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Discussion Starter #1
Want to share my experience.
Just started doing for the first time timing belt on my passat b5.5 1.8t awt, alredy take down the front part.
I'm just curious is there something that i need to watch for .. anything that need to be checked when the front is down?
Im gona change timing belt, water pump, all tensioner,the rest of all belts and tensioners.
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if you "reset" your tensioner to double check, or went past the 6-8 mm threshold for any other reason, it must reset (compressed) VERY slowly or you will damage it. Do you have a Bentley? Whose tensioner are you using?
 

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Watch for p/s fluid leak from the connections at the front cooler. The stress of pulling the front forward (or off), tends to break the seal on the hardened rubber and it tends to leak afterwards. Be sure to replace the snub mount if it has not been done.
 
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Discussion Starter #4
Guys, thanks very much for responses.
No i dont have bentley manual, for now im still searching which "kit" ( belt, tensioners and water pump) is gonna be the best. By price and durability? Or maybe im gonna buy everything separetly?
Cchief now when im googling , i have found that there is "upgrade" to mechanical tensioner. So im trying figure it out what is that/ and what is better? Stay on oem hydraulic or go with mechanical?
PZ thanks for advice im gonna watch out for leak, and im forgot to mention that i have seen that my snub mount is in bad condition, so definitely it will be replaced.
 

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The mechanical tensioner is spring loaded and less likely to fail than the hydraulic one. There were not a ton of hydraulic failures, but I have seen several personally. I've used hydraulic for my own car but have a manual one on the built 2.0T block I have.
 

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Buy a quality kit. Do not go cheap. I bought an ebay special for our 03 1.8 wagon. Thought 300k on original motor and trans I would just go cheap and run it til it died. Nothing wrong with car just figured it would prob outlast car. Huge mistake. Less then 10k later she let go. Bearing in idler gave up. Catastrophic failure. This is one place you buy good parts. I just did the belt on our 03 2.8 and our 04 1.8. I used contitech pro series in both. The tensioner on the 1.8 was kinda a pain. I had to recompress it twice. It will compress with a c clamp just go slow like said above.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yes, definitely i would not go cheap.
Is this ok. When i align crankshaft marks , my cam shafts isnt 100% aligned, cam pulley mark is 2-3 mm to forward .. is that ok . Is there any tollerance alowed ?
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I assume that is the old timing belt? That is ok and within tolerances. Just make sure you have them aligned a little better when tensioning the new belt.
 
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On the last one I did what I did was Mark on the pulley and belt with a paint marker on both the cam gear and crank gear. I then removed old belt and cut it with a knife on the tensioner side gap. I then turned my new belt inside out and cogged the old belt onto it slowly creeping down it interlocking each tooth. Basically transferring the marks to the new belt exactly. I then put it on with the marks lining up with the marks on the pulley ensuring it was the same amount of teeth gap as before. I then tightened it up ECT and then re verified with the factory marks. With my crank mark dead on my cam mark was ever so slightly off almost like what you have pictured but maybe a touch less. If any of that makes sense.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Im planning to do similar way.
Will mark everything on crank and cam pulley, then put marks on old belt, then simply copy paste on new belt and try to allign all marks qith new belt.
I will update how is going.
 

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To easily install the belt at the proper tension, turn the crank back 1 tooth and install the belt. With the crank and cam at their marks, the tension required makes it difficult to install the belt. I mark the crank cog to the block, so I can confirm timing marks with the lower pulley and cover off the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Update:
Today start with removing all belts and tensioners, i forgot to mention why i have start with changing the belts.
Its not because high mileage or because belts years, it is because i have leakage of coolant/antifreeze. I saw coolant dripping over crank pulley then after some resarche only logical explanation was that water pump is failed.
And today i confirmed that.
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For now everything is going well i have put some marks over the camshaft and cranckshaft pulley , and put new water pump.
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If someone has something to add.Please be my guest.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Update: Yesterday just finished with belts.
Run engine and everything seems good.
Just have few questions.
How is that hydraulic tensioner works? Is it oil inside? Because when i get everything tight and remove securing plate for hydraulic pin, the pin only get out 5-6mm is that ok?
Because when i push with screwdriver roller tensioner up to let pin on hydraulic tensioner to move up "approximately" 10mm after some time that pin always get down on first measure of 5-6mm?( the engine is off)
Also how much timing belt need to be tight? When i look to belt between cam and water pump there is some shaking , is that ok or need to be really tight( when you loook to belt its like straight line, no "shaking", vibration )?
Hope that you understand my questions.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
So i found this in youtube:
About 38min he is talikng about tightening rolller tensioner, can someone tell if this is right procedure?
 

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There needs to be an 8mm gap between the hydraulic plunger and the tensioner plate on the larger pulley before you pull the retainer. The Bentley recommends inserting an 8mm drill bit in between the two when tensioning the belt. It is slow to rise, but it should be touching the plate once you release the retainer..

Proper tension is attained when you can twist the long run of the belt 90° with a little force. It's subjective, but you know it is too tight when the belt hums, moans or sings when running. There should be no slack or jump in the belt when running.
 

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with the engine off I have seen the valve springs/lifters move the exhaust cam to a "relaxed" position ,not enough to move crank shaft/pistons (because it is a 2:1 ratio)BUT enough over time to slowly compress hydraulic tensioner (like you would do/compress on a re-install) which immediately upon start up goes back to your original installation gap (8mm). Tensioner is a gas over oil mechanisim with a super small check valve metering hole,thus the reason for super slow compression on a re-install
 
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