same level, rahter than an air bag system that allows you to lower and raise the car at the touch of a button

Widow Maker - Common nickname for the notoriously dangerous stock VW jack to raise the Passat. The jack has been known to be very unstable/collapse at random, hence the widowmaker moniker.

OE - Original Equipment - Parts that come directly from the manufacturer.

Votex - VW custom parts for VW's

CEL/MIL - Check Engine Light/Malfunction Indicator Light two different names for the same thing. The CEL is notorious for coming on in a passat. There are three kinds of CEL's.

1) Solid CEL, the solid CEL means that something is wrong with your car. This is generally something minor.

2) Flashing CEL, a flashing CEL is an indicator that something serious is happening to your car, have your car taken to a repair facility as soon as possible. Avoid driving the car if possible.

3) Flashing CEL with the letters STOP on the dash. This is an indicator that there has been a critical issue with something on the car. Stop the car immediately, and turn the car off. Have the vehicle towed to your mechanic.

DV - Diverter Valve - The diverter valve is a very important part on the car, it keeps your boost in check, if your diverter valve is broken, you will most likely have little or no boost, or a car that has boost surges.

ECU - The ECU is responsible for nearly all functions on the car. If the ECU is suspected as a bad part, you need to use a scan tool such as a VAG com to attempt to communicate with the ECU. If you can’t communicate with the ECU, then the ECU needs replacement. Check all electrical connections. Check your Fuses for blown fuses. Whatever killed the ECU might kill the new one.

IC - Intercooler

FMIC - Front Mount Intercooler, the FMIC is an intercooler that is mounted centrally in the front bumper rather than off to the side as in the stock position. A front mount intercooler keeps the car cooler, and allows the car to have much more consistent performance and avoid the negative aspects of heatsoaking the intercooler.

BOV - Blow Off Valve - A Blow Off Valve is a replacement piece for a diverter valve. Instead of recirculating the air back to the engine like a diverter valve, a blow off valve releases the air into the atomesphere making a pshh pshh noise. The blow off valve is not reccomended for use on the 1.8t as it disrupts airflow to the engine and causes the engine to run rich and makes the turbo slower to spool both of which are negative aspects of the BOV.

Immobilizer (ECU Swapping Info)
All vehicles equipped with an immobilizer by 2002. Only exception is that some TTs in 00 had an immobilizer.
All vehicles equipped with an immobilizer in 2000.

The immobilizers is a theft prevention measure. If you swap an ECU without matching up the ECU and the cluster, it will start briefly and then die repeatedly flashing the immobilizer light on the dash (looks like a car outline with the base a key). There are 2 kinds of immobilizer. Immo II used on pre 2002, and Immo III used on 2002+. Immobilizer and ECU info can be found on the VAG COM Site.

If swapping an engine into a car without an immobilizer/cluster, you can get software for swaps from many chip tuners that remove the immobilizer from the ECU.

Limp Mode – These cars are designed to protect themselves from engine damage. If the engine boosts too much, or the engine does not get enough fuel it will go into a limp mode where boost is limited to protect the engine. It limits boost by controlling a solenoid on the wastegate line (N75), by closing the electronic throttle or by opening the DV valve. If you are experiencing a limp mode the best thing to do is get the car scanned for codes and to see what is wrong. Look at fuel trims for signs of running lean, and to look for MAF problems, or O2 sensor problems. To look for potential boost problems log Block 115 and you can see the specified Vs actual boost. If you exceed the specified then there is a good chance that you will go into this limp mode. Stock specified is a max of 14 psi for a 2002+ car.

- The MAP sensor is located in the OE SMIC end tank. There are two different sized MAP sensors, and VW didn't make the transition based on years but cars from all years might have either the small or large version (rumor has it the small version didn't come around till ~2003). When your upgrading your intercooler to a larger SMIC or FMIC and need to specify which MAP sensor your car is running the only fool proof way to check which sensor your car has. If you are making custom piping and need a MAP sensor flange check out 42nd Draft Design for a universal solution.
Rule of Thumb appears to be:
2002 and earlier cars = large MAP
2003 and later cars = small or large MAP

AEB vehicles do not have MAP sensors, they have BARO sensors instead.

MAF - Mass Air Flow Meter - is used to measure the air going into the engine. It is located on the outlet of the airbox, and housed in a cylindrical tube. The ECU reads the MAF signal, and injects fuel in proportion to the airflow. There are a few different ways the MAF can fail. The MAF can get coated with oil, and will not read properly. This is common if it happens right after installing a CAI, or a K&N filter. It can be cleaned out with 99% isopropyl alcohol, or a quality electronics cleaner. Remove the sensor from the housing and clean the sensor element.
MAF sensors also go bad due to too much airflow. On a car with a larger turbo the airflow is so high that the MAF element will get burned out from the excess air flow. It is common to increase the size of the housing to prevent this (other modifications required).
To check for a BAD MAF the best way is with a VAG com. Block 002 show air mass from the sensor. At idle the air flow should be 2-4 grams/second. With a wide open throttle run to redline the reading should show up to 170 g/s on a chipped car. Look for jumpy readings in the MAF, which can indicate a problem. More details here:

if you suspect your MAF is bad, one way to test it is to unplug the MAF, often if the MAF is giving false readings and upsets the fueling. If you unplug it, the ECU will ignore the MAF and run off of baseline tables. Be careful, as a boost leak or a vacuum leak can be miss-diagnosed as a bad MAF, because they will throw off the readings on the MAF. (Air sneaks around the MAF).

MBC- Manual Boost Controller - Often people want more boost from their car, and use a MBC. While MBC’s can get you more boost they will cause a jerky part throttle driving, and can cause over boost, often put the car into a limp mode. The way a MBC works is by bleeding off air from the wastegate control line. A wastegate is a mechanical flapper valve in the turbocharger that opens to allow exhaust gas to sneak around the turbo. By bleeding off air from the line, the wastegate opens less, more exhaust goes through the turbo, and you get more boost.

Great details on wastegates here:

N75 – The N75 is an electronic solenoid valve that the ECU uses to control boost. It is located in the intake hose near the back right side of the engine. It has 3 connections.
1. Connects to charge pipe = pressure source
2. Connects to wastegate actuator
3. Connects to intake hose – bleed line.
The ecu will pulse this valve at a high frequency to bleed air off from the wastegate line. It does this based on throttle position and engine load. If the valve, or any of the liens connected to it have leaks then there can be severe boost regulation problems. It’s function is similar to the MBC above. To get more boost people often swap in different N75 valves. These different valves simply have a different response characteristic, and will act different when given the same signal by the ecu. They can get more boost, less boost, or even a big boost spike by swapping N75’s.

Chip/Flash - Chip and Flash are two names for the same thing, going to a chip dealer and getting the ECU rewritten to make the engine operate better. A chip will increase boost levels, give you more horsepower and torque, better gas mileage, among other features which vary from company to company.

Common 1.8T Problems And Solutions

Symptom: Items to Check

Rough Running At Idle: MAF, Ignition Coil, Spark Plug, VAC Leak, O2 Sensor, TB, CTS

Missfires under Boost Flashing CEL: Ignition Coils, Spark Plugs

Running Rich: Boost Leak, MAF, O2 Sensor, Coolant Temp Sensor

Running Lean: VAC Leak, MAF, O2 Sensor, Fuel Filter

Low Boost: Limp Mode, MBC, BOV, DV, Boost Leak, N75,

High Boost: MBC Setting, N75, Spark Plugs, Ignition Coils

Cold Start Problems: MAF, Spark Plugs, Fuel Pump Relay, CTS

Poor Gas Mileage: MAF, CTS, O2 Sensor, AIT Sensor

Cat Efficiency Below Threshold: Down pipe, CAT, Rear O2, RACE FUEL

No Start: Battery - ECU, Fuel Pump Relay, Ground

Start For 1 Second Stall: Immobilizer

Overheating: Waterpump, Thermostat, Head Gasket

Oil In Coolant: Oil Cooler, head Gasket, Water Wetter

Dies While Driving: Timing belt, Boost Leak, MISC

Shorts To ground CEL: Fuel Pump Relay, Bad Grounds

Oil in your IC/IC piping: Check your PCV system

Common Questions

Q)What Does A Dealer Do When They Chip My Car?


What Do I Need To Consider Before Chipping My Car/What Else Do I need To Buy For The Car?

Q) What Brands Of Chips Are There?


Q) Which Chip Is Best?

A) This is like asking what flavor of ice cream is best. They all have their own unique feel and features. Find someone who has the chip you are interested in and take their car for a test drive. Most companies will let you try out a "trial" tune for a certain period of time, this allows you to see what the car will drive like for free in your own car.

Q) How can I find out if my car is chipped?

A) The easiest is to use a boost gauge or RossTech's VAG-COM to monitor the boost levels of your vehicle. If the boost is greater than OE spec the vehicle does have some type of boost modifying modification. Check for a diode mod MAP clamp, MBC or chip.

Q) My car has more boost than stock but no diode or MBC, how can I tell what Tuner's chip I have?

A) The easiest is to contact the various chip tuners and supply them with your VIN to see if they have records of your vehicle. Another is to try the various tuner specific end user tools to switch chip tunes like APR's EMCS, REVO's SPSS and GIAC's Flashloader. If you can change the programming of your chip using one of these tools you likely have a chip tune from that particular company. If none of the above works you're unlikely to ever find out 100%.

Q) What gains will I get from removing the catalytic converter?

A) Use of a high flow after market catalytic converter or the complete removal of the unit from your exhaust can cause the rear O2 sensor to trigger the CEL light of code P0420. This error typically means that the cat if you've got one is not working at the level the ECU expects. What can you do about it? Some tuners offer "Test Pipe" files for "Off Road use only", this programming ignores the error and does not trigger the CEL. Another means is the use of a spacer to move the rear O2 sensor further from the exhaust gas flow. There is virtually no power gain from removing the catalytic converter, and removing it is illegal in most states and will cause you to fail smog/DEQ

Q) How do I know if one of my coilpacks is dead?

A) Testing for a bad coil (without Vag-Com)

-With the engine running, pull the suspect bad coil's wiring harness connector off the coil or pull the coil off the spark plug. If no changes happen to the idle of the motor its a bad plug, if it does change its likely ok.
Testing for a bad coil (with Vag-Com)

Log Blocks 015, and 016. This will be a misfire counter. Drive the car or let it run, and look for misfires. If you have a bad coil you will see the counter increase on a cylinder. If you have only one counting up then it’s probably a bad coil. Turn off engine and take that coil out and swap it with another coil. The cylinders read left to right 1,2,3,4 when looking at the engine from the front. Use the VAG again to see if the misfires have also swapped to another cylinder. If it moved, then you have a bad coil. Replace it. If they do not move, then you likely have a plug problem.
Coil Info:

On some cars the ignition coils have problems and they will pop up out of the cylinder head and lose contact with the plug, make sure your spark plugs are torqued to 22 ft-lbs when changed.

All coils are interchangeable as long as they have the correct number of pins. There are two styles of coils, 3pin (Found on AEB motors, and others of that era) which require external igniter and 4pin (Found on all recent motors 2000+) where the igniter is built into the coil itself. Depending on your engine code some trimming to the coil may be needed to push the coil all the way into the valve cover.

When swapping to the bolt down coils from push down coils use M6x1.00x25 or M6x1.00x30 screws

Q) What Spark Plugs Should I Use In My 1.8t? What If It Is Chipped?

A) Use only the OE stock plugs unless you have a big turbo setup. Use of other spark plugs will lead to engine issues.

OE Plugs: NGK PFR6Q - .032" gap

For Stock Cars - .032" gap:

NGK BKR6E/6962

Autolite 3923

Denso Iridium IK20
For Chiped Cars - .028" gap:

NGK BKR7E/4644 (formerly 6097)

Autolite 3922

Denso Iridium IK22

>Tightening torque 30Nm (22 ft-lb)
>Tightening torque for Coil Packs 7ft lbs

Q) What Kind Of Oil Should I Buy? What Weight?

A) List Of VW 502.00 Approved Oils

Any 502.0 spec oil VW 502.0 Oil Chart
FWIW the Valvoline 5w30 is not a 502 rated unless you buy the Synpower 5w30 which is 502/505 (according to the label). Also the popular GC 0w30 is not on there despite the 502 label because VW only regards a 5w30 with 502 or a 0w40 with 502 as suitable alternatives to the 5w40.

Q) Where Can I Find The Meanings Of The Different Fuse Numbers?

A) PDF For Passat Fuse Box:

Q) Is my Passat a B5 or a B5.5?

A) You can tell if your Passat is a B5 or B5.5 by the year it was made.

1997 - 2001.5 = B5

2001.5 - 2005.5 =B5.5

A B5 =

A B5.5 = passat back and front/gavinklincke/Avatarforpassatuk.jpg

Q) Where can I buy parts for my car?


Q) What Exhaust Setups Are There For My Car?
A) There are many options for exhaust on the 1.8t passat. Milltek, Neuspeed, and APR to name a few. You can also go to any muffler shop and have a custom cat back exhaust done for 3-400 or less. You can go on YouTube to see what all the different combinations and setups sound like. There is not much of a gain in terms of power from an exhaust, but there is a big weight savings, and the engine revs more freely.

Q) What Cold Air Intakes are there for my car?

A) Carbonio makes a cold air intake for the Passat, or you can do the COAM modification which is the more popular option on PW. There is also the K&N drop in filter which requires no modifications to your car unlike the Carbonio and COAM.

Q) Are there any hp/tq gains from a CAI?

A) This has been argued many times, some feel a CAI improves the power of the car, while others think that it just sucks in hot air. the decision is up to you, just know that either way, you are not going to gain very much power, the best effect of the air intake is that it makes the car sound better.

Q) Can I Lower My Car With Aftermarket Springs On Stock Shocks?

A) Yes, you can but the stock shocks are set up for the stock springs. the difference in settings will cause your car to handle poorly, and bottom out. It will also cause your shocks to blow out early. It is reccomended that you either buy sport shocks such as Bilstein sports, or go with a coilover system.

Q) How do I change my sparkplugs?


Q) How Do I Find A Boost Leak?


Q) How Do I fix My Glove Box From Rattling?


Q) How Do I Rebuild My Brake Calipers?


Q) How Do I Install A Short Shifter?


Q) How Do I Replace My Front Axle?


Q) How Do I Adjust My Clutch?


Q) How Do I Clean/Inspect/Replace My Valve Cover?


Q) How Do I Install A Turbo Timer?


Q) How Do I Install A Diverter Valve?


Q) How Do I Install Spark Plugs (Version II)


Q) How Do I Paint My Body Kit?


Q) How Do I Black Out (Joey Mod) My Headlights?


Q) How Do I Install/Replace My Intake Manifold?


Q) How Do I Plasti-Dip My Front Grill?


Q) How Do I Debadge My Car?


Q) How Do I Paint My Brake Calipers?


Q) How Do I Install A Boost Gauge?


Q) How Do I Fix My Sunroof From Closing/Opening By Itself?


Q) How Do I Make A StealthBox?


Q) How Do I Make A Gauge Pod?

A) and

Q) How Do I Hardwire My Radar Detector?


Q) How Do I Install A Denison IceLink Ipod Cable?


Q) How Do I Remove/Install My Clutch?


Q) How Do I Install Coilovers?


Q) How Do I Make An Amp Rack?


Q) How Do I Detail My Car?


Q) How Do I Repair My Curbed Wheel?


Q) How Do I Replace My Coolant Temperature Sensor?


Q) How Do I Use VAG-COM To Remote Operate The Windows?


Q) How Do I Get My Trunk To Automatically Pop Up By Itself As In The B6 Passat Models?


Q) When Should I Get My Timing Belt Done? What Other Work Should I Have Done At The Same Time?

A) The timing belt should be changed at 75-85k miles, not 105k miles as it says in the manual, this is due to early failure of the system causing a very expensive engine repair. Other parts that should be installed at the same time include:

•Timing Belt
•Updated Tensioner
•Tensioner Roller
•Idler Roller
•Water pump w/gasket & o-rings (Metal Impeller)
•Thermostat with O-ring
•A/C Belt
•P/S Belt
•Alternator Belt
•Camshaft seal
•Crankshaft seal

It is cheapest to buy these in a complete kit from any of the various places that sell them. Also don't forget to pick up some new G12 Coolant for the change.

Q) What Kind Of Coolant Should I Use In My Passat?

A) Only Use OEM VW G12 Coolant. Do Not Mix With Any Other type Of Coolant!

Q) What Kind Of Gas Should I Use In My Passat?

A) Use Only Premium 91 grade octane gasoline to avoid negative effects on the engine/performance of the vehicle.

Q) What Is SeaFoam, And How Do I Use It?


Q) How Do I Clean My MAF Sensor?


Q) How Do I Remove My Front Seats?


Q) How Do I Change My Timing Belt and Related Accessories?


Q) How Do I Make My Windows Go Up Or Down In One Touch?


Q) What Do I Do If My Heater Produces No Heat?


Q) How Do I Change The front Crank Seal?


Q) How Do I Convert My Single DIN To Double DIN?


Q) How Do I Install New Engine Mounts?


Q) How Do I Install HID's?


Q) How Do I Install Leveling Motors Into My b5.5 Headlights?


Q) How Do I Fix My Turn Signals If They Stop Working?


Q) What Do I Do If My Cruise Control Doesn't Work Anymore?


Q) How Do I Fix My Heated Seats?


Q) How Do I refinish My Steering Wheel?


Q) How Do I fix My Broken Door Locks?


Q) How Do I Replace My Battery Correctly?


Q) How Do I Refill My AeroBlade Windshield Wipers?


Q) How Do I Fix My Window If It Has Fallen Down Into The Door Or Won't Move?


Q) How Do I Fix My Broken Wood Interior Pieces?


Q) How Do I Fix My ICM?


Q) How Do I Fix My Center Console Armrest?


Q) How To Remove Headrests?


Q) How To Remove Door Handles?


Q) How To Replace Multi Function Switch?


Q) How Do I Maintain My AEB Engine's ICM?


Q) How Do I Fix My Tiptronic Shifter?


Q) How Do I Do The COAM Mod?


Q) How do I flush my transmission fluid on a manual transmission car?


I hope this thread helps clear up some of the confusion on PW, and multiple postings of the same questions by new members. If you see any mistakes or anything you think I should add, please let me know, I am sure there are things that I have missed, it is a lot of stuff to cover. :lol:

Thanks to Boostin20v and this thread on V-tex: for helping out with information, also

What Oil Filter Should I Use On My 1.8t? What brand/size?

227 Posts
Great write-up! One correction:
You list: 2002-2004 Passat: AMB

I have a 2002 with an AWM, which I understand is pretty standard. I'm not familiar with the AMB.

101 Posts
Great write up! Actually made me go "hmmmmm" in a couple spots, LOL! Gonna have to do some research/testing on my own B5 when I get back home from deployment...

I'm just itching to be Banned
13,872 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Great write-up! One correction:
You list: 2002-2004 Passat: AMB

I have a 2002 with an AWM, which I understand is pretty standard. I'm not familiar with the AMB.
I agree with you totally (my 02 is an AWM as well :lol:) however I don't see where you guys are seeing that. It looks like 02 has AWM from what I can see, anyone care to quote the area?

Keep the links and suggestions coming, the more info in there, the better! :thumbup:

817 Posts
however I don't see where you guys are seeing that. It looks like 02 has AWM from what I can see, anyone care to quote the area?

Keep the links and suggestions coming, the more info in there, the better! :thumbup:
US Market Volkswagen Passats
1997-1999 Passat: AEB
1999-2001 Passat: ATW
2001 Passat: AUG/AWM
2002-2004 Passat: AMB


Engine dimensions for OE engines:

Engine Code: AWM
Model Years: 2001-2005

8,200 Posts
Nice job.
-Oil Capacity: 4.6qt (4.35L)
is not true for AEB with the OE filter (3.8 qt). This could be a source of serious confusion. Please clarify. Otherwise, we'll post this up in the Information section.

Thanks for taking the trouble.
1 - 20 of 343 Posts