ccchief22, I checked the relay by the instructions below, something not right on one test so I swapped it with the horn relay which didn't make a difference. I happened to have a brand new oem ignition switch in my parts bin so I swapped it out. Below I try to show what I've done so far and hope it makes some sense to you.
Note the phrase "Check red/black wiring through T10d/4 to the starter."
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Following the "No Crank" troubleshooting guide that I linked in the original post.
To check the battery. [12.4 after 5 secs. I also had Autozone test the battery-passed]
While cranking or attempting to, measure the voltage between battery posts. (Not the connectors)
If the voltage drops below 9.5 volts within 5 seconds of cranking, the battery is under-charged or faulty. (If in doubt charge and retest)
Note: If the battery passes this test, that doesn’t guarantee it’s good, but it should crank the engine.
To check all ground connections in the starter circuit. [0.0v at valve cover and 0.0v at starter body-passed]
With the key in start position, measure the voltage with the positive probe on the starter body (make good connection) and the negative probe on the negative battery post (Not the connector).
If not less than 0.6 volts, there is a bad ground cable or connection.
Instead of connecting to the starter body you could connect to the valve cover, this would miss one place that is very unlikely to have a bad connection.
To check the starter positive circuit. [0.35v -passed]
With the key in start position, measure the voltage with the negative probe on the starter terminal 30 (where the large wire from battery connects) and the positive probe on the positive battery post (Not the connector).
If not less than 0.5 volts, there is a bad cable or connection.
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WARNING: Be aware that the engine could start at almost any time during these procedures, unless you disable as above.
With car in neutral, clutch depressed, and park brake applied. (Park if Auto)
1: Check terminal 50 (Small wire) on starter solenoid, with key turned to start position. [0.0v-passed]
If about 12V, repair or replace starter and/or solenoid.
If the solenoid activates, go to How to test a starter:
2: If not about 12V in test 1, check terminal 30 on ignition switch, [12.5v-passed]
if not about 12V check circuit through relay panel to battery.
3: If about 12V in test 2, check terminal 50 on ignition switch, [0.0v-failed] [I happened to have a new OEM Ignition switch on hand, replaced]
if not about 12V with key turned to start position, replace the ignition switch.
4: If voltage was not about 12V in test 1, and was about 12V in tests 2 & 3, check Inhibitor Relay 13 and associated wiring.
Note: If there is a relay in position 12, also check it and its associated wiring.
(When used, relay 12 is activated by the alarm system, and the contacts connect in series with relay 13 contacts.)
Checking the start inhibitor relay in position 13, and associated wiring.
With car in neutral and clutch depressed (Park if Auto).
If the relay clicks when the key is turned to start, the relay coil and its circuit are good, skip 1: & 2: [relay #13 clicks-pass]
1: Is there solid ground less than 0.5 ohm (don't check while voltage present) on terminal 85 (T9/6) ? [Skipped]
If no, check circuit from terminal 85 through switch on clutch pedal (on gear lever if auto) to ground. [Skipped]
2: With the key in start position, is there 12V on term 86 (T9/4) ? If no, check red/black wiring to ignition sw. [Skipped]
Relay plugged in, and everything connected.
3: With the key in start pos, is there 12V on term 30 (T9/2) ? If no, check red/black wiring to ignition switch. [11.96v - pass]
4: With the key in start pos, is there 12V on term 87 (T9/8) ? If yes, the relay is working. [0.0v - fail]
Check red/black wiring through T10d/4 to the starter.
Note: T10d is a 10 pin connector, (brown) on protective housing for control units, left in engine bay.
If the relay doesn't click and tests 1 & 2 pass, the relay coil is faulty.
If the relay clicks and passes test 3, but not test 4, the relay or its terminal contacts in the socket are faulty.
To check if you have a problem in relay 13 circuit, you could bypass it with a jumper across its contact pins 30 & 87. [car does not crank with jumper]
CAUTION: Don’t leave a jumper in relay 13 socket, the engine can be started in gear with the clutch out (Drive in autos).
If you have a relay in position 12, you can check it in a similar way, but the relay coil is controlled by the alarm system. [no Relay#13 in this car]
You could bypass relay 12 with a jumper across its contact pins, could be either 30 & 87 or 30 and 87a.
Normally:
Contacts: Terminal 30 (Common) is supply voltage, and 87 (N/O) is output.
Activating coil: Terminal 85 is coil ground and 86 is coil positive.
Sometimes the wiring is reversed in one or both sections. You may need to reverse those numbers.
The T9 numbers are for a 9 pin relay and should be correct for that relay.
NOTE: I can't guarantee that all this information applies to your vehicle, but you can't do any harm if you follow this carefully.
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How to test a starter: [replaced the starter with known good, brought the one I took out to AutoZone and it passed]
1: Put the car in neutral (Park, if Auto) and apply parking brake, switch ignition off.
Make sure battery is well charged and the terminals & all large ground points are clean & tight.
2: Remove connector (Small wire) from terminal 50, on the solenoid mounted on the starter.
3: Connect a wire from terminal 30 (Where large wire from battery connects), to terminal 50.
Don't fix this wire just briefly touch it on the terminals, if the engine cranks, the starter and solenoid are OK.
4: If the starter doesn't run properly, and the engine is not jammed/seized, remove and repair/replace the starter/solenoid.
If it does crank properly, check the ignition switch then go to: Checking the start inhibitor relay in position 13, and associated wiring.
(See: Not Cranking) Refer to the wiring diagram for your car.