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Discussion Starter #1
Wife's car (2003 V6 FWD auto) is suffering from a bad inner CV axle joint. Need to remove it so I can ship it to Marty at Raxles.
I've done enough front end refreshes I should know, but I don't, so I'll ask it.
Is it possible to just zip the Triple-Square bolts off the inner axle flange and the axle bolt from the wheel bearing end and slide the axle downwards and inwards (toward center of car) and remove the axle without taking the whole front corner apart?
 

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Mine is a manual but I believe it's the same. The book procedure is to detach the spindle carrier from there upper control arm. However this is not necessary. Zip those bolts off, remove the axle bolt, turn the steering hard right or left as appropriate, put a jack under the wheel and lift it up, you should be able to wiggle the axle out. It is a good idea to remove the ABS sensor to prevent damage, but if it's stuck leave it alone you'll probably destroy it if you try too hard.
 

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I've slept since I did one, but I seem to recall I could do it that way on one side but not the other. I usually just pop the upper arms as it's much harder going back in.
 

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I've slept since I did one, but I seem to recall I could do it that way on one side but not the other. I usually just pop the upper arms as it's much harder going back in.
I'm with PZ. I just did my driver's side last weekend and I could not do it without undoing the upper control arms no matter how hard I tried. Its been 2 years but think I did the passenger side easily with out removing those.

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Discussion Starter #6
Well, I just better allow myself more time to work. I was probably being (way) overly optimistic with my "yeah I can get all that done tomorrow" attitude anyways.
 

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Well I did mine without popping the control arms and without removing the heat shield. Like I said I did have to jack up the wheels and it took a fair amount of bending and wiggling to get the right angle. Maybe removing the control arms is the easier way especially if you have the pickle fork tool and they aren’t too stuck.
 

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Worst scenario is that you are unable to wriggle it out,then you do the upper control arms. Now the good news (by the way which side is it ?),as a matter of fact last September I removed both the axles (OEMs) off a '03 ,4mo. Auto.which I shipped to Marty for a "store credit" when I need new ones. Jacked up both sides, wheels off,zapped out bolts,removed inner shields, turned wheels to limit (the rub is I cannot remember which way) and with the suspension "hanging" you can just get them out, if I remember correctly, if not enough, by rotating the CV you can get just the little bit more needed to remove. I had said to myself ,if I cannot get them out there is no way I a going to deal with the upper control arms.......been there, done that here in the rust belt. Slowly, very slowly recalling that on the passenger side I turned wheel all the way to the right. Key is both sides jacked up allowing axles to spin to their "sweet spot" and with suspension hanging gives you that little bit more.
 

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I think that if you leave the suspension hanging then you need to remove the great shields and move the inner joint up. If you jack the suspension up you can move the inner joint down and leave the heat shields in place. There are multiple varieties 1.8t/v6,/5sp/auto/4motion so what works for one might not work for another....
 

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Absolutely. You can easily remove the outer CV from the wheel hub without taking apart the spindle. Done it a few times. Can't remember if you have to remove the inner CV bolts so you can move the shaft around so you can slide the outer out of the hub, but you'll be removing those anyway, but I think you can get it out of the hub before the inner. It's a squeeze but it comes out. (I'm in the process now removing mine as I'm starting that engine/trans pull (03 ATQ w/ dead #2 cyl--your pics/posts from other posts on whether someone had to lower the subframe to rmv the engine/trans are greatly appreciated--I see I don't).

I've had great success with the NEW (not remanufactured) Cardone's from Rockauto. Their about 40-50 bucks each w/ no core. I think I'm on my 2nd set at 339K. The original VW's outer boots tore at like 60k, and I've been going strong with the Cardone's ever since. It may only be the 1st set I've changed, but no more than the 2nd. Cheers, and I hope this is not too late from one die hard to another. You could then send the others out for spares if you wanted.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I've had great success with the NEW (not remanufactured) Cardone's from Rockauto. Their about 40-50 bucks each w/ no core. I think I'm on my 2nd set at 339K. The original VW's outer boots tore at like 60k, and I've been going strong with the Cardone's ever since. It may only be the 1st set I've changed, but no more than the 2nd. Cheers, and I hope this is not too late from one die hard to another. You could then send the others out for spares if you wanted.
The ones that are in the car now are Raxle axles from Marty. They're top notch axles, It's just for some reason the CV boot is ripped and spraying grease all over the bottom of the car.
I found a cheap Chinese axle to 'borrow' while the original Raxle goes down to Marty in Florida. It'll probably be about a 10 day ordeal from the time I ship it till the time I get it back.
My wife can't be without a car that long, so the cheapo Chinese axle will be used until I get the Raxle one back, or until I can get back to the car and work on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
When I went to buy the temporary axle yesterday, I found one at AutoZone for $40. Guy at AutoZone gave me a 20% discount. (y)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Welp, my beautifully laid out plans fell right through the floor.
My place of work is gated, gate code was changed. Was completely unaware of that. It worked a week ago. :unsure:
Security guard was off hiding somewhere. Waited for 1/2 hour at the security guard post. Nowhere in sight.
Postponed till next weekend. :(
 

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You might be able to remove the axle without touching the control arms. You can try to use a jack under the hub to raise it a little to allow more maneuverability.

I've removed both sides on my and my FIL's Passats. But both are 1.8 L and 1.9 L with manual transmissions though. For me, on my Passat it actually takes almost as long to remove the two belly pans as it does to remove the axles.
 

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This may be a bit late to help. You do not have to remove the control arm. Doing so will require a wheel alignment after replacement of the axle. Some one with a lift claim he replaced the axle without even removing the wheel! You do not need to get under the car at all if you remove the wheel. This is how I did mine on both axle:
1. Loosen the axle bolt with wheel on the ground after removing the center cap.
2. Remove the wheel.
3. Remover the heat shield above the inner CV joint.
4. Remove the inner CV joint bolts ( making sure the recess of the bolts are clean ).
5. Remove the previously loosen axle bolt.
6. Turn the steering wheel a little. If you are working on the passenger ( right ) side of the car, turn the wheel slightly to the left.
7. Push the inner axle to the front and up to the space available there. Then slide the axle out from the wheel side. There is enough space there to do this, you may have to turn the steering wheel a little or jack up the suspension a little to do this. Note that the axle is now bent at 90 degree or more at the outer CV when you slide it out.
 

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You don't need an alignment after disconnecting control arms.
 

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i just got my driver side axle back from Marty. Sent it out on Monday, got back the following Tuesday. Probably would have had it quicker if I had remembered to call him back once he had it ready to go.
If I recall correctly, I was able to replace both axles on my 1.8T FWD auto without disconnecting the control arms. The driver side was easy, but I had to remove the shield above the stub axle on the passenger side to get it out.
 

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I have a V6 automatic transmission and also done the driver's side a few years ago. Only thing I removed was the shield above the axle.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Finally finished, well temporally anyways. Got the Raxle axle out and put in a temporary cheapo replacement so we can still drive the car while I'm waiting for shipping both ways and Marty at Raxles fixes up the one I sent him.
Both cv boots ripped open on the drivers side axle. What a horrendous mess under there. There is grease everywhere.
I did run into a snag though. The cheapo axle from AutoZone that I bought ahead of time was the wrong one. Right part number, wrong axle. Back to the store I went and got the proper one, slipped 'er in and all is good.
Also, fixed that ultra annoying beeping warning sound for low oil pressure. Installed the 'new' pigtail end and it snaps onto the oil pressure sensor like it supposed to.
It's like driving a different car with out that blaring warning signal screaming at you all the time.
 
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