Passat B5 2000 crank no start

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  • 1 Post By scotts13
  • 1 Post By cchief22

Thread: Passat B5 2000 crank no start

  1. #1
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    Passat B5 2000 crank no start

    Hello everyone,

    My Passat (2.3L V5 automatic 2000) is acting up again and does not want to start. It cranks fine but will not start.

    Few weeks ago scanning the engine I got the following:
    3 Faults Found:
    00515 - Camshaft Position (Hall) Sensor (G40)
    30-10 - Open or Short to Plus - Intermittent
    00561 - Mixture Adaptation
    14-10 - Adaptation Limit (Add) Exceeded - Intermittent
    00553 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70)
    31-10 - Open or Short to Ground - Intermittent
    Readiness: 0000 1001
    But the car would start fine just sometimes had issues and would runn like a dog for a bit and then go normal again. However this morning it was not having any of it.
    And today after scanning I got the following:
    2 Faults Found:
    00515 - Camshaft Position (Hall) Sensor (G40)
    30-10 - Open or Short to Plus - Intermittent
    00553 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70)
    31-10 - Open or Short to Ground - Intermittent
    I cleared all of the errors again and tried starting the car but no success and no error codes popped back up.

    What do you think I should check first?

    Thank you

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  3. #2
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    Try unplugging the MAF. It will start up with an unplugged MAF, if the MAF was the reason it wasn't starting in the first place.

    I haven't had to deal with the camshaft position sensor yet, but I'm pretty sure you can use a multimeter to test the function of it.

    Lastly, it won't hurt to check the ECU relay. I had the same symptoms of crank, no start. Took forever to diagnose because I didn't think it'd be the relay, but using a paper clip to short the relay, it started fine.

  4. #3
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    have a good camshaft position sensor will post ohms( terminal to terminal) around noon tomorrow, suspect the CCT however

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  6. #4
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    Thanks for replies guys.
    MAF unplugged didn't help. I also checked for spark and it all seemed fine, nice bright spark. While checking that I could smell the fuel coming from the cylinders so I assume fuel is good too.
    I am fearing low compression or CCT being loose and skipping the chain
    But I assume faulty camshaft sensor could cause the wrong timing as well and non start.
    Last edited by Mariusmssj; 06-21-2019 at 11:11 AM.

  7. #5
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    If it's the camshaft sensor, it will eventually start with extended cranking. After (30 sec, IIRC) it will give up looking for a signal and start.
    cchief22 likes this.

  8. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by scotts13 View Post
    If it's the camshaft sensor, it will eventually start with extended cranking. After (30 sec, IIRC) it will give up looking for a signal and start.
    also the ECTS...so worth checking or changing it out anyways as its a 10 dollar part.

  9. #7
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    checking my good good crank sensor I got between pins/spades + and -- ,4.39 mega ohms ,and + and output (center pin/spade) 11.30 mega ohms, and 0 reading between center pin and ---.
    Mariusmssj likes this.

  10. #8
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    Cranking for that long can be bad can't it? I mean it could cause a bore wash plus battery wouldn't appreciate that

  11. #9
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    OK my readings:
    + and - = 8.88
    + and centre = 13.24
    Centre and = 0


    [EDIT]
    I did another test, I connected cable from battery + to sensor + pin and cable from battery - to sensor - pin and had multimeter -cable on the battery - and multimeter + cable on the centre pin and moved metal objects if front of the camshaft sensor and had no DC volt reading at all
    Last edited by Mariusmssj; 06-22-2019 at 04:28 AM.

  12. #10
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    I know there is a diode in the circuitry as no readings if multimeter is hooked up backward (positive test lead on ohm meter to - on sensor and vice versa for neg. lead)) doing the ohm measurements, not implying any mistakes on your part ,what I am getting at, is that depending on the sensor output being a "source" or "sinking" type, you may have to reverse the leads on the multimeter for your last test that you performed.....also since the sensor is driven by the ECM it might only be a 5 volt power source.......personally do not believe that the crankshaft sensor is the problem

  13. #11
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    Cchief that's a good point, I shall test with sensor plugged in to the ecu and just back-probe output pin, that should be a more accurate test.
    Last edited by Mariusmssj; 06-22-2019 at 11:06 PM.

  14. #12
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    [Update]

    Yes using 12V was a bad idea the sensor does indeed take 5V from the ECU.
    I plugged the sensor into the car and used a needle to probe the output(middle) pin and using multimeter negative on the ground on the engine while positive on the needle it showed 0.02V when nothing around and would up to 2.3V when moving a peace of metal in front of it. Most of other tests online and youtube showed that multimeter should read 5V and with metal near by the disruption of magnetic field should the drop the voltage to 0V.

  15. #13
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    another thing to consider is that, and this is my opinion and observation on my 1.8T ,that the ECM does not look at the camshaft sensor until after certain requirements/conditions are met whether it be a time, or temperature, O2 function,etc. I do assume though it is "powered" up at start up and signals are being sent just ignored in the program until other or programmed conditions are met.

  16. #14
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    So I installed the new cam sensor and it did not solve the issue but scanning the car before I found this code:
    00513 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28)
    03-00 - No Signal
    Now the interesting thing is about 2 years ago I had this exact issue of car cranking and not starting and it turned out to the crank/speed sensor. So I replaced it back then and everything worked fine until now. So i am somehow thinking that hopefully it's the speed sensor again.
    Last edited by Mariusmssj; 06-26-2019 at 06:38 AM.

  17. #15
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    well there you go, "Bob's your Uncle", check your connections first, was last sensor from OEM supplier?

  18. #16
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    Yes i replaced it with an OEM Bosch one but tbh I have had bad experiences with OEM parts on VW. And actually most after market Chinese parts have outlived their OEM counterparts on the passat. I shall do testing on the cables and get a replacement part as I found one on ebay for £12 hopefully it will be speed sensor that's at fault as the current symptoms are exactly what I had before!
    Last edited by Mariusmssj; 06-26-2019 at 09:10 AM.

  19. #17
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    have had good success with Bosch....even though they are made everywhere,keep us in the loop,curious to see the solution

  20. #18
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    Well it was not the speed sensor and after putting new one in tried to start it, something went bang and lots of smoke came from the engine. It was her time to go, 260,000 miles on the clock.
    I will do a quick autopsy and see what's caused it but I already got another car now. I'll keep you guys updated

  21. #19
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    might have very well been speed sensor, but were the cylinders possibly filled with gasoline from all the cranking ? ,then blew a head gasket......

  22. #20
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    Could have blown a ring, piston or crankcase from fuel buildup. Interested to see what it was.

  23. #21
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    Well this is interesting as when I tried to get the petrol out, I disconnected the starter and removed the fuel hoses from the rail and placed them in the fuel can and tried to start the car to get the fuel out and nothing, fuel pump did not work. I then connected cables from spare battery on pins 1 and 4 and nothing and did a resistance check at 200 omhs and got no reading.

    Is the fuel pump dead??????????

  24. #22
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    A healthy fuel pump should measure less than 10 ohms.

  25. #23
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    Fuel pump was a dud. So After finding out the fuel pump had died I tested compression and all cylinders came around 170PSI which was fine, so I got a second hand fuel pump and tested it which showed that the pump worked. So I put everything back together as I was stripping the car for parts, once I got everything back together I tried to start the car, sadly it didn't start BUT it really wanted to, it was almost firing/misfiring but not fully. Then I realised that I mixed up the ignition leads for cylinders 2 and 4 after correcting this mistake there was nothing as at all, car no longer was trying to start there were no misfires anymore making me think that timing chain has skipped and with wrong cylinder arrangement it was trying to fire up.

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