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I will add this though.
There have been a few members here in the past that have had the crank timing gear spin on them. I don't remember what the actual causes were that allowed that to happen.
Just trying to be as informative as possible.
 
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FWIW, all the 1.8t engines I've seen in my own cars and junkyards have used the polydrive bolts. All my cars have been B5.5 so I never check the older ones but with an 04, I'd guess polydrive.

For the crank bolt, it is probably $3 at your local VW dealer. At this point, why not just get a new one? Nothing looks better than a rebuilt engine with lots of shiny new parts.

This looks like a fun project. I thought about doing an engine rebuild but I don't think I'm going to get to it in this lifetime. Lots of other priorities popping up now but like Chance the Gardner, 'I like to watch'. :geek:
 

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Discussion Starter #23
FWIW, all the 1.8t engines I've seen in my own cars and junkyards have used the polydrive bolts. All my cars have been B5.5 so I never check the older ones but with an 04, I'd guess polydrive.

For the crank bolt, it is probably $3 at your local VW dealer. At this point, why not just get a new one? Nothing looks better than a rebuilt engine with lots of shiny new parts.

This looks like a fun project. I thought about doing an engine rebuild but I don't think I'm going to get to it in this lifetime. Lots of other priorities popping up now but like Chance the Gardner, 'I like to watch'. :geek:
Ya ill have to wait till my parts arrive to do too much cause I don't have the polydrive. I'm not real good with patience, but not much else I can do on the engine and trans. I'm still trying to figure out how to remove the oil cooler and the housing with the side pcv hose. It seems like the cooler must be off to remove the housing, but I'm not seeing how to remove the cooler. Perhaps something up on top of the filter? I have a Bentley manual, I suppose I should look in that, though I find that others explain thing better sometimes
 

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I will add this though.
There have been a few members here in the past that have had the crank timing gear spin on them. I don't remember what the actual causes were that allowed that to happen.
Just trying to be as informative as possible.
You need to use an OEM one and torque to spec. They are for all intents and purposes not able to be conventionally made/machined so they are a "sintered" casting ,with some obvious sharp corners which may develop cracks. When installing a new one you want to make sure surfaces are clean and burr free. I have a suspicion that the ones that do fail have been removed at some point and reinstalled under duress.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
You need to use an OEM one and torque to spec. They are for all intents and purposes not able to be conventionally made/machined so they are a "sintered" casting ,with some obvious sharp corners which may develop cracks. When installing a new one you want to make sure surfaces are clean and burr free. I have a suspicion that the ones that do fail have been removed at some point and reinstalled under duress.
So replace it eh? Thought about it but never ordered it. It was not a press fit nor was it tight. I slid it off by hand quite easily
 

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While the crank bolt it TTY, I would use at least an ARP bolt as a replacement as well as drill and pin the lower crank gear. Since you are building the motor, you might as well as protect that investment.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
While the crank bolt it TTY, I would use at least an ARP bolt as a replacement as well as drill and pin the lower crank gear. Since you are building the motor, you might as well as protect that investment.
Why drill and pin? Mine has a giant keyway in the crank and the key is cast into the gear. I do understand the idea of better safe than sorry, but I thought it looked quite secure. Certainly don't want it to spin on me tho
 

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The keyway is not made to hold the gear in place, it just lines up the gear. The pressure from the bolt is what holds it. On a stock engine I would not worry about it too much. On a performance engine, which I would expect to be driven harder, it's just cheap insurance. Since the motor is out, it's also very easy to do.
 
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Discussion Starter #33
Anyone know how to identify m10 vs m11 head bolts before removal? I ordered m10 then remembered some are apparently m11
 

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M10 bolts are for AUG & AWM engines.
M11 bolts are for AEB & ATW engines.
 

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If it were me doing a 'build', I would convert to the ARP head stud kit.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
If it were me doing a 'build', I would convert to the ARP head stud kit.
I thought I was getting studs. Apparently they changed the listing or I wasn't paying attention, cause I got m10 arp bolts. The build isn't crazy at all, but I hate doing things halfway. The problem is, Its spendy!
 

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The bolts seem to work better than studs in very high HP engines. Not sure why, maybe the studs were never fully seated on the engines that had lifted heads.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
The bolts seem to work better than studs in very high HP engines. Not sure why, maybe the studs were never fully seated on the engines that had lifted heads.
I'm told even stock bolts will be fine at 340 crank, but just like the rods, I want the insurance.
 

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Now that you say ARP bolts, those I have seen to be triple square, even for the 06A block.

102045
 
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