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Discussion Starter #21
Thanks for your responses. Im still on work i will be home for about 3h, then i will check and see what is happend from last night how much is the gap between pin and plate, how the belt is tight and report.
 

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If the car is still apart, just loosen the tension damper while holding the pre-tension lever. Rotate the pre-tension lever attached at the center stud slightly to get to 8-10mm, then tighten the nut again.
 
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Discussion Starter #23
So after i get home the tensioner get moved almost to 2-3mm ( get compressed), i removed front part again then rotate tensioner and moved to get 8 mm. Then assembly everything start an engine and drive 10 miles everything is perfect , belt i tight, no more leakage from water pump.
Only that this morning again i remove upper cover just to see the belt and wooow again its seems not tight enough. I dont know if that is ok ? After starting an engine and driving a few miles belt get tight by him self??
 

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The engine tends to stop on a compression stroke, the cams will stop at the same time. If the valves are open on the cam, the valve springs will exert pressure on the cam to turn and that can loosen one side of the belt. If the car is at 8-10mm, you are fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
So to finish this story,
I put my hydraulic pin to 6-7mm and now i understand how its works.
In the morning after car didnt drive one night , Its not pleasing to the eye to see that belt is not tight, but when somebody in car start the engine and you are looking to pin you will see that immediately he pop out on 6-7mm or measure that you have put.
Ps
tommorow im driving track day,so if the belt "survive" than its definitely good.
 
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