Volkswagen Passat Forum banner

1 - 20 of 46 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, new member here from WI. I recently purchased a 2004 Passat fwd with an awm 1.8t and a zf5hp19fl transmission. I believe the VW/Audi code is 01V. Please correct me if I'm wrong. I purchased the car as is with an unknown trans issue, an unknown electrical issue, (ecu power issue, still to be completely resolved) and multiple vacuum leaks. The car had sat outside for at least six months and was started twice in that time. I paid vw an exorbitant amount to trace down the ecu power issue after I had exhausted my then available wiring schematics, only to have it come back within a couple days. The trans has a couple leaks and was therefore low on fluid when I bought it. The previous owner had mentioned a transmission issue in very vague terms, and it seemed to me that it was a slipping issue. That seemed even more evident when I finally managed to drive it a few miles. I wanted to go through the engine anyway, so it was a great excuse to pull the engine and trans. (I have forged rods, mahle pistons, head studs, XS Power ko4-based turbo, and plan on doing both timing chain and belt along with the normal gaskets, bearings and no doubt some machine work.) I'm currently in the process of pulling the engine and trans together, but I ran into a small but somewhat frustrating problem. How do you remove the round electrical plug going into the front of the trans? I goofed around with it a little, but I have no desire to replace it and therefore have no desire to break it. I've looked around online but am not having any success at finding an explanation.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,833 Posts
Correct. The connector has 2 little wings on it. Twist those and as it's twisting the connector should undo itself.
 
  • Like
Reactions: cchief22

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,833 Posts
What part of WI are you from?
I used to live in Waukesha County up until a couple of years ago.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Plug came apart fine, looks like one of the tabs is broken, but that doesn't affect the latching or seal. Got the drive train out and split the engine and trans, now I need to begin a parts ordering frenzy. Couldn't believe it when I saw a Mahle rebuild kit (bearings, piston assemblies w/rings, most of the main gaskets and orings) on eBay for about 250. Have that and some Chinese forged rods to go in, now i need to order timing, water pump, and head stuff for the engine, along with rebuild kit for trans, turbo, exhaust, etc. Its turning into the proverbial slippery slope😰🤔🤫🤷‍♂️😃


I'm from Eau Claire county, 20 miles east of Eau Claire.
20210105_213640.jpg
20210105_213708.jpg
20210105_213653.jpg
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,349 Posts
I think you have it backwards....the trans goes on the other side ;)

Nice work and best of luck with the rebuild. Keep us updated as it's always fun to watch someone else doing all that work.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
lowegian 😆

I've just spent an enormous amount of money on parts in the last week, I could give a detailed listing if you guys are interested. Around $1350 at Oregon Performance Transmission, (master rebuild kit w/steels, f clutch drum, torque converter, ats manual if I run into trouble) a little over $900 at Uro Tuning, (timing, water pump, timing chain as well as chain tensioner, front motor mount, oil pump w/ new tensioner, high flow cast exhaust manifold for stock location turbo, dipstick, SAI block off, and a few misc gaskets and seals) then over on ebay I bought a billet wheel ko4-based turbo from the guys at XS Power. Supposed to be good for 340 flywheel/300 wheel. Also bought head studs, valve guides and valve seals. I have the engine on the stand now and took the valve covers off, cams look good so far, haven't looked at journals yet but lobes are fine, what I'm running into now is trying to get the balancer bolt out. Is it reverse thread or what? I've tried forward and reverse and even broke out the 3/4 impact rated at over 1600 ft lbs. It didn't budge. Also, is it possible to use a traditional torx bit to remove head bolts? I'm obviously not reusing them and don't plan on using head bolts to go back together. Will a torx work or is it too risky? I have the vw tool ordered but it will be quite a while before it arrives.
 

·
Moderator/Administrator
Joined
·
24,880 Posts
Are you talking about the crank bolt at the front? That sucker is tight. It should be normal thread, left to loosen. Are you counter holding it with the dampener pulley or some other way? This method is creative. Its a Golf motor, but same concept. Crank Pulley Holding Fixture to Tighten Crank Bolt use whatever torque spec yours calls for, though.

And on the head bolts, no. You need the triple square bit. DO NOT skimp on that part of the build (or any of the mechanicals).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Are you talking about the crank bolt at the front? That sucker is tight. It should be normal thread, left to loosen. Are you counter holding it with the dampener pulley or some other way? This method is creative. Its a Golf motor, but same concept. Crank Pulley Holding Fixture to Tighten Crank Bolt use whatever torque spec yours calls for, though.

And on the head bolts, no. You need the triple square bit. DO NOT skimp on that part of the build (or any of the mechanicals).
Ya talking about the crank bolt. No kidding that thing is tight! Since its on the stand, there's not much room at the back and I have the flex plate off so I might need some sort of holding tool, certainly for retorquing it. Are there different types of head bolts? Mine look like a polydrive #10 and from what I can find, the triple squared stuff is a 12 spline. Maybe they use a combination? I haven't looked at all of the bolt heads but the ones I've seen look like the polydrive. Either way, I'm a tool sucker, so I have the polydrive ordered, but it won't be here for a while. Oh well, I've got ecu power issues to try and find in the meantime
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Also, the crank pulley and dampened are supposed to be separate correct? I took the four Allen's out but nothing wanted to come off and I didn't want to beat on anything without knowing it would come off
 

·
Moderator/Administrator
Joined
·
24,880 Posts
Well, I've seen head bolts in Poly and 12pt, so there's that. Make sure you have the right bolts for your block. IIRC, 06A and 058 bolts are different.

Yes, the pulley will come off after you remove the 4 hex screws. PB blaster and some gentle persuasion. Some have used heat, but you could ruin either or both the damper pulley rubber and crank seal that way.
 
  • Like
Reactions: ko4passat

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,833 Posts
The crank bolt is a normal right hand thread but it is stupid tight.
If you have access to a die grinder with this type of cut-off wheel it'll make easy work of that bolt.
This is what I did.
Cut right down the center of the bolt, as soon as the cut-off wheel touches the washer the bolt looses all of its holding power. You'll then be able to take out the bolt with a regular socket and ratchet with surprisingly little effort.

102042
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,833 Posts
For the damper pulley remove the Allen bolts in center of the pulley.
Spray the inside area around the crankshaft bolt with copious amount of rust penetrant, let it soak for a while, then gently tap around the face of the pulley at the outer diameter with a soft hammer or piece of soft wood. The pulley to crankshaft is a very close fit so it will take a small amount of patience.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Just used a bigger impact. Somewhat cringe since I hate being rough on engines, but it spun out easily and the cam gear came off quite easily. The damper I did a little side to side prying on and it came off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,833 Posts
Somewhat cringe since I hate being rough on engines
I hear that. The thought of putting an impact on the rotating assembly of an engine sends shivers down my spine.
As the impact is hammering away I can just feel the flat spots being generated on all the bearings. :oops:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Just used a bigger impact. Somewhat cringe since I hate being rough on engines, but it spun out easily and the cam gear came off quite easily. The damper I did a little side to side prying on and it came off.
Sorry I meant the crank timing gear came off quite easily. I haven't taken the cam gear off yet.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,833 Posts
Is it a torque to yield bolt?
I don't know if it's actually considered a torque to yield.
According to the Bentley manual it states to replace it after each use.
The specs are 90Nm (67 ft lbs) + 1/4 turn.

Me personally, I've reused the bolt on all but one of the engines (the one bolt I cut off) and I've never had any issues/problems.
When re-installing I torqued the bolt to 122Nm (90ft lbs).
Not saying it's the 'right' way, it's just what I have done and it's worked for me.

Having knowledge of mechanical properties of fasteners, a bolt that big is not going to stretch to the point where it's rendered useless.
All it has to do is hold the timing pulley in place. Not NASA type critical.
 
1 - 20 of 46 Posts
Top