Hey guys, new member here from WI. I recently purchased a 2004 Passat fwd with an awm 1.8t and a zf5hp19fl transmission. I believe the VW/Audi code is 01V. Please correct me if I'm wrong. I purchased the car as is with an unknown trans issue, an unknown electrical issue, (ecu power issue, still to be completely resolved) and multiple vacuum leaks. The car had sat outside for at least six months and was started twice in that time. I paid vw an exorbitant amount to trace down the ecu power issue after I had exhausted my then available wiring schematics, only to have it come back within a couple days. The trans has a couple leaks and was therefore low on fluid when I bought it. The previous owner had mentioned a transmission issue in very vague terms, and it seemed to me that it was a slipping issue. That seemed even more evident when I finally managed to drive it a few miles. I wanted to go through the engine anyway, so it was a great excuse to pull the engine and trans. (I have forged rods, mahle pistons, head studs, XS Power ko4-based turbo, and plan on doing both timing chain and belt along with the normal gaskets, bearings and no doubt some machine work.) I'm currently in the process of pulling the engine and trans together, but I ran into a small but somewhat frustrating problem. How do you remove the round electrical plug going into the front of the trans? I goofed around with it a little, but I have no desire to replace it and therefore have no desire to break it. I've looked around online but am not having any success at finding an explanation.
The bolts seem to work better than studs in very high HP engines. Not sure why, maybe the studs were never fully seated on the engines that had lifted heads.
I think I'm a little too curious, last night I spent some time researching manual swaps. The only thing about that would be the wiring and coding aspect of it. I plan to purchase Maestro 7 software, so I'd have the programming software, but I'm not sure I'd like even the minimal bit of wiring I'd have to tackle. I really hate digging into factory wiring harnesses, tho it looks like I'll have to resolve the ecu power issue. I've already ordered the parts for the automatic, so I'll stick with it, but I probably would've pursued it a bit earlier. I'll be fine with an automatic if I can set it up to shift similar to a dsg, meaning the torque converter is locked in every gear with the possible exception of 1st. If I understand correctly, that's how they are supposed to drive anyhow. Anyone know for sure? Mine was messed up when I got it so I never knew what it was actually supposed to be doing.
I'm not trying to spend your money for you, but as long as you got the engine and trans out of the car now would be the time to do a swap. It's really not that hard. A number of members have done it. I would certainly do it.
Disclaimer: I assume no responsibility because you took my suggestion and spend more $$ than originally planned.
I'm not trying to spend your money for you, but as long as you got the engine and trans out of the car now would be the time to do a swap. It's really not that hard. A number of members have done it. I would certainly do it.
Disclaimer: I assume no responsibility because you took my suggestion and spend more $$ than originally planned.
😃😃 ya i know...... I do like a well programmed automatic or dual clutch, and I love manuals, but I already have the parts and I think for me and how ill drive, I'll likely enjoy an automatic more at this point.
Does anyone know what the closest piston to valve number is? I'm considering milling the block a touch more than needed just square it in an effort to bump compression a hair. Lazy as I am though, I don't feel like disassembling and reassembling the head and timing to find out.
Something I dug up in my archived notes. Think I might have gotten this info from Steve in Chicago. He had a pretty stout 1.8 build in his car. He's no longer around here though.
Hey guys, its been a couple weeks since I posted here. I've got the engine torn down and off at the machine shop getting honed, balanced, decked etc. In the meantime, anyone know of any oem style guages I could use? Mostly after boost and afr. Also, I might use a aftermarket electronic boost controller. Anyone have experience with making that work with the factory ecu? Planning to tune with Maestro 7, but not positive if it has the capability to delete the n75 valve. Any thoughts or suggestions of better places to look?
I don't know about AFR unless it's digital or something.
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