Hey Tomvw! That's a good idea, and you reminded me that I did that as well. I am at a total loss with this thing. That was one of the first places I decided to start since the plugs and coils didnt work.You could try swapping injector #2 with one of the others, and see if the code follows.
I second this, its common for the coolant temp on the rear flange to throw misfires when bad especially when not at operating temp.I would check the wiring for the coolant temp sensor. I expect it is cracked and causing a bad reading, or the sensor itself has failed when being removed.
TI would check the wiring for the coolant temp sensor. I expect it is cracked and causing a bad reading, or the sensor itself has failed when being removed.
That's a good idea. I didn't think about checking it that way. I do have vcds lite. That should work though. Am I just looking for a temp reading? Every once in awhile my car tells me to stop because of a coolant issue even though it looks fine. Do you think that might be related to the cts?A bad sensor or bad sensor wiring won't throw an explicit code but if there misfires due to bad temp reading, they will be logged and could eventually throw a code. However, you can read the sensor output if you have VCDS and that is great way to see if it's working correctly.
Oh boy. I figured that stop was from the coolant tank, but I feel like you can never be to careful with these things Haha anyways! I will check it out once the rain stops here.There are 2 temp outputs from the CTS since there are 2 sensors. One output goes to the dash display and the other is the one that is sent to the ECM to control the fuel mixture. I'd check both but the one that matters is the one to the ECM. It will be a measurement block and you can find the details at the Ross-Tech website or elsewhere on the web.
As far as I know, the STOP message is from the sensor at the bottom of the coolant tank. I suppose it's possible that if the ECM thought the coolant temp was too high it might also trigger a stop message but I've never seen that and I had a 1.8t with a bad radiator that would peg the coolant temp on occasion if you weren't careful.
You know the worst part? I've been thinking that's the case this whole time. I truly hope not, but I am so unsure. It is such a weird issue to have, and I genuinely worry that might be the case. I hope it isn't, but to be honest I've had the feeling that was the issue for awhile, and I dont really want to pull the head off again to swap out a head gasket. That would be a serious pain in the ass. I am going to do a smoke test on it though. See if there's some leaks and also pull the harness out and look for some cracks in that as well. I can only go so far back before the firewall becomes a pain.Not to put a worse case scenario on the table, but there is a possibility that coolant is getting pushed into cylinder #2 as the vehicle cools down, which would cause a single cylinder misfire at startup due to the coolant being burned off in the cylinder on the compression stroke and well the car is running the coolant evaporates at a faster rate therefore it doesn’t effect the drivability once the vehicle has been running for a short while. There are several ways to find out if this is the case, but I found that the easiest way to check is after driving the vehicle, slowly and carefully let the pressure out of the coolant reservoir and once the car has cooled down, (preferably over night) start the vehicle and if you don’t get a misfire you are probably getting coolant into cylinder #2. I truly hope this isn’t your issue and it turns out to be bad wiring or a leaking fuel injector that is flooding the cylinder or one of the hundreds of things that could cause a single cylinder misfire. When you mentioned the coolant system this is the first thing that came to mind and just a thought for anyone replacing a coolant flange go billet aluminum You’ll thank yourself later. Best of luck!
