Ya ill have to wait till my parts arrive to do too much cause I don't have the polydrive. I'm not real good with patience, but not much else I can do on the engine and trans. I'm still trying to figure out how to remove the oil cooler and the housing with the side pcv hose. It seems like the cooler must be off to remove the housing, but I'm not seeing how to remove the cooler. Perhaps something up on top of the filter? I have a Bentley manual, I suppose I should look in that, though I find that others explain thing better sometimesFWIW, all the 1.8t engines I've seen in my own cars and junkyards have used the polydrive bolts. All my cars have been B5.5 so I never check the older ones but with an 04, I'd guess polydrive.
For the crank bolt, it is probably $3 at your local VW dealer. At this point, why not just get a new one? Nothing looks better than a rebuilt engine with lots of shiny new parts.
This looks like a fun project. I thought about doing an engine rebuild but I don't think I'm going to get to it in this lifetime. Lots of other priorities popping up now but like Chance the Gardner, 'I like to watch'.
You need to use an OEM one and torque to spec. They are for all intents and purposes not able to be conventionally made/machined so they are a "sintered" casting ,with some obvious sharp corners which may develop cracks. When installing a new one you want to make sure surfaces are clean and burr free. I have a suspicion that the ones that do fail have been removed at some point and reinstalled under duress.I will add this though.
There have been a few members here in the past that have had the crank timing gear spin on them. I don't remember what the actual causes were that allowed that to happen.
Just trying to be as informative as possible.
So replace it eh? Thought about it but never ordered it. It was not a press fit nor was it tight. I slid it off by hand quite easilyYou need to use an OEM one and torque to spec. They are for all intents and purposes not able to be conventionally made/machined so they are a "sintered" casting ,with some obvious sharp corners which may develop cracks. When installing a new one you want to make sure surfaces are clean and burr free. I have a suspicion that the ones that do fail have been removed at some point and reinstalled under duress.
Why drill and pin? Mine has a giant keyway in the crank and the key is cast into the gear. I do understand the idea of better safe than sorry, but I thought it looked quite secure. Certainly don't want it to spin on me thoWhile the crank bolt it TTY, I would use at least an ARP bolt as a replacement as well as drill and pin the lower crank gear. Since you are building the motor, you might as well as protect that investment.
I thought I was getting studs. Apparently they changed the listing or I wasn't paying attention, cause I got m10 arp bolts. The build isn't crazy at all, but I hate doing things halfway. The problem is, Its spendy!If it were me doing a 'build', I would convert to the ARP head stud kit.