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it wasn't the motor mount cables; there's no pinched place in the wires. that was initially a concern since this occurred right after an oil change, but it turned out to not be the case.

there were actually two problems, one hiding the other. the aux coolant pump relay WAS bad. I checked it, and the winding was shorted; then, I replaced it, and all the other codes went away except for one...

now I only have one code for a bad electronically-controlled thermostat. but then again, I'm just messing with some things I don't really understand. :)
Hi JayTheSnork,
I have identical problem that you had with the fuse,and I was wondering whether you still remember where is located aux. wather pump relay,and what is the number of relay??
thank you in advance
 

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Hi JayTheSnork,
I have identical problem that you had with the fuse,and I was wondering whether you still remember where is located aux. wather pump relay,and what is the number of relay??
thank you in advance
I'm not Jay, but...
The auxiliary water pump relay (J496) is on Bentley schematic 72/12. It doesn't say for sure, but I believe the relay is in the ECM box, along with the ECM power relay and the SAIP relay. The S282 fuse powers both the coil and load (water pump) of the relay, so you can unplug the relay and test for voltage on the relay connections with the fuse inserted or removed.
 

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Discussion Starter #45

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it is in the ECU box, next to the fuse that blows. have you pulled codes? it sounds like you may have the exact same problem I had, which ultimately required replacing the thermostat.

here's the DIY for t-stat replacement: DIY THERMOSTAT - The W8 forum - Page 1
Thank you for your prompt response, changed the fuses for now everything looks ok, but since you say that your fuse blown again,i want to know what will be next step,if my fuse blows again, which relay i need to replace, black (100) or gray (53),or do you think that t-stat cause the fuse to blown??
thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #47
that fuse powers several items - look at the schematic I posted from the Bentley manual earlier in this thread. I think I caused the relay to go bad by repeatedly replacing the fuse, but if I remember correctly, it was the gray one (53).

I ask again - have you pulled the codes?
 

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that fuse powers several items - look at the schematic I posted from the Bentley manual earlier in this thread. I think I caused the relay to go bad by repeatedly replacing the fuse, but if I remember correctly, it was the gray one (53).

I ask again - have you pulled the codes?
yes i have pulled the code,and after changing the fuse remains only p1294 and p0116...
first i will change the engine coolant temperature sensor 1 (p0116),than i will scan again and see...
thanks for the support man...:bowdown:
 

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I'll start this off with an apology to Tomvw - E30 wasn't ground, it is the supply line for those circuits. I didn't take the time to consider that the ECU grounds selected circuits to turn them on. S282 (10 amp) is the fuse in line with the source for those circuits.

last but not least, S282 is in the ECU box, hidden behind a couple of relays; if you weren't searching for it, you might not find it. I knew it had to either be on the relay panel under the dash, or in the ECU. I figured I'd rather do standing work first, so I investigated the ECU first. I knew I was looking for a 10 amp fuse...

hiding just behind the gray (53) and black (100) relay, you can see the little corner of it in red:


here's the fuse - didn't need to test continuity on it, as it was obviously blown.


new one inserted into place:


I flogged it a bunch this weekend, and couldn't get it to blow again. not sure what happened, but it appears to be resolved.
Hey Jay. I'm curious as to what that 10amp fuse was for. I am actually trying to figure out What the 40amp fuse is for. located right beside the one you had blown and replaced. I have been trying to diagnose my transmission limp mode issues ext. I finally Opened up the ECU box after checking off A LOT of other possible ideas. And what do you know, the 40amp fuse right next to the relays was blown. Do you know what that fuse is for? I have yet to put my vehicle back on ground to see if my Limp mode issues are fixed with just a blown fuse. Pretty lucking if that's what has been causing all this havoc.
 

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That 40A fuse is for the motor in the SAIP (secondary air injection pump). I doubt it supplies power to any circuits connected to the transmission but I'm sure someone more knowledgeable can confirm that.
 

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Thanks for confirming that fuse is for SAIP. Only took 2 more hours of searching all the forums after i posted that. So obviously After i replaced the blown 40amp fuse my vehicle did not magically run like nothing had ever happened.
The question I do have is that My secondary air supply SAIP might be shorting out or never engaging. Possibly it could be constantly going, However doubtful being It had a blown fuse. Do you think the SAIP system acting all out of wack, and probably for a good amount of time now. It might be messing with my ECU causing it to send out bad readings faulty codes. Thus the ECU could be potentially messing up the TCM readings with fuel/Oxygen ratios. My Transmission Is hard shifting/shaking or call it shuddering into second and third gears. I can maybe just place my foot on the gas pedal Accelerating at a rate of 4mph. if I don't do this is with just start revving the piss out the transmission bouncing back and forth, eventually going into Limp/Safe Mode.
However I can successfully get into fifth gear on the freeway avoiding engaging limp mode. But it takes some serious gas pedal work driving Hella GRANNY style SLOOOOOOOOOW.
 

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The SAIP pump comes on at initial startup when air temperature is between 39F and 90F. It is on for between 45 and 60 seconds. It supplys air to the combi valve, to promote the heating up of the cat. It may come on briefly again depending on readings. Once it cycles it may not come on again until engine cools down. The combi valve is vacuum controlled , it may be stuck open or not working. As to trans. ,fluid level check and a wiring and moisture exam at the TCM is in order.
 

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as to blown fuse, IMO when combi valve is stuck open moisture condenses in SAIP blower, bearings rust up,motor seizes, fuse blows. When operational within temp. range on initial start up you will hear it's "vacuum" motor sound, as I mentioned, you can check its operation by cautiously hot wiring at the motors leads/plug
 
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