Power washed the engine, all engine covers, belly pan and scrubbed the bugs off the front on my son's 2000 V6 wagon. Oil had filled the plug well and valve cover just below the oil fill and then it ran down the side of the engine. I also cleaned the dried coolant all over the tank and found out it was not cracked, just spilled like the oil. Tank was new last year, so the only coolant leak is the CTS seal. I noticed the RR caliper dragging but did not dig into it yet. It was too hot today. After the power wash I was drenched as the heat index was around 110 today (temp of 96-97). I did not feel well after only 2 hours on the car, so I took it easy and will get back to it in the morning. I still have to clean around the oil cooler as there is still a lot of oil there are on the hoses above it. I do have a new oil cooler seal to install. I only managed to change the fuel filter and checked the axles and wheels as he has a vibration on the highway. It will be hot again Friday and Saturday before it cools down Sunday. Much to do before he heads back at the end of the month.
Installed the ECS 'Street Shield' aluminum skid plate:
ECS Street Shield.pdf1208847F-6E22-45CA-BD43-19E3A685EECD_1560896593143.jpg
The quality of the skid plate is impressive, (it's almost a shame that its sole purpose is to hide underneath the car and get punished its entire life,) and ECS put together a nice installation kit to go along with it. Included were not only new 1/4-turn fasteners but the matching nutplates, along with a couple of Rivnuts and the installation tool. The only gripe I have is that I feel the skid plate, constructed of solid sheet aluminum of I'd estimate at least 1/8" thick and it's considerably heavier than the plastic belly pan it replaces. Obviously. I don't trust the OEM light-duty 1/4-turn fasteners to keep this thing secured to the underbody. The aft part of the plate is secured with some stout bolts, at least Grade 5 or better....but the front where it attaches to the lower valance and the fender liners is all 1/4-turns. I instead dug through my stuff and opted to use 1/4" bolts with matching nuts. Yeah it definitely won't be as convenient removing and reinstalling the pan for maintenance, but I'd rather be inconvenienced than have to experience the horror of watching that skid plate depart the car somewhere on the freeway at speed, becoming a flying guillotine....
Got the timing belt changed, after replacing the crankshaft timing belt cover ( broken ) and tapping out upper cover threads ( stripped ). Not as difficult as I anticipated. Now, if the oil leak was coming from the camshaft seals I should see no more oil spots on the driveway - and I can put the belly pan back on.
1) Repaired the broken jacking panel cover cap using some black RTV.
2) Used ample leather wax on all seats to rejuvenate and protect them again the sun beam.
3) Washed the rims with A2Z Wheel Cleaner and totally cleaned off the brake pads dust.
4) Applied some ATF on the black plastic rims around the car. It helps them maintain their color and last much longer than the commercial products.
5) Polished the foggy headlights.
Last edited by Emry; 06-22-2019 at 03:56 PM.
Was unable to remove rear ABS sensors from bearing carriers so had to remove rear bottom seat and unplug sensors. Removed emergency brake cables from calipers and pulled out of lower control arms and dropped subframe out. Removed subframe mounting bushings by cutting off upper rubber rings and driving out. Pressure washed subframe and removed rust scale from all parts.
Not "today", but.... a tie-down solution for OEM crossbars:
T-slot fasteners: https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/125/1990 (1 pack)
Eyebolts (need to cut to proper length, took a couple tries): https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/125/1590 (1 pack)
Washers (to keep the eyebolts from digging into the cross bars): https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/125/3338 (order 4)
Cut eyebolts to 'just long enough', paint in trim black. NOTE: I used the T-slot fasteners 'inverted', to improve clearance in the cross bars.
Slide into cross bars, tighten in appropriate position. Attach ratchet straps, and secure the load (for me, ladders.)
Changed the oil since is was almost time at 74,830 miles (I change it every 5k miles on the ODO). Cleaned up the old oil that always spills from the filter. Now I just need to find a technique so I don't spill next time. I've tried them all but can't quite seem to not spill some oil on the sub-frame.
On Sunday my son and I cleaned the bottom of the engine, installed new wipers,air filter, spark plugs, CTS and seal, changed the trans filter and tried to fill with fluid when my 2gl pump broke. The pickup tube disconnected and then the spray handle lever broke. Turned the bottle sideways to get the fluid started and used pliers on the spray handle lever. Put a couple of liters in and went to start the car, no dice. I think the "new" CTS sitting on the toolbox was actually an old CTS from my other son's car that I replaced a few months ago Battery was weak, so I stopped for the day to charge it. Back to it again on Tuesday
Changed the serpentine and A/C belts and the tensioner. No one in his right mind could ever explain why putting back the A/C belt must be so extremely hard other than the infamous twisted/retarded mind of German engineers . The only benefit I got from this job today is the invention of about several thousand new curse words/expressions against the German Engineers that will be patented and sent off to be included in the Collins dictionary to be used by the next generations of Passat DIYers.
Will drive it an watch to see if the new belts are working correctly. I cross my fingers they do or I'm screwed big time.
Last edited by Emry; 06-26-2019 at 06:40 AM. Reason: typos
Back to work on #3. Repaired the trans fluid pump, swapped the good (old) CTS back in, trashed the one that looked new. Had to pull the plugs and clean them, then disable the injectors and spin the engine multiple times. I even pulled the rear pan and checked that the fuel filter was installed in the right direction (it was). Re-checked all hoses and connectors. Even after that, it took a while to finally start, pumping out smoke and gas fumes. We could smell gas at the pipes when cranking. I guess the multiple tries just flooded the hell out of the engine. Once it started we put 6.5L of Maxlife in.
My son cleaned both windshields on his and then the front on the Tiguan. He also replaced the wipers on his car and the Golf. He then cleaned out and started to remove the center console for the B5.5 upgrade. Later I had him remove the RR wheel and caliper to see if we can find out why it was dragging. No blue on the rotor, pads look good and there is a little rust buildup where the pads slide. I'll have him clean that and put it back together. I expect we might have to change the caliper, but the parking brake does release properly.
The cabin filter arrived while we were working on the car, so I went to put it in and found the cover drain plugged. I used cutting pliers to open the drain to 3 times it's size. Then I pulled the bumper to start on the timing belt while he was working. The fan pulley tool broke as I tried to remove the fan and clutch. Jammed an allen key into the pulley/bracket and had to use a 2' extension on the wrench to finally break the clutch loose (yes I know it's reverse threaded). Then stripped 3 out of the 4 bolts holding the bracket to the engine. This car does not like me. I finally got the bolts out with 2 different internal bolt removers and one external bolt out. Luckily, I had a good replacement in the garage with only 60K on it and had already planned on changing it. Much better than this one with 242K. I hate to think about removing the crank pulley bolts Friday, but I have to get it inspected and registered Saturday. Once the timing belt and cam seals are replaced, we just need to get the wheels balanced.
Cam chain tensioner gasket, and rear coolant flange on my AWM.
Gee, that was fun. My arms look like I got in a fight with a feral cat.
Only had the parts for about 8-ish weeks.....
It's, ah, delicate work. Can require a helper (to keep the chain tensioner levered up off of the head.) Definitely requires a fine touch to swap the gaskets (particularly setting the half-moon into the head.)
Fiddly, but saves HOURS of work.
The only explanation is that the German engineers came up with this scam to create yet another high cost maintenance/repair money pit for the dealerships.
Why the engine wouldn't work w/o the half-moon crap?
Two, see below...
It's an artifact from line-boring the cam journals. Remember: The cams are in the head, not on the head. Therefore, the line bore needs to go thru the head.
No "half-moon seal" on the exhaust side, because that's part of the valve cover gasket. Can't do that on the intake side, though, because the cam chain tensioner straddles that bore hole. Hence, the rubber half-moon seal under the chain tensioner.
If I fire up my WayBack Machine... BMW M20 engine (used in E30 3-series) had half-moon seals - and, that because the tech to make them part of the valve cover gasket didn't exist then. Same for my Scirocco 16v - they're separate components, for no other reason than that It's Old.
Hell, as I recall, the VW 8v engine of yore had those very same plugs - just because there was no better way back then.
Just some examples:
"Other carmakers" "get away without them" by either making it part of the valve cover gasket (see also: the exhaust side of an AWM valve cover gasket), or having the valve cover follow the cutout (examples: VW ATQ (exhaust side), BMW N63.) Or by not having the bores at all - but, then the cams ride in a separate bearing strip, on top of the head. This has the side effect of making the head taller (e.g. BMW N52, N54.)
Like I said earlier, the intake side of the AWM and ATQ is a 'uniquely VW' setup, because the cam chain tensioner (which, BTW, is how VW did variable cam timing on those engines) straddles the end bore for the intake cam.
Because the tensioner needs to be precisely located, it needs to have a steel gasket, necessitating the bore plug to be a separate (rubber) bit.
Toyota had caps for the rear bores on the last Toyota VCG I changed. They even have individual gaskets for the bolts that hold the VC in place. And yes, they used sealant for the oil pan too.
Crank bolts on my son's Passat all came out easy. Of course, the V6 has 8 of them and they do not get cranked down. Cleaned the rust off of the rear brake slide only to find a frozen caliper when I tried to turn the piston in enough to easily slide over the pads.
Finished up the timing belt and buttoned up the front. Drained the oil, pulled the filter and found I did not have any filters in the garage. I knew I bought a case a while back, but I guess I used them between the 4 VWs (I still have 6 air filters left). The oil that came out was dirty, but not bad at all for 23K. I used the same M1 5W30 Annual again. Sent my son for a filter while I started swapping the caliper off the donor car. Go to start the car and get the flashing CEL. #4 plug wire would not click onto the plugs, felt a bit loose, but it was in place. Another AutoZone run for my son. We then did a brake bleed, but the Motive was leaking, so had to do it manually.
Installed a B5.5 console, as he was showered with coffee last year when it fell out of the pull-out mini cup holder. Also had to replace one taillight. Ran through the readiness so it should pass inspection in the AM before he heads back to Ohio. This will be the last timing belt for the car. I don't plan to change it and I am tired of working on it. It will last at least another 4-5 yrs and will be over 320K by then. I expect I will have to change the brake rotors and pads again in another year, rust is just starting to eat into them.
Last edited by PZ; 06-30-2019 at 10:33 PM.
On the bright side, giving your kids a Passat does mean you get to see them more often, right? Seriously though, I hope they appreciate having such useful, enjoyable cars to run around in and having the best Passat mechanic around at their disposal to keep them moving.
Installed my new tails
The older one only lives 3 hours away in Austin, so it's an easy drive for us. His car should be set for the next few years apart from a yearly oil change. My wife did mention to both of them that they should always live close so I can work on their cars. She has even asked me to delay finishing the younger one's car so he has to stay longer but he has a concert in Charleston, VW on July 3rd and 4th.
Not today but yesterday,
Was traveling back home to Phoenix from being in the Los Angeles area over the weekend when cruising the I-10 East at about 90+ mph, the STOP ENGINE no oil pressure warning came on. I pulled over and checked the oil, full up to the top and clean oil.
I've had this issue before, the last time I went over to the LA area I had the same problem.
Can't remember all of the details the last time, but this time it was pretty warm. Outside temp was 112 degrees, travelling at 90+mph with the A/C on, that engine was pretty warm. Temp gauge never went above 190 degrees though.
I think I might have a flaky sensor but I am wanting to install a mechanical pressure gauge to be sure of what's really going on.
JayTheSnork mentioned it could be am ABS module failure, I would have normally agreed with that but the ABS unit is one that had the repair done to it. For now I'm going to rule that out.
Last 140 miles of the trip home the warning message never appeared.
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