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01 1.8T AUG P0010 trouble with pin test, no start

4908 Views 10 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  tseefeldt42
01 Passat Wagon 2wd 1.8T AUG engine. Believe me I have searched this forum and others for help on this. Vehicle is throwing the P0010 code for the camshaft tensioner bank 1 blah blah. Test on tensioner came back at 12.7 ohms. Everything I've read says it's supposed to be between 10-18 so I'm assuming that electronically it's fine. I know that it can still be a mechanical issue with it but I don't have access to a VAGCOM to read what it's doing while trying to start. What I'm trying to do at this point is to test the wiring from the tensioner back to the ECM. Vehicle is supposed to be a 2001, production date is 5/00. Pulled wiring diagram for both and the conclusion is based off the diagrams that there are two wires running from the tensioner with no fuses, relay, etc between it and the ECM. Supposed to be pin # 82 & 90 on the ECM side. Tested these for continuity but got nothing. Came back and checked to make sure I was looking at the correct pins, went out and test again but this time tested all the pins. I am getting a connection with the plug side of the tensioner but it's coming back to pin # 118 & 121! Looked up 118 & 121 on the diagrams and found that they go back to the throttle body! Pulled the diagrams from a vw website that was listed on this forum and they. So I don't know where to go from here. I'm going to contact the dealer tomorrow to confirm what pins that info should be coming back to. At this point it looks like I'm probably either reading the diagram incorrectly but I would still like to confirm before replacing the camshaft tensioner that it's not just something between the part & the ECM. Color of the wires plugging into the tensioner are also not the colors listed on the diagram. I am confident that I am looking at the correct part located at the back right side of the engine, just FYI. Noob here but not a rookie, thanks for the help.
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I don't think your no start condition is related to the code. That code was likely stored before you wouldn't start. Any noise from the tensioner when the car used to run? Rattling? Clean the connector and try that before getting a new one, but I'd get it running first.
As ONE8T said.

Is it B5 or B5.5 (2001 or 2001.5) ?

16394 P0010 -A- Camshaft Pos. Actuator Circ. Bank 1 Malfunction
With plug disconnected, connect 12V briefly across the solenoid, if it clicks it is probably OK.
The fault is likely the connectors or wiring, possibly the ECU.
This fault doesn't prevent starting.

You need to get it scanned and post the codes.

Is it cranking and not starting, or not cranking ?
What work has been done recently ?
Did it stop while driving ?
Any other info on what has happened ?
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I too have the P0010 code and have checked over a few things - connections, traced the harness, etc but haven't gotten a chance to check the resistance of the solenoid or continuity of the wires (keep forgeting my multimeter at work). I did not find anything that seemed to be faulty. I have seen posts on here that says theres a relay and/or fuse for this issue that needs to be checked, but was never able to find any diagrams on the actual location of these. I do not have any chattering or rough running, just the check engine light and 'emissions workshop' displayed within the first 30 sec of driving. I was able to clear the code and the check engine light stayed off for the first drive. Started the car the next day and the engine light/'emissions workshop' returned. Due to this post being close to 6 months old, I am wondering if any remedy was found for the P0010 code that you had? I have a 2001 B5 with the AUG 1.8T engine.
Reference Bentley schematic 46/8:

The AUG shows a dedicated fuse for the "valve for camshaft adjustment" N205. It's fuse S131, which is probably in the ECM box (not in the main fuse box--they are S2xx). If that fuse were blown it would probably cause the code.

No amperage is given for S131, but the wires are 1.0mm[SUP]2[/SUP], about 16 AWG, so it's probably 10 amps. Interestingly, the corresponding fuse in the AWM is 15A, but the wires are (mostly) 1.5mm[SUP]2[/SUP], 14 AWG (Bentley Schematic 49/8). One wonders if they upsized S131 due to nuisance blowing?

The wires to the valve are:
  • Green/Violet from the fuse S131, which is fed from the ECM relay.
  • Green/Yellow from the ECM, pin 115. The ECM grounds this pin to energize the valve (it's pulse width modulated, not a continuous ground).

The green/violet wire should be hot whenever the ECM is powered. Fuse 29, in the main fuse box, is fed from the same contact on the ECM relay, so even unpowered, you should see continuity between the line side of fuse 29 and the green/violet wire, provided fuse S131 is good (which I'd guess it isn't).
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I was able to get inside the ECM box under the rain tray and check the fuse and relays. The fuse was ok visually. I pulled the relays and the 5A fuse and did not find any corrosion. Next thing I will be checking the power and continuity to the adjuster and applying 12V to the solenoid. Will keep you updated...
Check the fuse with a meter or test light.
Checked the continuity of the tensioner and the lowest ohm reading was around 500 - needs a new tensioner. Is that tensioner all one assy or can I just replace the solenoind on the outside?
Are you sure you checked the resistance correctly, 500 ohms would be a very unlikely reading across that coil.
You can replace the solenoid only. I don't know if you can buy a separate new one, but you could get one from a junk yard.
There is two terminal ends in the connection for the solenoid and I measured across them. If I had a little more time (which I will tonight when I go in to replace my CV axles), I will get a brand new connector (Detroit Diesel and ESPAR favor this type of connector) to plug into it just to be 100% sure that it wasn't just dirty terminal ends. The ohm reading was all over the place like a bad ABS sensor so that's why I am fairly certain the coil is junk. I will call around to see what I can find for just the solenoid. ***If anyone has an extra just 'laying around', I would love to take it off your hands!!***
Update - tested with a new connector and got the same reading. I will replace as soon as I can get ahold of one.
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