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Discussion Starter #1
I just joined this sight now, hoping to figure out my ABS issue, if anyone could help I would appreciate it. Have read several threads on this issue but not sure what to do next. I had this 03 4motion given to me so thought I would get it on road and get it to pass inspection. I just finished changing all fluids, gear boxes, transmission, engine, now trying to clear ABS light. I have an inexpensive VW scan tool that has worked good for my Jetta so that’s what I’m using. The scan tool gave me code for left front wheel sensor so I removed old one and took ohm meter to it and it showed open. I purchased a new one and replaced but still getting same code. What’s strange is the light will come on when I start car, if I turn off and restart it will clear. After doing all the fluid changes it returned when I started car for test drive. I checked with scan tool and got same LF code. Cleared code and drove around neighborhood (it’s not registered yet) and it stayed off for the half hour I was driving but I’m sure it will return just like before. Other than ABS module, any ideas? Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I did look in where wheel sensor goes and it’s a little rusty. Assume cleaning involves taking hub apart? Will look up procedure for that. This car sat for at least a year.
 

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I did look in where wheel sensor goes and it’s a little rusty. Assume cleaning involves taking hub apart? Will look up procedure for that. This car sat for at least a year.
I am not talking about the socket the WSS sits in. If you check out my thread, you will see photos of the tone ring.
if that ring is packed with shit, you will have intermittent issues.
I shot a lot of PB blaster into the tone ring from the sensor hole. I spun the hub around to make sure that it was fully covered. I used a small brush to keep trying to clean the ring and then used air to blow stuff out.
USE EYE PROTECTION and do not look into the hole when blasting it with air.

has the light returned or is it still off?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I am going out now to run around the hood again. Will let you know about light. Looking in at ring it only looks rusty, will try to spray cleaner in there, hopefully find wire brush small enough to fit in there. Will let you know. Thank you. Hopefully the new one comes back out easier than the old one did. I did put never seize in bore.
 

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Also, make sure the ring is intact. when you take a look in there again (when the sensor is out) spin the tire and make sure the ring is one piece and rotates.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Very weird. Like before, first started the light came on, turned off and restarted it went out. Drove around hood a few times, maybe mile and a half, found a couple spots of ice and snow, hit brake hard and ABS activated and light stayed off. Was happy until I parked in driveway and it came back on. Turned off and restarted and it’s out again. Would think if bad connection it would come on in this hood because it’s very bumpy. So back to square one.
 

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also maybe disconnect the huge connection to the abs module blow it clean with some air and reseat it?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
OK. The left one didn’t come out very easy. Hopefully I don’t damage the right one. Thanks. May try it tonight.
 

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I would remove the axle from the hub to properly clean the rust away.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hopefully that’s not to big a job. Will look up the procedure. Learning that VWs can be a pain in the ass, Jetta not to bad but this V6 is a different animal. Thanks for advice.
 

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You might as well spend $200 and do it right; Ross-Tech hardware and VCDS software. That should allow you to watch what the ABS sensors are doing while you drive the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The car isn’t worth it and I don’t do enough of this work to pay for it. Thanks for the info.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Took new LF speed sensor back out and it has scratches on the end so it’s actually touching, still have old one and it also shows same. Does anyone know what gap should be and how I would adjust it. Looks like these things just push in without any type of retainer just friction. This one came out easy because I put never seize on it when installing. Also it was recommended that I unplug ABS module and blow out which I did but connections where already very clean, no sign of any moisture ever getting in there. Thank you.
 

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There is no official setting and no retainer to stop it. It's push in until it touches and pull it out a hair. A little twist helps to pull it out just a bit. If you hear it hitting when you turn the tire by hand, it's too close. If the ABS actives just as you stop, it's probably too close, but it can do that if it's too far away too. Not the best design, since the rear sensors actually are held in at the perfect depth with a bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks PZ. You are correct about design. I wouldn’t want to free it up to much with never seize because I would think it could work its way out a bit from driving. I invented a little paddle the width of hole and put a strip of emery cloth over it and spun hub many times and cleaned surface rust off Anything to avoid taking hub apart. This car was given to me and it runs great so I changed all 5 fluids and trying to fix other stuff the guy butchered up and possibly register and run it but this ABS light is kicking my ass. I could care less about ABS but it makes it flunk inspection. Thanks for your advice.
 

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You might try an extendable magnet in the hole to pick up any rust dust. Put it in and turn the hub. Smart thinking on the paddle with emery cloth.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Will do. Blew 100 psi of air in there while spinning hub. I almost bolted down rotor and run car in gear and used my invention but thought better of it, with my luck I would have got wound up on hub.
 

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as a suggestion, while you are down there with wheel off I would follow the wire/cable up thru the fender, pull out the grommet and check the continuation connection, doubt if they have disconnected however with history unknown I would at least disconnect and clean
 
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