Where exactly is the PCV valve located in a 2002 1.8T AWM? Specifically! - Page 2

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Thread: Where exactly is the PCV valve located in a 2002 1.8T AWM? Specifically!

  1. #31
    Motel Room Moderator VAGguy's Avatar
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    It is pretty straight forward to replace that gasket. Plan an oil change around it. remove filter, undo the center nut holding the oil cooler on the filter tube, and shimmy it off. You may or may not need to undo the coolant lines. https://www.passatworld.com/forums/b...placement.html
    Glutton for Punishment: 16 A4 S-line Sport pkg Prem+, 04 Passat 1.8T GLS Variant Manual swapped, 2017 Q5 Prem+

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  3. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by VAGguy View Post
    undo the center nut holding the oil cooler on the filter tube
    Yes I noticed it's not difficult. But this center nut is apparently very large (27 mm). I don't have such big socket. First I'll try to remove it with a needle-nose vise. If unsuccessful then I go to HF and but a large socket just for this!

  4. #33
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    Today I discovered that I've never changed the PCV valve in my car. That big 3-way plastic valve it is. May be that's the reason for lack of power. Is there any test to see if the valve is alive? I think I'm gonna order it anyway.

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  6. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Emry View Post
    Yes I noticed it's not difficult. But this center nut is apparently very large (27 mm). I don't have such big socket. First I'll try to remove it with a needle-nose vise. If unsuccessful then I go to HF and but a large socket just for this!
    Definitely get the socket. The nut is very thin and you'll have a hard time getting it off without messing up something, and a harder time getting it tightened up correctly.

    Quote Originally Posted by Emry View Post
    Today I discovered that I've never changed the PCV valve in my car. That big 3-way plastic valve it is. May be that's the reason for lack of power. Is there any test to see if the valve is alive? I think I'm gonna order it anyway.
    Which valve is that?

  7. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by woodardhsd View Post
    Definitely get the socket. The nut is very thin and you'll have a hard time getting it off without messing up something, and a harder time getting it tightened up correctly.
    OK will get it. We spend so much on keeping these cars alive that one special tool here and there won't make any difference.

    Quote Originally Posted by woodardhsd View Post
    Which valve is that?
    I think they call it suction jet pump. It's a 3-way large and tall plastic valve. I found a complete PCV valve and hoses for $28 on Amazon and ordered it yesterday. I think I'm better off to replace most of these stuff once for all.

  8. #36
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    The suction jet pump isn't the PCV valve but I've used a 'kit' from Amazon that included a few check valves, the SJP, hoses and clamps, etc. The valves look good but I'm less certain about the quality of the hose. Still, it should last long enough and since there is such a mess of connections back there that it is a lot easier to just replace the lot than try to disconnect and replace the SJP by itself.

    Be careful when installing it since there will be lots of brittle plastic bits holding hoses down and other connections that can break if stressed.

  9. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Iowegian View Post
    The suction jet pump isn't the PCV valve
    So the mystry still carries on as what exactly is the PCV valve

    Quote Originally Posted by Iowegian View Post
    Be careful when installing it since there will be lots of brittle plastic bits holding hoses down and other connections that can break if stressed.
    With all those one-time clamps out there I think I am gonna have a hard time removing things easily. But as you suggested will be careful as much as needed. Worst case I'll use zip ties if those plastic bits break.

  10. #38
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    I would say the bleeder valve is the closest thing to a traditional PCV valve.

  11. #39
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    These are the PCV kit I bought from Amazon for a $28. I was under impression that the one shown with red arrow is the suction jet pump. But some refer to it as PCV valve. It's so darn confusing.

    pcv.jpg

  12. #40
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    The little valve on the right of the clamps is the actual Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve. The pancake valve is also part of the PCV system and probably should be changed. Depending on the year, it's either near the back of the valve cover or on the turbo intake hose, to the right of the airbox.

    The suction jet pump uses a venturi effect to increase vacuum to the power brakes. Here is a great writeup on it: https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...d-how-it-works
    cchief22 likes this.

  13. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by PZ View Post
    The suction jet pump uses a venturi effect to increase vacuum to the power brakes.
    I'm almost sure SJP is shot because it's been for a long time that my brakes are soft and not as they should be.
    If replacing SJP doesn't correct the lack of power for brakes then I'm thinking to replace the master cylinder which by itself is yet another journey to hell.

  14. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by PZ View Post
    The pancake valve is also part of the PCV system and probably should be changed.
    Went ahead and ordered that one too. Small cost but may make a difference. Shouldn't be hard to replace it.

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    I only replaced the SJP along with the hoses attached to it, basically the pile-o-parts on the left side in your picture.

    If you are planning to replace everything in the picture I'd plan on taking off the air intake and get the gaskets for that as well before starting.

  16. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Iowegian View Post
    I'd plan on taking off the air intake and get the gaskets for that as well before starting.
    Are you referring to intake manifold or something else?

  17. #45
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    I deleted the SJP on my car when it started leaking, no difference in braking, but the idle was smoother once the vacuum leak was fixed. The engine looks better without the extra hoses.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Emry View Post
    Are you referring to intake manifold or something else?
    yeah, my bad, I meant the intake manifold.

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    Quote Originally Posted by PZ View Post
    I deleted the SJP on my car when it started leaking, no difference in braking, but the idle was smoother once the vacuum leak was fixed. The engine looks better without the extra hoses.

    I might do that if/when I get around to installing the 034 PCV kit. Someday....

  20. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Iowegian View Post
    yeah, my bad, I meant the intake manifold.
    Is there a gasket for that? I tried to remove the manifold when I was cleaning the injectors but very quickly I gave up. Too many hoses are involved.

  21. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by PZ View Post
    I deleted the SJP on my car when it started leaking, no difference in braking
    But there is a 3-way check valve connected to SJP that if it goes bad a brake boost failure fault code is generated. I had that and when I replaced that check valve only the fault code went away although my soft brake was not resolved.

  22. #50
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    That's on later models that have the electric vacuum pump next to the p/s reservoir. Several of the early 1.8T engines did not have a SJP.

  23. #51
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    I have been trying to replace the PCV valves and tubes today. I was able to remove everything except one of clamps attached to the T connector hose. Spent hours and finally got so tried that had to give up for today. Even removed the manifold but still was not able to remove that damn one-time clamp.
    The major issue that the overlap point is behind and I cannot turn it toward me to pry it off.

    Anyone has any creative idea or tip as how I should proceed with this?
    Last edited by Emry; Today at 03:23 PM.

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