2002 B5.5 Oil Change

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  1. #1
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    2002 B5.5 Oil Change

    Hello again,

    I'm looking into doing my own oil changes. I've only done an oil change maybe once or twice, but I hear it's really simple. I found this website which has a video:

    Volkswagen Passat Oil Filter Change | Do It Yourself and Save

    From what I remember when I did an oil change in the paste, is that you're supposed to do a grease trick with the new filter. I think I remember putting oil around the rim of it and putting a bit on the inside.

    Any insight?

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  3. #2
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    That's right. Put a thin coat of fresh oil on the new filter.

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    Should I put any on the inside of the filter? Also, I hear B5.5s should get filters that allow more oil? Anyone have more info on this or a recommendation ?

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  6. #4
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    Pretty much any place you would order filters from would be the correct size, just make sure you use correct info while searching. I always put at least half a liter/quart in the filter before installing it, and also put a thin coat of oil on the gasket. It's likely a best bet to get filters from the dealer or online vendors such as ECS Tuning or German Auto Parts, etc. The Mann filter part number is 940/25.

  7. #5
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    First, always mention which engine you have: four cylinder (gasoline or diesel), or V6. Get the filter from your dealer, or order German filters such as MANN. Assuming that you have a 1.8T four, these are $6.60 each at autohausaz.com.

    The rubber sealing ring is the only thing to wipe a film of oil on. And don't over-tighten either, or you will have a serious removal job later. I just changed the oil on my Daughter's Audi 3.0, and whoever put the last filter on caused me an hour of grief. After ruining my filter removal tool, I had to punch through both sides of the filter can with a large screwdriver, then slip a piece of pipe over the handle to get enough leverage to remove that thing.

    I have a technique that freaks many people, but after draining the oil, I start and idle the engine a few seconds (four or five). This blows out most of the oil in the filter, which then drains out of the pan. Believe me, this eliminates the usually messy filter removal.

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    Interesting, Ylwagon! Never heard of that done before. I do have a 1.8T Four, sorry.

    So for the Mann filter, does that also require 4 quarts ? Is 4 always the number?

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    Quote Originally Posted by ylwagon View Post
    I have a technique that freaks many people, but after draining the oil, I start and idle the engine a few seconds (four or five). This blows out most of the oil in the filter, which then drains out of the pan. Believe me, this eliminates the usually messy filter removal.
    You pull the drain plug and then run the engine without oil for a few seconds to remove any oil left in the filter?

    To remove oil inside the filter after it's been removed place an object such as a zip tie, q-tip,etc. into the anti-drainback valve. This breaks the seal and allows trapped oil to pour out. I usually allow the filter to drain overnight before cutting it open for inspection.

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    Quote Originally Posted by brownsun View Post
    ...I hear B5.5s should get filters that allow more oil? Anyone have more info on this or a recommendation ?
    The Big Kahuna size oil filter will increase your capacity to over 5 quarts. Wix 51333 / Napa Gold 1333, Purolator L40316.

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    Quote Originally Posted by TurboJim View Post
    The Big Kahuna size oil filter will increase your capacity to over 5 quarts. Wix 51333 / Napa Gold 1333, Purolator L40316.
    Are there any benefits to this?

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    Quote Originally Posted by brownsun View Post
    Are there any benefits to this?
    Probably. Because of the way the engine is mounted in the Passat, the sump on the 1.8T is a little undersized. Overheats and over-stresses the oil, leading to sludge and coking. VW later revised the specified filter, taking the capacity to 4.5 or so. A little more (a bigger filter still) couldn't hurt.

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    Quote Originally Posted by scotts13 View Post
    Probably. Because of the way the engine is mounted in the Passat, the sump on the 1.8T is a little undersized. Overheats and over-stresses the oil, leading to sludge and coking. VW later revised the specified filter, taking the capacity to 4.5 or so. A little more (a bigger filter still) couldn't hurt.
    I see I see. Have you tried any of these: Wix 51333 / Napa Gold 1333, Purolator L40316.

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    What oil do you all use?

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    IIRC, the capacity on the 1.8t with filter is 4.25-4.3 quarts, or 4 liters. A tad more won't hurt, but if you're wanting more oil, go with the bigger one mentioned above. It's available at Napa and Pep Boys, at least generally.

  17. #15
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    Only use 502 VW approved oil. 5w 40 full synthetic. Castrol is one good brand

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    Ah, good thing I asked. As much as I hate walmart, they have an amazing deal on Mobil 1 High Mileage 10W-30 Full Synthetic Motor Oil, 5qt. Only 27 dollars, oddly. I'm always skeptical of that company, though.

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    Quote Originally Posted by TurboJim View Post
    You pull the drain plug and then run the engine without oil for a few seconds to remove any oil left in the filter?
    Yep, and it won't hurt a thing. See, this isn't running the engine "without oil", but breifly without oil pressure from the pump. All the cylinder walls and bearing surfaces are coated with oil, but if it makes you nervous, go with the plastic bag method, etc.

  20. #18
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    Mobil 1 does have a 502 approved oil if you like their oil I think walmart does carry it. Usually autozone or advance auto parts will have specials as well.
    That idea of running the engine without oil is crazy.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 2002GLXV6 View Post
    That idea of running the engine without oil is crazy.
    It's not for everyone, I'll agree. I flew light airplanes and worked on racing aircraft engines back in the day, and zero-G and inverted flight were some of the fun things to do; you always lost oil pressure for several seconds during zero G as the oil floated in the sump, and also if inverted, unless the airplane had a "dry sump" and a flexible oil pickup line in the remote oil tank. The engines were just fine. But like I said, it isn't for everyone.

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    Quote Originally Posted by brownsun View Post
    Ah, good thing I asked. As much as I hate walmart, they have an amazing deal on Mobil 1 High Mileage 10W-30 Full Synthetic Motor Oil, 5qt. Only 27 dollars, oddly. I'm always skeptical of that company, though.
    Not the right oil, actually. The only Mobil 1 that meets the VW 502.00 spec is their 0w40.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ylwagon View Post
    It's not for everyone, I'll agree. I flew light airplanes and worked on racing aircraft engines back in the day, and zero-G and inverted flight were some of the fun things to do; you always lost oil pressure for several seconds during zero G as the oil floated in the sump, and also if inverted, unless the airplane had a "dry sump" and a flexible oil pickup line in the remote oil tank. The engines were just fine. But like I said, it isn't for everyone.
    Did those light aircraft engines have turbochargers with floating bearings?

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    Quote Originally Posted by scotts13 View Post
    Did those light aircraft engines have turbochargers with floating bearings?
    The ones that I flew were all naturally-aspirated, so no turbos. And I'd not recommend stopping the oil flow on a plain-bearing turbo turning 100,000 RPM. Idle speed for a few seconds is a different story.

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    I was looking for 5-40, with not much luck, but the manual did say I could use 5-30, so that's what I ended up using. Engine has 188k miles, & not sure how well it was taken care of before. ended up using penzoil high mileage 5-30, had pretty good results when i used it on my SRT (that and Royal Purple).

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    Quote Originally Posted by SpeedFreak83 View Post
    I was looking for 5-40, with not much luck, but the manual did say I could use 5-30, so that's what I ended up using. Engine has 188k miles, & not sure how well it was taken care of before. ended up using penzoil high mileage 5-30, had pretty good results when i used it on my SRT (that and Royal Purple).
    Conventional motor oil isn't a great choice for your 1.8T. This is not an SRT, whatever that is (Southern Refrigerated Transport?)

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    Quote Originally Posted by scotts13 View Post
    Conventional motor oil isn't a great choice for your 1.8T. This is not an SRT, whatever that is (Southern Refrigerated Transport?)
    How would I know if full synthetic would be ok for a car with high mileage? Plus not knowing if the previous owners had used synthetic or god knows what kind of oil. My understanding its never a good thing to switch from synthetic to non-synthetic as such (or to keep going back & forth), to stick with one.

    SRT-4: Dodge Neon SRT-4? Lil 4-door that everyone likes to make fun of cause it's just a neon with a turbo motor.


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    Quote Originally Posted by SpeedFreak83 View Post
    I was looking for 5-40, with not much luck, but the manual did say I could use 5-30, so that's what I ended up using. Engine has 188k miles, & not sure how well it was taken care of before. ended up using penzoil high mileage 5-30, had pretty good results when i used it on my SRT (that and Royal Purple).
    Autozone will have both Castrol and Mobil1 in stock and usually has a 5quart deal with a filter. If you want to learn more than you ever wanted to know about oil here is the place http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/. Also Castrol has some info on synthetic oil http://www.castrol.com/castrol/gener...tentId=7007980. IMO there is no harm in changing over to synthetic oil from dino oil, but it does flow better so if you have old gaskets you may some leaks occur (valve cover) in failing gaskets. But, with the sludge that occurs in 1.8 motors from using dino oil I would use synthetic.

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    So would you say then the castrol synthetic is better than penzoil synthetic? I don't have a problem switching, & if no major gaskets leak then no big deal either.


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    Quote Originally Posted by SpeedFreak83 View Post
    How would I know if full synthetic would be ok for a car with high mileage? Plus not knowing if the previous owners had used synthetic or god knows what kind of oil. My understanding its never a good thing to switch from synthetic to non-synthetic as such (or to keep going back & forth), to stick with one.
    Old, old information that was never really true in the first place. And as noted, even if it does flow better through failing gaskets, that just means you need to fix those gaskets. Much better that than trying to deal with the damage conventional oil can initiate. Ask VW's warranty department; the initial failure to specify synthetic oil cost them millions.

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    I wouldn't say Castrol's better than Pennzoil Synthetic (assuming both are 5w40), or the other way around. So long as you see meets VW502 cert on the back of the bottle, you're good to go. You can use that 5w30 that's in there now, but I wouldn't go over 3k miles on it, and don't make a habit of using it. These cars need the oil that's been mentioned here already, though some have run 5w30 and changed it every 3k miles with no apparent harm.

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    Not a problem. As stated, I don't mind changing, & I always change oils at 3k regardless if it's synthetic or conventional. Coming from building & maintaining race bikes, oils was a huge thing as wear & breakdown is more extreme. I'll change the oil in the Passat sooner that 3k & look into full synthetic, then see if any leaks appear & take care of them accordingly. Only thing, it'll have to be 5-30, last time I looked, I didn't see any 5-40 on the shelves in this area.

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